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IstoT

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Everything posted by IstoT

  1. Well..I agree..for me that one of one is just a joke....but I can say it is "one of one"...well only when yoking..:D. I hope you others haven't thought that I seriously think that my poor 3-speed manual Mach1 is something special..:D. Well..it's special cause it's so simple version that it has only power brakes but no air condition, no power steering etc..:).
  2. Howdy, Sorry for my late answer..:). This is what I ordered STAT-1 PERSONALIZED STATISTICS REPORT 1 $60.00 REP-2 REPORT - DELUXE 1 $46.00 So I think was not special report?
  3. Howdy, Thx all of you informations...:)...need them cause I'm just beginner with old cars (have had 35 years between 70's cars..my first one was Ford Taunus 1.7L 1970 and few other 70's..and now this lovely Mach 1) Glad to know that there is no need to get engine out so it will be manage able cost also here in Finland...I think parts will be 500-600 euros and labor other 300-400 euros so it could be around 800-1000 euros. Also cut overhauling in two parts would help me little..even I know it's not best way to do it. Glad that I have hole winter to make last decision what to do. But thx to all you now I know what to except. I rely like the idea to make work by myself but i'm 55 years old..never done overhauls like this..have no good tools and my yard is from sand (difficult to transfer gearbox backwards with lift jack). Hope I some day have better place or joined local group which will have place where do overhauling. I forgot that I have Shop manual as pdf. It's not well done..even I bought it from Mre-books so prolly I need to buy real book...both of them.
  4. Howdy, My 71's Mach 1 clutch shakes when releasing it (cold more than warm) and I'm thinking to change clutch and fly wheel. Also I need to repair my gearbox some day. I can't do it by myself because I have no place where to do it so I want to get information how big work it could be (= how expensive). 1. Can it be done without removing engine..ie. can gearbox removed underneath so clutch can changed under the car - If no need to remove engine then I don't need to make both repairs (clutch and gearbox) in same time because then work is not showing big part of the job 2. 48 year old car..is it best to think change that flywheel in same time when clutch disk is changed 3. what other parts is better change in same time I have googled a lot but haven't find any book for 3-speed manual gearbox overhaul...only for automatics and 4-speed manuals. If there is book for it I would like know where to get one..:). Any other advice is welcomed..
  5. Thx for your info..I found this Continental belt from Rock-Auto which have that original part number on info...:) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1333385&cc=1132692&jsn=996
  6. Howdy, I don't have spare belt for my Mustang so I like to know which belt is right or how long it should be. I only have alternator..no powersteering or other things...351 Cleveland 2V
  7. Just tested to bypass CB and it didn't helped...so seems that only thing is that turn signal switch. Can that be tested some how?
  8. well..it's easier to press button than buy new one..I think? And that was not the point..point was that can I use something other than "oem" part...
  9. Before doing anything I was searching 15 amp circuit brakers..:). What do you think..can I replace this original circuit breaker example with this..wires end need to be changed to circular connector manual reset circuit braker
  10. Howdy, Thank you for both of you..I thought that I'm a way beyond the right conclusion but I was almost there..:). I will test with clip and if it's working I buy from those links one..:).
  11. Howdy, Finally I got new flasher units and after changing new one for both (emergency and normal flasher) emergency flasher is still not working. I tested old emergency flasher for normal flasher and it was working too. Also I found that there is relay over the glow box..could that be broken or is this problem cause of bad turn signal switch..can I test that somehow? But here is short list what I have done.. 1. Changed / tested both flasher relays (both works) 2. When I press brake pedal forward flasher lights goes on and inside both flasher markers goes on (this is because stop lights and emergency flasher are on same circuit / relay brake light switch ignores emergency flasher relay). It could not be fuse problem because lights are going on. So do I need to buy new turn signal switch or can I try do something for it?
  12. One of it's kind..Heavy Duty Battery makes this Mach 1 unique..:)
  13. I found pdf where is all Cardon master cylinders and numbers and what number is same as other. Cardon Master Cylinder IDGuide From that pdf I found that 10-1378 and 13-1378 are same...later one is just replacement for first one.
