IstoT

Seems that GT sytle wheel is only max 15". And btw..I was planing to attach my Ford logo dog dish to gt style wheel (need to ask does it work on it)...I don't want GT text on Mach1..:). But I need to put this on ice cause I just bought those Mach5 wheels and I keep them a while...but some day..:)

Ok...good to know...looks good as painted same color as car. It was originally this way on some models ..if I remember right. Hope someone confirm 16" too... Edit: Seems that those can be get as 17" but not in 16" also there is GT version which can be attached those dog dish. I got loved these in first sight..:). So some day I will buy these..not sure is it 15" or 17". Now I have 17" American Racing Mach5 wheels and 17" is little hard on bad roads..:). 53 Series Ford GT Ralley

Howdy, I have original factory installed 14x6 steel wheels with wheel trim rings and hub caps and I like the look of them. But I don't want to go for 14" wheel so I would like to know does those hub caps from 14" wheel work on 15" or 16" wheels? I have found that those trims can be bought for 15" and 16" wheels.

Nice car..and nice sound too...:) -Isto

Yes..I have read somewhere that it needs that..so If plans is to have Ram Air and example MSD then MSD need to be lower one...little more expensive but would be better choice than make changes by your self..:)

Thx of more information...so seems that Air Gap (Edelbrock 7564?) is not bad if just thinking street use (one more choice)...I'm still thinking Performer. Good to know that Ram Air will fit because I'm planning to add it in future to my combination. It's easy to add...it's no matter if it will not give more horses..it will just make you feel good..:). I have also started to think that with better intake I could go to manual secondary because I have 3-speed manual (could be some day 4 - or 5-speed). But looking carburetors suggestions it will make less options...so honestly I have started to feel confused..:D. But..some day I will make decision..:).

Ok...so Is that 1.414 same on 2bbl heads and 4bbl carburetor? If so..570 is just on the spot...600 cfm is 424 cfm (close enough)...and even 670 cfm would not be real big (473 cfm) for calculated 406 cfm (351*5000*0,80/3456).

Rgr that..my search (example Holler carburetor calculator) also give me 500cfm and thats why I've been looking max 570-600 cfm 4bbl to Edelbrock intake. My car is stock and my plans are not making her any burnout car (3-speed manual with long rear). But funny thing is that those over 600 cfm carburetors seems to be cheaper..not much but they are...and used 4bbl carburetors are mostly over 600 cfm (are they chaining to smaller or bigger..who knows). Let me know what your thoughts are after first tests...my carburetor change will be prolly 1-2 months from this..but I like to look earlier things..part of the hobby..:).

Hmm..I should too...I'm sure that last owner didn't change that and he owned this car 22 years...so it could be real old...but still working..:D

Howdy, I loan this topic...I'm planning to get Edelbrock 2750 intake for my 351C 2bbl (3-speed manual) and of courser I need new carburetor too. I've been reading topics my eyes tired which is good and which is not. Someone say that too big is not good..so with that opinion I've been thinking 570 cfm or 600 cfm carburetor. But at 4bbl thread someone tell that Cleveland likes bigger carburetor than other engines so with that information would it be better look 650 cfm , 675 cfm or even 750 cfm carburetor? I have mostly looked Quick Fuel (Brawler os Slayer) or Holley carburetor with vacuum secondary but also manual secondary. Too many things to think and too many choices..would be "wonderfull" if there is only one carburetor what to think..:D -Isto

After running longer there is still that fuel smell after sometime..but can't see any leaks only what I can see is rippling air from those two "pipes" at top of Bowl cover..and it smells fuel. I prolly need to check carburetor one more time after I get new rebuild kit in few days. Before that I just drive...

