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rocketmans2k

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Everything posted by rocketmans2k

  1. I'm mostly concerned about wear over time, but I don't plan on driving the car a whole lot and not in hard braking conditions, so I think it will be ok. Thanks for the tip.
  2. After further troubleshooting, I removed the inside spacer as nailpounder suggested, and turned out the pushrod a few turns. I can now manually depress the switch with my fingers and get the lights on, but not with the pedal. The bushing seems to be hindering pushrod travel to engage the switch. I am hesitant to simply remove the bushing and have the rod eye flop around the pedal pin. Any suggestions? Edit: I took out the bushing and the lights work fine with light pedal pressure, so I think I'll leave it that way unless someone talks me out of it.
  3. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm doing it anyway. I have power at both switch contacts with the pedal resting (not depressed) and still no lights. New master/booster, new brake light switch and new turn signal switch. Turn signals work fine as do the hazard lights, pedal travel/feel is good. One thing to note is I am missing the outer nylon spacer that goes next to the cotter pin. The reman booster I got said it had an improved bushing/spacer, so I got the impression I didn't nee the outer spacer. Can someone help me understand how the switch works, because it doesn't seem to move at all when I depress the pedal by hand under the dash. Should I adjust the booster pushrod?
  4. ...and a Whoopee Cushion sounds like a fart, so that's an amusing problem you've got there. I wonder if Monty Python ever did a skit about a farting car? :D
  5. Thanks Don. I thought getting the car running was going to be the hard part. Now it's getting everything working properly so I can pass inspection.
  6. I have a similar problem. No voltage at either side of the fuse with rheostat full clockwise and switch pulled out to the first detent. All marker lights and tail lights working. Is this almost surely the switch if the fuse is good? Interior lights light up when rheostat is full CCW.
  7. I just went through some troubleshooting on my back-up lights. It was a weeklong process, but what I finally found was that power was not getting to the switch. I replaced the bulbs and switch first, then the fuse, cleaned the fuse clips, then started checking the wiring. According to the wiring diagram, there is a connector (C 501) behind the radio that brings power through the backup light circuit as well as radio lighting. I pulled the aftermarket radio that the PO had installed, and found that they had cut the White/Purple wire that powers the backup light switch to use it for power to the radio. Actually they cut the entire connector out. Dumbass PO! Anyway, I found the other end of the W/P wire and spliced them together. Backup lights work fine now!
  8. Thanks! I was going for something a little different, yet period-correct. These are American Racing Vectors like the General Lee wore. No offense to anyone here, but I get tired of seeing Cragars, slots, and Magnums all the time, and I'm not a fan of the new-style street rims in 18+ diameter on old cars.
  9. I put the hood and grille on this past weekend. She's 99% back together! All that's left are the rear valance that I can't seem to get a good finish on with the Dupli-Color, a couple of electrical issues (horn and brake lights), and chasing a leak or two. Then she's ready for safety inspection and a tag!
  10. Mine moved under it's own power today for the first time in at least 10 years, maybe more!
  11. Shout out to South Houston Hydraulic Hose for their fast, cheap, and elegant fix!
  12. This might be more difficult than I thought.... The new hose is definitely too long. It won't fit under my shock tower/cowl brace. Has anyone here had success neatly installing a 3A719-A replacement hose from any source?
  13. Thanks. The PS went on pretty well after a couple of test fittings. The DS I'm still not happy with so I'll probably tweak it when I get some help. I believe it was a bit messed up from a previous incident, based on some damage I found when I took it apart. Had extra shims too. I guess I'll see if I need them when I get the hood on.
  14. I guess that's a good point. I have many aftermarket parts on mine too, so it probably doesn't matter as long as the leak is fixed.
  15. Here's another pic of the two hoses side by side. Has anyone else experienced this mismatch with a 3A719-A hose? I PM'd Don at OMS, but have yet to get a reply on whether his hose is the same as the one I got from CJ or if I should just bend this one more to approximate the old hose. It's still too long though....
  16. Got the fenders on today. She's starting to look like a Mustang again!
  17. Thanks Don. We'll see if he responds here with some insight on his part vs mine.
  18. Hey guys, thought I'd post here instead of starting a new thread. I have a power steering pressure hose anomaly that I need help with. I just received a new 3A719 -A hose from CJ's, and it is incorrect for my '73 Q code (DoM 1/73). I've researched the threads here and checked available hoses from numerous vendors, and I can't locate one that has the same bends on the gearbox side as my original according to available pictures. The new hose is also about 2 inches too long, although that might be partially due to the bends. Any help locating the correct hose is very much appreciated! Bonus if you can find one with the bump to accommodate the alignment plate for the two tubes.