  14. Ok..thx...it's weird that there is mention about that Bendix Casting incompatibility... :chin:
  15. Thx advice..that master cylinder looks exactly same as is mine. Gladly all bolts opened normaly..:). One more question pop on my mind after I looked more carefully of my booster....there is text Bendix 950. Does this change what master cylinder I need to choose or is it same which I choose..just take care that it is for front disc, rear drum and booster compatible? Example if there is text "Application Notes:Will not fit models with Bendix casting."..does it block this particular master cylinder from what I can choose? Model: Cardone 10-1378 Universal: No Make:FORD Model:MUSTANG Submodel:MACH I Beginning Year:1970 Ending Year:1972 Engine Type:V8 Engine Size:5.8L/351 Engine Family:Ford Cleveland Front Brake Type (application):Disc Rear Brake Type (application):Drum Application Notes:Will not fit models with Bendix casting. temporary image hosting
  16. Found finally information of right master cylinder..this is right one. CARDONE 10-1378 Remanufactured; With Reservoir Info Front Disc brakes; Rear Drum brakes; Power brakes; without Bendix Casting Also this could be use able CARDONE 13-1378 Remanufactured; With Reservoir
  17. Howdy, I had my car on fluid change one month a go where they changed brake fluids witch were very old (in my knowledge it was DOT 5.1). There was some moisture over the booster and it was rusty all ready but I didn't notice any leak back then. Now I have notice that master cylinder is leaking between master cylinder and booster. I found some thread where it was mention that if use DOT 5.1 break fluid this could cause the leak. Is that true and is it better flush brakes with DOT 4 before even try to buy new master cylinder? Or any other idea to get rid of this leak.
  18. So I need to figure out how I can attach shell back to it's place so it wont move out when pushing knob back in... :chin:
  19. Howdy, I have problem with passenger side fresh air vent cable. It works when I pull it but when I push it I need to hold on from the shell of the cable with my hand. Is there any good fix for this? Seems that there is no new cables on any shop available for 1971-73 model...well haven't find any. If someone know where to buy new one just give me a hint. Or does 1968 Mustang cable work with 1971 (those are available)?
  20. Sorry..need add my car specs to signature...was looking normal spacer..car is 351 Cleveland. My intake is in bad shape (could have some leak). I have intake from 1973..but ti looks little bigger job than I thought so I will enjpy car this summer and buy parts at winter and fix intake next spring.
  21. Only reason was that I had booked time for fluid changes to my car...fluid change was last week Wednesday...I was not sure did I get real gasket enough soon to that so I made own gasket. I got that gasket on Tuesday but was done this carburetor attachment on monday..because I was not sure do I get it to work (carburetor was leaking and that why I started whole process). I will add real gasket at my holiday...now I have some driving which I want to do. I also planned to buy carburetor rebuild kit. So when I made gasket switch I will service carburetor too. I will forget this spacer and think all over again if I will change intake and carburetor to better one.
  22. Howdy, I need to replace gasket (I have now my own made without that metal plate which is in original gasket) and there is no spacer between carburetor and intake. Is there any idea to get spacer between this original carburetor or is this thinking just a waist of time? And if it's good idea..where I can get spacer (haven't found). Here is picture of my own made gasket (first one in my life).. :D..and why I had to do it...48 years could do some miracle for intake.. Before gasket.. And here is starting point.. -Isto
  23. Howdy, An other thread I asked what this button purpose is and was told that it was for emergency flasher. My problem is that if I pull button..it will do nothing else than cancel normal flasher (that should be normal thing if emergency flasher is on?). So could it be that my emergency flasher relay is broken and I can find it somewhere above glove box? I found another thread that right relay would be 552 flasher..is that correct and should I replace normal flasher relay at same time to same flasher when I change this? If that 552 is correct is this ok part? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1385703&cc=1132692&jsn=1951 Is there somewhere information how I can remove glove box? Thx, -Iku
  24. Ok..thx again. I need to test does that switch turn the hazard warning signal on. Previous owner told me that there was a clock and I think he was who switched it from clock to tachometer. Also this car has been sold with smaller middle console. I have both, original clock and smaller console. It's good to know that this car has those external safety things...and that they rely work in real situation.
  25. Howdy, I thought I edit this thread cause I have better knowledge of this car history after reading all papers. Model: 1971 Ford Mustang Mach 1 351 2v. 3 speed manual, manual steering, no air condition. Car was bought by Hull-Dobbs Co (131 Miller St Winston Salem). It shipped from Dearborn factory to Ed Flandro Ins Pocatello (don't know real owner) 1970/9/23. Görän Z bought car from USA and it was imported to Sweden 1971/9/23. Görän managed to make registering inspection at 1974/02/25. Görän owned car about 18 years. Tommy H bought car 1989/05/26 from Görän. Tommy owned car about 3 years. Gert K bought car 1992/12/5 from Tommy. Gert painted hood and win some cups with from car shows (see picture of his sales ad from 1996). As you can from that salea ad car is "matching" numbers but cause it's not rare Mustang it means nothing. Gert owned car about 4 years. Sivert R bought car 1996/11/12 from Gert. What I know he didn't do anything for the car..only necessary services and driving. Sivert owned car 23 years. I bought car 2019/5/30 from Sivert and imported it to Finland. I manage to register car for Finland 3.6.2019 and get final license plate after I payed taxes at 2019/8/12. Car has been driven at Sweden and Finland about 140000km (about 87000 miles). I don't know how many miles it has been driven at USA in that 1 year. Here is link for walk a round video https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-walk-around-of-my-71-mach-1 pix image Old text hided but I thought if someone want to see my first thoughts about car I left old text. Best regards, Isto
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