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Mach

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Mach last won the day on November 22 2014

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About Mach

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    '72 Fastback (Mach Badging)
    '06 Coupe (Mach Tribute)

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  • Location
    Columbia, Mo.
  • Region
    Not Selected

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Undisclosed

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  1. Any chance of splitting the set? I am only looking for the front bumper. When my motor was dropped in after rebuild, my bumper got scratched by the tranny. CJ has them for $105 shipped, but thought I would ask... John
  2. Guys, You will have to be patient with me. I am in Sales and it is end of month, end of quarter. The week following Thanksgiving, I am on Vacation for a week so will have time to get everything boxed up and will have shipping prices. Please make sure that you have sent me your full ship to address so I can prepare the shipping labels. I would appreciate it if you would send me a quick email with your name and address, including phone number, and what parts you wanted to make sure I get everybody straight. Again, my email is mach@hughes.net and I also have a PayPal account with that as well to make payment easier. Thanks, John
  3. They are high priced...whatever shipping cost is to your address from Columbia, Mo. Does that seem fair? :D Update...Center Mini Console and Brake Fluid cover spoken for! and Tail lights, battery cable, brake cover, mini console,... Ok guys, I think most all is spoken for...thanks for playing! :D Rocket366, I tried to reply to your PM but it said you had response disabled. All parts have now been spoken for...sorry man...
  4. Hey Guys, Cleaning garage. Got some old, broken, and dirty stuff. Email me if you're interested. Price... cheap if any price at all. Just hate to throw stuff away that one of my brothers could use... Need $10 for Gauge pod. All other flexible. Gotta pay shipping of course but should not be much. If nobody wants it, it is going in the dumpster... email me at mach@hughes.net or txt to 573-808-5903 Thanks, John or just post here. That works too.. Parts are FLYING off the table! Gone now are water shields, chrome hood/fender edge trim, door mirror, marker lights and bezels.
  5. Has anybody else done one of these for their cars at shows? People ask me what I have done on the car and I say...uhhh go read the sheet...:D Mustang Mach 1 Data sheet.pdf
  6. Gentlemen, I am getting really close to my goals on mine. I just finished with a new 351C block bored 30 over, flat head pistons, new cam, polished, balanced, new carb, new fuel pump, new oil pan, new this new that...then add a freshly rebuild and beefed up AOD transmission then move to drivetrain for the new Detroit Locker Posi rear end and 4:30 gears. After 7 months in shop with motor /tranny out of her, now she is back on the road and went to first show last weekend 90 miles away and ran like a top! Over the past 3 years have replaced all the interior and suspension (you all may remember) and now all that is left is some minor body work and new paint... Yes, I am completely upside down in this car...and yes love the damn thing...:D
  7. My personal experience was with damplifier and Spectrum. Amazing stuff. I did everything from the Firewall back to the rear tail lights with two/three coat of Spectrum and used Damplifier on the big metal areas. I used standard Damplifier and seemed to work well. Make sure to roll it down good. Shown in first pic. The Spectrum in the first pic is still wet and it dried from a nice ford blue to nearly a black. The more coats, the more vibration reduction. SUPER easy to coat and spray and cleans up with soap and water. As you can see, you can shoot it up in nooks and crannies to get as much coverage as possible. I just covered everything with it. You do need to either tape off threaded holes (like seats/seatbelts) or be prepared to retap them. http://store.secondskinaudio.com/ I run a 12" sub with 800 Watt class D. NO VIBRATION WHAT SO EVER. The only thing that vibrates is my rear spoiler on the trunk...LOL Your mileage may vary... :D Here are some pics:
  8. It is not what I would do. I opted for cutting the doors and found is not that hard. I would think mods under the dash would be MUCH more intrusive/difficult. Then again, if it is not viewable, it would not be a bad thing. I had a 6x9 hanging under my dash in my 72 when I was in HS. People kicked it all the time and finally I just took it out.
  9. Don, Thanks for the reply. It seems that my new regulator I got from CJ's is a bit different than the Wells unit that was in the car. On the new one, pins 1 and 4 are externally shorted (as shown in picture) and seems that pin 2 is not connected to anything. My old one has some different readings also as shown in pics. As to the fusable link, it appears ok down to the place it goes into the harness but I don't know what it is supposed to read or when the other end runs to... I suppose I will try to order another harness and try it. Here is what my alternator / regulator harness looks like now where it plugs into the regulator. I think it may have been changed and "modified" by previous owners so don't know if colors are right or what needs to go to what actually... You can see the yellow fused link and where it runs into the other harness.
  10. CJ Pony Parts has just the sockets if that is all you need...
  11. Kurt, Racer X is correct. I am really familiar with mine and have had it apart a couple times...I will say there is an adjustment you can make to the tab that lifts when you press in the shift button, and it controls the travel of the tab that fit against the pawl. The other thing is that the pawl (machined grooves that hold the tab in place) may be really worn and with an older shifter, simply not engaging low enough. If I remember correctly, it is a spring tension that is set with a small flat blade and a lock nut. The adjustment either lengthens or shortens the cable that moves up and down inside the shifter shaft when you depress the button. It is hard to say much more until you get it apart. My problem was the shifter shaft was wobbling more than I wanted. There are two plastic bushings, one on inside, one on outside, that need be in place to tighten it up. In addition, it shoudl have a rubber boot in the top cover that also keeps it snug.
  12. Hey Guys, While traveling to a show a couple weeks ago, my radio started acting funny. It would nearly go off then back on...then off and back on...once I got to the show, 80 miles from home, I drove to the lot boss and while talking my pony died, and would not turn over...The lot boss jumped me and I made it to the parking area when it promptly died again. My guess at the time was bad alternator since I had a new battery already. I was able to get it going and made it home. whew! Anyway, I ordered a new alternator, regulartor and cabling. Alternator arrived first. When I installed and took out for test run, still not charging. When my backordered cable arrived, it was for the instrumentation version, and mine does not have that. I finally got the regulator and started voltage testing with both old and new regulator. To make this long story shorter, it is still not charging battery...I am seeing about 12.22VDC when at idle. I would think it needs to be at least 13.5 or more to charge. WHat I need to know is what I should be reading at the regulator when at idle on the two center pins. The new regulator has the outside pins as ground and linked together. If anybody has any ideas of what I can test or what else may be my problem, I am open for suggestions... Thanks...JB
  13. Hey Thanks! That is what I had no idea what it looked like...hahaha. I appreciate it!
  14. Guys I have no idea what this indicator / pointer/ whatever you wish to call it looks like. As you can see mine is broken off and I can't see what gear / position my auto stick is in. Does anybody have a pic of what it supposed to look like so I can fabricate something that looks similar? Thanks Guys... JB OK :D Let me rephrase the request. If somebody who has an auto shifter could go out and take a picture of what the pointer looks like (where it shows P R N D 2 1 ) so I can get an idea of what the pointer looks like it would really help me. I am trying to fabricate somethig that I have no idea of what it is SUPPOSED to look like...hahaha
  15. I too just invested in an AutoArt yellow 1971 Mach 1. I thought to use for display at shows and am hoping that it would get nabbed.... The detail is amazing. I could not really afford it either but was just too cool to not have. Now to have a collection of these...THAT is some $$$...
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