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FL72Sprint

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  • My Car
    72 Olympic Sprint 302

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    Florida
  • Region
    Southeast

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  1. Thank you all for the replies. I’ve already tossed the distributor. The teeth were all intact but had some scratching/gouging on them. Already planned on using a new one. I’ll make sure to use a regular flow oil pump as well. Unfortunately I’ll have to put off working on it for a bit. I’m retiring soon and moving back to our home town. The good news is that her brother is an actual mechanic (new model cars), so he’ll be able to assist/supervise the engine rebuild.
  2. Finally got the distributor out. Had to pound it out from the bottom. Not sure what caused it to get stuck. The teeth on the distro looked fairly ok. However, the cam has definitely lost a lot of teeth. Here’s a picture of what I found in the oil pan. Could any of this come from anything but the cam? Since the cam certainly needs to be replace, how hard is it to do? From the Haynes guide and online, it sounds somewhat straight forward. Looks came be deceiving though. I know there’s a lot of attention to detail, what part comes from which cylinder and the direction, etc. is it time to call I’m the pros? Time to complete doesn’t bother me and being in electronics repair by trade, I’m used to tracking where/how thing come from.
  3. Will check those items. But I think the metal came from the cam. From what I can tell right now, the teeth on the distro shaft are intact.
  4. Oh joy, I believe fun times are ahead. The new oil pump is high volume. Is that fine or should I get a regular flow? As far as I know it’s the original engine, which is why I went with high. I pulled the timing cover and dropped the oil pan. The oil pump and shaft came off just fine. However, the distributor still won’t come out. I think the camshaft might need to be replaced. Once I can get the distributor out, I can verify. There are metal pieces in the oil pan, which I know recently got in there. When I turn the crank/cam to certain spots, the distributor shaft will spin freely, even though the two gears should still be meshed. If the cam is missing teeth on the worm gear, can I just replace the cam or should I check/replace other internals?
  5. I know timing can’t be adjust under the timing cover. I meant to pull the cover in order to get to the bottom of the distributor shaft. It will rotate a bit with the clamp loose. Only the housing will lift slightly, maybe 1/8 inch. There is no upwards movement on the shaft. I’ve pulled/pried about as hart as I’m comfortable doing, it being cast aluminum. Is it possible it somehow got bound/stuck to the oil pump shaft?
  6. I’ve been trying to get the distributor off and it’s not coming. It’ll still turn with the cam so it’s not bound up that way. Both the distributor and oil pump are new. When I removed the old distributor it only took minor convincing. There wasn’t any issues getting the new distributor in. I’d prefer not having to go all the way down to the timing cover, but it’s looking like I won’t have a choice. Any ideas? Thanks
  7. Thank you all for the responses. I get continuous spark. I’ll try adjusting the cylinder and distributor. The timing blade (not sure correct name) is present on the block. However, the timing marks on the balancer are gone due to rusting. I can feel the piston in #1 when it comes up. If I turn the shaft until it stops moving up on the compression stroke, would that get me close enough before a timing light is needed? Also, does going from a double to single vacuum affect anything assuming all tubes are routed correctly?
  8. I recently picked up a 72 coupe with a 302 engine. The previous owner began repairing the car after an accident. Damage was pretty much only to the front end (up to the radiator / support). The car was "running when last moved". However, I'm not sure exactly how long since that supposedly was. When I've tried starting it, it will turn over. I will sometimes hear a popping sound (timing issue?) and other times where it seems to almost start (on a cylinder or two). There has been a few times where it has actually started for 1-2 seconds. Since I've had it, I've replaced a majority of the overall mechanicals. Within the engine bay, I've replaced pretty much everything outside of the block itself and it's internals. I've replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, distributor (plus wires and plugs), fuel pump, carburetor, oil pump, coolant and fuel hoses, starter, alternator, and p.s. pump. I might be leaving a couple things out. I've also replace the fuel tank and lines. All these were replaced due to the condition of the installed ones. Fuel is definitely getting to the carb. The distro went from double to single vacuum, so I'm not 100% on the vacuum system. I found a diagram of a single vacuum on here somewhere, but I can't find it again. There's also a couple wire connectors coming off a wiring harness near the distro/#5 cylinder. I'm not sure if they were ever used since nothing is really around the area they can reach. I also thinking it could be a compression or timing issue. However, I don't have the proper tools to test either of those. I can provide pictures (or wonderful hand drawings) if needed. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Matthew
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