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rocketmans2k

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach I Q Code w/toploader

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  • Location
    Houston, TX
  • Region
    South

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  1. I'm mostly concerned about wear over time, but I don't plan on driving the car a whole lot and not in hard braking conditions, so I think it will be ok. Thanks for the tip.
  2. After further troubleshooting, I removed the inside spacer as nailpounder suggested, and turned out the pushrod a few turns. I can now manually depress the switch with my fingers and get the lights on, but not with the pedal. The bushing seems to be hindering pushrod travel to engage the switch. I am hesitant to simply remove the bushing and have the rod eye flop around the pedal pin. Any suggestions? Edit: I took out the bushing and the lights work fine with light pedal pressure, so I think I'll leave it that way unless someone talks me out of it.
  3. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm doing it anyway. I have power at both switch contacts with the pedal resting (not depressed) and still no lights. New master/booster, new brake light switch and new turn signal switch. Turn signals work fine as do the hazard lights, pedal travel/feel is good. One thing to note is I am missing the outer nylon spacer that goes next to the cotter pin. The reman booster I got said it had an improved bushing/spacer, so I got the impression I didn't nee the outer spacer. Can someone help me understand how the switch works, because it doesn't seem to move at all when I depress the pedal by hand under the dash. Should I adjust the booster pushrod?
  4. ...and a Whoopee Cushion sounds like a fart, so that's an amusing problem you've got there. I wonder if Monty Python ever did a skit about a farting car? :D
  5. Thanks Don. I thought getting the car running was going to be the hard part. Now it's getting everything working properly so I can pass inspection.
  6. I have a similar problem. No voltage at either side of the fuse with rheostat full clockwise and switch pulled out to the first detent. All marker lights and tail lights working. Is this almost surely the switch if the fuse is good? Interior lights light up when rheostat is full CCW.
  7. I just went through some troubleshooting on my back-up lights. It was a weeklong process, but what I finally found was that power was not getting to the switch. I replaced the bulbs and switch first, then the fuse, cleaned the fuse clips, then started checking the wiring. According to the wiring diagram, there is a connector (C 501) behind the radio that brings power through the backup light circuit as well as radio lighting. I pulled the aftermarket radio that the PO had installed, and found that they had cut the White/Purple wire that powers the backup light switch to use it for power to the radio. Actually they cut the entire connector out. Dumbass PO! Anyway, I found the other end of the W/P wire and spliced them together. Backup lights work fine now!
  8. Thanks! I was going for something a little different, yet period-correct. These are American Racing Vectors like the General Lee wore. No offense to anyone here, but I get tired of seeing Cragars, slots, and Magnums all the time, and I'm not a fan of the new-style street rims in 18+ diameter on old cars.
  9. I put the hood and grille on this past weekend. She's 99% back together! All that's left are the rear valance that I can't seem to get a good finish on with the Dupli-Color, a couple of electrical issues (horn and brake lights), and chasing a leak or two. Then she's ready for safety inspection and a tag!
  10. Mine moved under it's own power today for the first time in at least 10 years, maybe more!
  11. Shout out to South Houston Hydraulic Hose for their fast, cheap, and elegant fix!
  12. This might be more difficult than I thought.... The new hose is definitely too long. It won't fit under my shock tower/cowl brace. Has anyone here had success neatly installing a 3A719-A replacement hose from any source?
  13. Thanks. The PS went on pretty well after a couple of test fittings. The DS I'm still not happy with so I'll probably tweak it when I get some help. I believe it was a bit messed up from a previous incident, based on some damage I found when I took it apart. Had extra shims too. I guess I'll see if I need them when I get the hood on.
  14. I guess that's a good point. I have many aftermarket parts on mine too, so it probably doesn't matter as long as the leak is fixed.
  15. Here's another pic of the two hoses side by side. Has anyone else experienced this mismatch with a 3A719-A hose? I PM'd Don at OMS, but have yet to get a reply on whether his hose is the same as the one I got from CJ or if I should just bend this one more to approximate the old hose. It's still too long though....
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