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Aus73Mach1 last won the day on September 7 2020

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1 Sports Roof.
    Q code. 351-4V
    C6 Auto, 3.25 Rear Axle, AC, Power steering.

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  • Location
    QLD Australia
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  1. On the plus side, glad I'm not the only one to have fallen into the loose header nuts/bolts trap. Maybe a new club page "My Loose Nuts"
  2. I agree, the pinion bearings in the video are clearly shot and the diff would be noisy. There should be no movement sideways there and obviously no preload on those bearings. Diff rebuild is not that difficult. Replace all bearings in the 3rd but, you will have to check and/or correct the contact pattern on the crown wheel/pinion gears, set the correct backlash and then apply the correct pretension on the pinion bearings. If you want to change the 3.50 to 3.25, that is a different gear set so the easiest way may be to look for one already done.
  3. Had the same problem with my gauges. While the stud is out make sure the lock nut spins freely before reassembly. I sanded the flat section of the stud and applied a blob of solder. While the heater wire does not "attract" solder, I cleaned the end, put a slight twist in the wire and encased it in the blob of solder on the stud. Put it back together and super glued the stud and cracked plastic backing. Everything held together on reassembly and guages worked fine.
  4. I used a piece of aluminium "roof gutter guard". Strong enough and easy to cut to shape, bend & punch holes.
  5. I used a Holley Brawler Carby. No adjustment was needed for idle, choke, etc. Also has sight glasses for float levels. Works extremely well on the 4V through full throttle range.
  6. Just a thought but that gasket on the top side looks like it is not compressed and could be causing an air leak under the carby and causing some of the issues you have. David
  7. Yes, that's the acid, hydrochloric by another name. Wear gloves and wash off all parts with water and dry quickly to prevent surface rust forming. The "wax & grease" remover I referred to is a pre-paint cleaner to remove oil, wax & other contaminants. No need to sand blast everything. I wire wheeled/brushed lots of parts prior to the black gal treatment. I did all the brake lines as well. I would take the extra time to pull the rest of the diff out seeing you are that far in. You need to fix that oil leak, a lot easier with it all out. Removing the tail shaft is no big deal, mark everything before removal and only a brake bleed after re-installation. Here are a few other parts treated the same way a while ago, left over from my project. David
  8. A great project for you both. Not sure if this will help. Mine was a total resto with most parts sand blasted. Instead of using normal primer and paint on the bare steel pieces, nuts, bolts, etc I cleaned up any bare metal and used a cold galvanizing paint. This stuff bonds to clean steel, no primer or sealer. You need to get rid of all rust but not with rust remover or converter as this interferes with the galvanizing bonding. Rusty bits I dipped or brushed with 50/50 pool acid/water after wire brushing loose rust & dirt. Dry and wipe down with acetone or wax and grease remover, then spray the cold gal. Finish is satin black and doesn't chip. I did all the rear parts, diff, spring mounts, u bolts, drums, etc. It's great on coil springs as well it will coat them but not crack when stretched. The brake drum in the following photos has done about 2,500 miles and no sign of burn discolouring. Its easy to spray in tight spots, no mixing paint and great to small bits at a time. In expensive and touches up very well for those bits you might miss. Also available in silver.
  9. Bought mine direct from Graphics Express. No problem whatsoever. Fast shipping, excellent product and a perfect easy fit.
  10. Installed a USB charger for the cigarette lighter socket with one of these, no change to the socket and this unit fits tight. Pulled out the threaded bit on the lighter knob and epoxied in a cut down male USB plug. Had to make sure all wires were removed to prevent any short circuit; It's only fractionally longer that the original lighter. Looks ok in place and also has an "on" light on the usb adapter. During my re-wire I changed the lighter to switched power so no chance of being left on.
  11. David, your last comment "Try tightening your header bolts again." made me smile. Some years ago, my Alfa GTV6 developed this quite loud top end metallic knock but only just when you put your foot down and at idle. With the old stick to the ear, sounded like #1 cylinder was the culprit and definitely somewhere in the top end. I took off the tappet cover, clearances all OK. Compression check also OK. Engine had done about 40K since a full rebuild. I didn’t want to pull the heads off (head gaskets not cheap) without first checking from below, so took a day to pull the engine out and onto the engine stand. Turned it upside down and pulled off the lower sump pan. Inside the motor looked as new, not a mark on the bore, big end bearing, etc. gudgeon pin was nice and tight, so I’m thinking it must be in the top end. Turned the engine back upright to start pulling it apart and only then noticed the 2 nuts from the #1 extractor/header flange had come off the studs. I gave the pipe a bump with my hand and there’s that metallic knock. The knock was the front flange banging on the head. Looking down at the motor in the engine bay you can’t actually see the nuts on the exhaust studs, also it didn’t sound like a typical blown exhaust gasket. So, three days to replace 2 manifold nuts and a few more "names" for the car.
  12. Dennis, Totally agree with your comments re flashing brake lights in Australia, 99.0% of drivers would think you just had faulty brake lights and no intention of turning. My thoughts on your fix. The extra wires to the rear from the front indicators to the reversing lights with diodes should be ok and also keep the emergency flasher on all lights operational. What if you were to cut the 2 wires to the rear brake lights and the feed in from the brake light switch at the plug from the column signal switch or remove them from the plug and join these 3 together. This should stop the flashing brake lights but leave the brake lights operational as the brake light switch is fed with power. All this should be fairly easily accessible at the steering column wires without major hacking of the wiring harness. David
  13. My 73 came from a friend of mine who had the car for a number of years. It was completely dismantled about 10 years ago. After moving house a number of times and realising the cost of a full restoration and the time involved, he decided he would not be in a position to do it for many more years to come. He needed the single garage space in his new home, fully taken up by the car, panels,engine, trans, etc and boxes of all the other bits. Reluctantly he offered the car to me for next to nothing on the proviso I would not part it out being a Mach1, matching numbers car, Q code, 4V, etc and well optioned. I decided on a full ground up resto. Sand blasted (except for flat panels), all rusted sections repaired or replaced. 99.9% of every nut, bolt, screw and rivet removed and replaced. I haven't worked on a Mustang before and with nothing bagged or tagged, and a complete re-wiring, assembly was like a giant jigsaw. The 7173 site has been a huge help. Negatives - Cost is always more than first thought; Hundreds of hours of time. BUT Positives – Looks great, sounds great, real fun to drive and a head-turner when I'm out enjoying it. Would I do it again? BLOODY OATH MATE! David
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