Jump to content

ArtBBQ

Members
  • Posts

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by ArtBBQ

  1. You know CJ pony parts has an LED conversion that you can do. Makes the tail lights super bright compared to the OEM lights. You may want to try that before you try converting to the yellow? The brightness may make up for the lack of a yellow lens or bulb? Just a thought
  2. Not sure if you read the thread about clutch fan versus flex fan? Your post says it has dual fans. I'm guessing that means their electric? Do you think they're pushing enough air through the radiator when you're at a standstill? It could just be a CFM issue? Are they activated by a thermostat or by a switch? If it's just a thermostat you may be able to put an override switch in the blast air on to the radiator while you're sitting still.
  3. I did mine today. Took all of about 15 minutes to install. My shroud had two screws in the top. I removed those and the shroud leaned towards the engine which allowed me to access the fan and also the bolts on the water pump. When I started it up, I couldn't believe the amount of air being pushed out of the engine compartment. My original fan was a 17" flex fan. It didn't fit very well in the shroud having about a 2-in gap all the way around. I installed an 18-in clutch fan. Still have over an inch on each side of the shroud and also probably 3 in between the fan and the radiator. I think the combination of larger fan and fitting in the shroud better combined with the clutch fan has made a huge difference. After I took the flex fan off I did a little inspection of the rivets holding the blades in place. I found a hairline fracture on one of the blades. Probably just going to be a matter of time before that one came flying off. Thanks for all the info guys. You guys did all the hard work for me by researching part numbers etc.
  4. I'm not sure, I'll take a look tonight and post
  5. My 71 doesn't have an inner cap. There's a rubber seal on the inside and when you push the cap close that's what seals off the gas tank.
  6. Red 71 Mach 1 Likes Styling of the NASA hood, roof line and back window. Handling IMO is good for the vintage. It's fun to drive, sounds good and is a head turner. Dislikes Not a big fan of the extra long hood. Also I wish they would have stuck with more of the 69 to 70 contours of the back half of the car.
  7. Way back in the day I had an old slide mount for a tape deck radio. Thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread at the time
  8. It also draws warm air off of the exhaust manifold when your cold starting.
  9. So I'm going to sell my Mach 1. I thought I would post it here first in case there's a member looking for a car. Basic details are as follows: 71 Mach 1, 351 M code Cleveland 4 barrel carb is an Edelbrock performer but I have the original autolight carb which is included. Functional ram air, C6 auto trans with a shift kit, 3.50 geared limited slip 9" rear end. Motor and trans recently rebuilt, new shocks, suspension, flowmaster exhaust. No AC. 59 k on the odometer, true miles are unknown. Black and red interior which is pristine. Drives very nice. No play in the steering wheel. 15" A500 wheels front and back with very good tread. I have the original urathane front bumper which is included in the sale. It would need to be painted. This car needs nothing done to it. It's ready to roll. I can send anyone seriously interested more pictures. My email is art2k3 at Gmail.com I'm looking for 30 K or best reasonable offer
  10. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-ford-mustang-19/
  11. Mine will be 50 on December 10.
  12. So it sounds like the starter is turning the motor over when you turn the key, but the engine just doesn't fire up ? Then after cooling off for 45 minutes it fired right up. A couple things come to mind. It sounds like it's just overheating to me? Have you checked the antifreeze level in the radiator? If that is full and it's of decent quality, maybe the thermostat is stuck closed and not allowing fluid to cycle through the motor. Is there antifreeze on the garage floor from the previous time you drove it? One thing you can do is take it to your local auto parts and have them check the antifreeze quality and quantity. If those two are good then look at the thermostat. Even with basic tools you can remove it and replace it fairly easily. There's a YouTube video for everything. Be careful driving it if it's overheating you could do some serious damage. The second thing that comes to mind is sometimes either the starter will get too hot from exhaust being close to it or either the ground wire or the hot wire might have a bad connection on it and it's not allowing the motor to turn over fast enough to start the motor. But my gut feeling is it's overheating
  13. You need to add more details about what it does or doesn't do when trying to restart it. Does it turn over? Does the starter click when the key is turned ? Did you maybe flood it with gas trying to restart it?
  14. It looks like someone painted a steel bumper that they massaged to somewhat fit car.
  15. Love the paint job. The matching orange on the dash is a great look also. Awesome restoration job !
  16. The Mach 1 is faster because well, Speed Racer drove it before he got his Mach 5. No difference
  17. Thank you for the info. Which pic of mine shows the clip in the wrong position? I guess I need to get an assembly manual for the brakes so I can see exactly how that it's supposed to go together. I had no idea it was missing the back or plate
  18. Sure I'm up for trying just about anything. A couple of the other forums that I visit have done the same thing. I didn't realize there was a China connection in there. Kudos for breaking ties
  19. So I had a rattle on the front passenger side of my 71 Mach 1. To start with I took the front wheel off check to make sure all the suspension components were tight without any rattles. Looked at the brakes everything seemed fine. My hood I thought was a little bit loose so I tightened up the adjusters on the inside to take up any slack. Some of the rattle went away but I still had a rattle? Next I thought I might have a broken shock or coilover. A quick look and some quick testing by pushing down on the fender confirmed the shock and spring were fine. So I took it over to a buddy of mine to do a ride along with me to see if he could figure out what it was. Let me start out by saying he's one of those guys that is a mechanical genius. He can fix anything anytime anywhere, he amazes me. So we brought it into his shop He took the front tire off and started investigating the suspension the shock etc etc. He then grabbed some wrenches and pulled the front disc caliper off. When he pulled the two bolts out, he noticed that they were all gummy and had a residue on them. We kind of figured that the rubber bushing that was in there had disintegrated from heat from the brake and just time. Instead it seems the previous owner or mechanic had just cut a piece of rubber fuel line and used that as a bushing around the bolt. All that didn't work really well hence the rattle. Pictures below are of the brake caliper the new rubber bushing and what I found inside on both sides. Hopefully this saves somebody else a lot of investigative work trying to solve the same sort of rattle. The first pick shows the rubber gas line around the caliper bolt. The second pic shows what was inserted and what a brand new rubber bushing looks like. The bolt goes inside of that rubber bushing and holds the brake pads in place. The third and fourth picture basically just shows the bolt and the rubber bushing how it looks on your caliper bracket.
  20. I normally use Tapatalk to access the forum. The changes made have messed with that unfortunately do I can't use it any longer. Hopefully Tapatalk updates their side soon.
×
×
  • Create New...