  19. I'll see if I can find a clean route on the driver's side that allows the temp sensor and choke leads to connect. I have the coil mounted to one of the intake bolts forward of the carb, so the harness might just stay where it is. I have none of the options listed for this feed, so I think its only purpose is the hood lamp, according to my diagram.
  20. Huh...Funny, I don't have power windows or rear window defrost. I'll check the under-dash side and see what's connected there if anything. Hemikiller, I have tried to lay it in numerous configurations and none of the holes seem to line up. The holes in the passenger brace are already taken by my coil/choke/temp harness. Your instruction and picture were very helpful though, and I found a couple spots I could anchor it to. Now it runs along side my gauge harness on the brace. Thanks for the quick responses!
  21. Thanks for the welcome from the other side of the world! Well the picture of the car is from the day I brought it home after its first and only wash. Yes, it's very much rust free. There was some cancer under the battery tray which was cut out by the body shop when they sprayed my engine bay. There are some minor holes in the trunk floor that can wait for a future resto, but the worst spots for these cars are very clean on this one (torque boxes, floorboards, rear quarters, etc.). You might also notice the driver's side front has a Cragar wheel while the other three are aluminum slots. There was some minor damage in the wheel well, suggesting a blown tire or fender bender at some point. Unfortunately, I have zero knowledge of the history of the car, but after inspecting it, I definitely scored big time! The odometer reads 96k, and based on the fact it had stock exhaust, stock harnesses/connectors, and the general condition of the interior (8/10), I truly believe 96k to be the correct mileage. I suppose it's possible that some PO restored it to stock condition 30+ years ago, but as I mentioned, the gunk in the gas tank had been there for quite some time and the interior, although aged, has not been redone. All that is to say that there wasn't really a proper "build" because the car was in such great shape when I got it. I have replaced the brakes and suspension, hoses, U-joints, and refurbished a number of engine bay components, but generally speaking it was stuff one would normally do with an old car of unknown history. I did put Wilwood drilled and slotted rotors on the front, with KYB shocks all around, and the aforementioned drive system and performance enhancements, but from the outside she's pretty stock looking. I have decided to put American Racing Vector (General Lee from Dukes of Hazzard) wheels on it with 275/60R15 and 225/70R15 Radial TAs. I also have a set of Lakewood traction bars that I may install later. I also refurbished the grille with some old parts and some new parts. I figure I'll drive it for a few months and see what else needs to be done. I'll post more pics once she's off the stands and has the fenders and hood on. My goal is to drive it in good weather, with a trip or two to the track just to see what she'll do. Side from that, just showing it off at meets and snapping heads in traffic.
  22. Hi all! New guy checking in from Houston. I have a '73 Mach I Q Code that I picked up on CL about a year and a half ago. It was missing an engine, but otherwise in excellent shape and intact. I believe the car is a survivor due to the lack of modifications and condition of the "fuel" that was left in the tank. I'm pretty sure it hasn't run in 20 years or more, but it has been living inside and somewhat taken care of. I've had 3 "Flatback" Mustangs, as well as a '69 Mach I and a '66 Coupe. I picked up this particular car because it was missing an engine and I happened to have a '70 351C 4V in pieces in my garage, so this gave me a good reason to build it after 30 years of toting it around like a boat anchor. I just knew that I would eventually find a worthy home for a vintage Cleveland with quench heads, and it finally plopped in my lap! I took the motor block and heads to Owens Racing Engines in Pearland, TX for a complete overhaul, including bore and stroke to 392 CI and full roller cam. I topped it off with an Edelbrock Performer Air Gap manifold and matching 650 carb. Spark comes from a Pertonix Flame Thrower III HEI coil and distributor, while the spent gasses go through a slick set of Sanderson Shorty headers. Accessory drive is from a CVF Racing serpentine belt drive and pulley set. Dyno runs at the engine shop put it at 434hp@5500 and 450ft/lb@4600. Not bad for a 49 year-old motor. The 4-speed Toploader that the car came with was taken to David Kee Toploaders in San Antonio for a complete rebuild. Man, does that guy know his Toploaders! The car is in the latter stages of build, with just a handful of things left to do before I turn the key for the first time. Thanks to all on this forum for the wealth of knowledge. I could not have gotten this far without you guys!
  23. Thanks for this info on the #2 pic. Mine hasn't been cut, but I can't find where it goes or where the loom anchors are supposed to connect. It's a good 5.5 feet long and has some kind of resistor or something on the end.
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