Thx your info...this will be good explain..I changed last summer repair kit and it could be that I accidentally made something to fuel level. That fuel level can checked without removing carburetor. But now I need to find information to check that fuel level to right height. I have that 2100 manual and seems that there somekind of float gauge which I don't have. Is there any other way to check that level is right? Edit: Ok..now I understand why there was L-shape paper with numbers...didn't read the manual back then...so seems that I need to cut short end from 16 (351C) and then use this paper tool to check level...:) Edit2: After first engine run at parking place I didn't see or smelled any leak (I watched 20 min). But then I made test drive and after some time I was not sure anymore does it smell or doesn't it. I need to make another test tomorrow or so to be sure it helped. It looked promising but I'm not 100% sure.. Edit3: Today I warmed up engine at parking place and removed air filter to have better look for carb. After 20min..no leak or smell. I made test drive and after 10min nos smell. After 30min I made last check..there was little smell but..hey..this is old car and it smells little..so I can't say that there is any more leaks on carb. So thx help....also I learned lot of different options to use old intake and how this Autolite can be repaired..and what can be problems with it.

Just wondering..can Autolite 2150 type carburetor installed on 71 mustang? There is "weird" hose plug at top of plate. These can be bought very cheap from ebay...I know..you can't get good stuff cheap but this under 100$ price makes me think..

Well..that would be helpfull but if you can help me and check is this ebay item right to do this brass bushing fix then I will buy it and we don't need to send reamer via post. Throttle Shaft Bushing Repair Kit

Howdy, My good old original Autolite 2100 carburetor started to leak from throttle shaft. My plans for this problem are.. 1. fix leak with brass bushing (cheapest) 2. Buy new or used Autolite 2100 (or similar) (second cheapest) 3. If I could have money (which I don't) get example Edelbrox system to replace these I have looked carburetor from Rockauto (Autoline C862A or) but at RockAuto descriptions in Autoline C852 is that it's for manual trans and in the C862A is automatic trans. My carburetor model (D1OF-PA) is found at C862A extra info thought..so with that information I think C862A is right for me. But I like to be sure so is there any difference at Autolite 2100 carburetor between manual trans and automatic trans? Here is RockAuto info of those Autoline carburetors. AUTOLINE C862A {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Ford 2 Barrel Automatic trans.; Base Model; Grande; Mach 1; 2BBL; Engine VIN H; Cleveland built; F2-2100 AUTOLINE C852 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Ford 2 Barrel Manual trans.; Base Model; Grande; Mach 1; 2BBL; Engine VIN H; F2-2100; Windsor built Or is there other carburetor that will work at original manifold straight from packet?

I just looked old papers and found that I have every Swedish inspection tickets with odometer numbers from day 74/02/25 when it was finally registered to Sweden even it was imported 71/09 to Sweden. I'm planing to take out all of those numbers and make some kind of history of it...it would be better publish in garage here..I think. Car have driven about 139000 km (about 86370 miles)..only mileage which I don't know is how much US owner has driven this car in 1 year.

Thx for translation...I save this for my files. Somehow with things like that you can get connected to early owners..that Göran would be 94 now..if he ain't past away. -IstoT

Hope it works now..moved it to Youtube...

Hups.. Double post..remove this

Howdy, Finally today I manage to make 360 video of my Mach1..so here it is. It's not neighborhood beautist but it's almost at original condition and have Protection package which I haven't seen on any other Mach 1... [video=youtube]

For A.Nilsson (and othere Swedish readers)..here is first Swedish owner letter. I haven't time to translate this but some day I will..:)

I think this original part report is in real good condition..:)

Thx secluff, What I know this car is almost it's original condition...engine hood has been painted and last owner has been added that mid consol, switched the original clock to rpm gauge and if I remember right at 90's air cleaner and valve covers have changed by dealer. And with help of this forum I now know that this car have Protection Package which was not factory option for Mach 1 but first owner must have wanted. That package makes unique look for this Mach 1..:). We have wondered what are those big number sticks at firewall..?

Thx Nilsson, I bought this car from Sweden last summmer (2019) from old chap Sivert Rask who is owner of Raask Motor AB at Nissafors. Good chap and still at 71 year age he was making business and planing new exhausts for some Harley model..:). We were spending night at Gislaved in little hotel where F1 drivers were sleeped during 70's races..:). This car was bought 09/71 by Swedesh chap ..he owned it about 20 years..then some dealer (who spoiled painting by trying to polish it with machine) and then this Sivert bought it at 90's.

Howdy and thank you Jari, Yes I've joined FMOC at 2018 I have send messages at FMOC forums and facebook..you can find me with name IstoT. And I have found myself searching answers for my problems here because here is lot of information and people with deep knowledge of these 71-73 mustangs. -Isto