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Everything posted by RC92234

  1. Although I'm not the one to say exactly what, things did change between '71 and '73 because of more stringent emissions controls enacted in '73. The heater hose valve I've been referencing is part of the EGR system and while no, don't care to keep it, I also don't know what can be removed so I'm doing my best to get it back to some sort of "factory configuration". As far as the gear clamps, etc., can only say this is the way I got it.
  2. Q #1, I answered it myself. I found this fitting in old photos that were of something else, but these hoses were lurking in the background. Answer is they are correct in the pointing down configuration.
  3. First photo: Left side of the double photo is the heater hoses attached to the engine, right side is the same hoses as attached to the firewall. Q: Do I have these hoses correct at the engine, or are they reversed? The temperature control valve seems to be pointing in the wrong direction (down) rather than up so the vacuum outlets would be above the hoses, not under as they are now. I have not changed these hoses, although they have been detached and then 3 months later re-attached at the engine end. They have not been detached from the firewall (under my watch, anyway). The hose on
  4. I ordered from CJP the "Distributor Vacuum Set" of hoses for the 351-C engine (four hoses). Lo and behold, it came with a diagram. Nope, it's not *all* the vacuum going on under the hood, but it is pretty close to my distributor configuration. I'm gonna give it a try.
  5. I was thinking it was ‘72 and ‘73 — thanks
  6. If I want to omit the solenoid at #5, then the middle hose from #1 will feed the single vacuum distributor advance directly. Is the #6 Spark Delay Valve still needed?
  7. Got started on swapping out the driver's side, bottom part of the seat today. As the photos attest, it was w-a-y outta whack and I figured replacing with a good donor was a better answer. PO had swapped driver/passenger seats and while that's a temporary solution, it just ain't right. '71 the seat release was in the middle so both front were equivalent, but '73 and I think '72 had the seat release lever outboard, and if you swap left and right seats, they're far inboard. (First image, from the top looking dowbn; Second image, from the bottom looking up)
  8. You said you used the door speakers, what speaker did you use?
  9. (Repost per the 3/10/21 msg the reports did not survive the conversion to new forum software)
  10. Going through and checking connections is a good exercise, and found the issue: the spare tire had somehow moved just enough to bump into the passenger rear tail light and push one of the connectors to nearly-not-touching. Surprised that would make the front lamp not work, but once I got the back lamp connections secured, all the lamps worked fine. Now about that spare tire: I think it's original. Firestone F78-14 Belted. Never been on the ground. Of course it's dried out, cracked and pretty much useless now, but hey -- "one from the vaults".
  11. I'm going to wager a guess it's toast because most are usually rusted out, but... How's the metal trim piece on the inside over the windshield that goes the full width?
  12. Tried the turn signals today. Driver's side blinks at what seems to me a very slow speed, but it does blink on the dash indicator and both driver's side front and rear fixtures. Passenger side does not -- at all. Dash indicator lights up solid, front lamp seems to be out, and of the two bulbs in the passenger side rear lamp, outboard is *far* brighter than inboard. It's a very, very old recollection but it seems I recall when one lamp was out in a blinking circuit, the circuit blinked faster. That is definitely not what's happening here. After I replace the front bulb and make s
  13. Crazily, after several very cool days and nights, once it warmed up back to normal for us (70s) I noticed a very small but steady puddle of gas growing on the ground under the front driver side near the wheel. Turns out, old fuel line hoses were just enough cracked that when it got warm and vapors started expanding in the tank, it created enough pressure to leak. So what I did was replace the fuel line hose -- it was "on the list" and I had the parts on hand.
  14. Here are the three pages from the Ford Shop Manual regarding extracting the front power window motor and gear assembly. This is showing the passenger side, but just mirror it for the driver's side. However, there have been many others down this path before and most have removed the assembly without the need to drill out holes to access the bolts. There are several threads.
  15. I used an adjustable clamp with the ends set to spread rather than squeeze.
  16. SMS said they'd be manufacturing a new roll of the 71-73 Comfortweave way back in March and I placed an order, but never heard back. When I inquired about a delivery date (a month later) I received a response it was being manufactured now, then when I inquired when that would be delivered, I received the response they'd receive a new roll in August. In September I wrote asking when I should expect delivery and have not heard back since. I just dropped them another note asking for an update but I'm not optimistic. Anyone else with experiences/thoughts/ideas? I don't want to have to but
  17. If you get to the point of splitting pairs of things: I need the Driver's side seat frame (I really only need the bottom, but whole frame is ok - you can remove all the old ulphostery to save on shipping weight). And if you split the front power motor pair, I need the passenger side.
  18. Thank you! I did not expect to be as entertained as I was. Great capture of that period.
  19. Sorry I'm late to this but I see you're breaking up the power windows. Do you still have the passenger door motor? Thanks
  20. Oh my gosh... I've l-o-n-g pursued a diagram to match my '73 Q-code 'vert w/automatic and a/c and have yet to find one that the diagram configuration matches what's already on the engine, so I created my own mashup of what I see in the manual and what I see under the hood. But yes: it's not just Q-code; automatic & a/c also change the configuration. Good luck!
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