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Aus73Mach1

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Aus73Mach1 last won the day on September 7 2020

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1 Sports Roof.
    Q code. 351-4V
    C6 Auto, 3.25 Rear Axle, AC, Power steering.

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  • Location
    QLD Australia
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. I have this new grommet left over from my build. Not sure which one it is but may fit. Hole size ~28mm. Yes easiest way is to slice and seal back in with sikaflex or similar. If you can't find a local supplier, I'll post to you, no charge or it will sit in my shed forever. David
  2. Sorry, yes Aus = Australia. No Australia did not make Mustang columns. The column in mine was the original USA 73 Mustang. Many parts (mechanical) on our early 70's Fords will fit the 71-73 mustangs. Same engines, trans, diffs, etc. Various Falcon bits I have used, Steering Box, Master Cylinder, Engine Mounts, Brakes, Suspension parts, Seat Belts, etc Just our steering is on the "right" side. Have a look at these 2 photos. 1- My USA 73 Mach1. 2- Aus XB GT Falcon
  3. I used one of these full sets available in Aus, fitted straight in without any problems. DOORS & BOOT LOCK + IGNITION BARREL SUIT XY XA XB & GT FALCON ZD ZF ZG F/LANE
  4. Mike, ebay. Fabrice, Yes it does. 1- Hose from the radiator cap filler goes below the tank fluid level via the elbow I fitted in lieu of the straight fitting. Outlet on top is overflow/vent. It fitted neatly back through the hole where AC hoses go through. 2- The radiator cap must have the vacuum release on it (round chrome disk in the center) Water is pushed out through the normal rubber gasket in the radiator cap as the engine heats up. When cooling down the chrome valve allows water from the tank to return to the radiator under vacuum. I spaced the tank from the headlight bracket with a couple of nuts to give better clearance. Two 5/16th bolts were plenty to hold the tank in place. That's the ebay one (or similar) I used. Well worth it and looks neat and easy to check water level.
  5. Tank came ready to mount. Powder coated black. Has various options for the inlet, outlet and sight tube. Just drilled 2 holes in the side of the headlight frame to bolt it up and connect the hoses. No change to ac lines or anything else and fitted perfectly. I used an elbow against the radiator frame to fit the hose from the radiator filler just to keep it neat but with a longer hose it can go on a bottom outlet next to the sight tube or in the drain plug hole underneath. $AU37.00 inc delivery. Looks a lot better and was cheaper than the plastic one I originally installed. Can take a few more pics if that helps.
  6. Has anyone ever fitted the KG4504's? on a 71-73 model even though they are listed for these models. Has KYB just made an error in their fitment charts? Maybe send this picture to them and ask.
  7. Thanks Kilgon, that's a very helpful document. So the check valve in the can is probably a thin piece of rubber and after so many years has probably deteriorated.
  8. I wasn't sure whether the vac can has a one way valve to hold vacuum once the engine was stopped. Mine certainly didn't so I installed a small one way valve in the vac line from the tree to the can. The system now holds vacuum and the vents, etc will operate a few times after the engine stops. It also verified no leaks in all the under dash vac lines.
  9. I found the KYB front shocks, #553314 way too short. I'm sure they would max out putting stress on the shocks and the shock tower. I swapped them for the KYB #343156. they are longer and will allow the suspension to hang to the sub-frame without blocks and no stress on the top shock rubbers. Both these are listed for the 71-73 mustangs. Was there a different spring height say with the sports suspension kit option?
  10. RIBS, If it were me I would cut out the rusty bits as other have suggested, BUT, we all know we have to work to a budget. If you are sure the metal in place is solid, no flexing, etc, I would tack weld any areas I thought needed extra reinforcing, eg bottom of the wheel well in your picture. Sand these areas down to bare metal, wire brush, sander, etc. Clean and then apply fiber glass fabric and resin over the cleaned areas. It is not expensive and easy to shape and sand when hardened and easily painted over. Or a coat of under-body type paint over the whole repair and then paint. The resin will also run into hollow spaces and help prevent moisture build up. As timachone mentioned, there cannot be any areas where moisture can get in or the rusting will continue. This is particularly important if 2 layers of metal are present. I did such a repair on a partly rusted firewall and inner guard panels on another vehicle years ago, shaped it and then painted it. 20+ years and no sign of rust coming through. This is not a suggested repair for any structural members but light panels only.
  11. I punched holes through the under carpet insulation as it was installed matching the holes in the trans tunnel. It didn't matter if the holes were a bit big as long as the screw holes were visible. Then put short screws in each hole sticking out past the underlay. When the new carpet is properly positioned and fitted, these short screws can be felt under the carpet and a hole burned through on top of the screw heads with a soldering iron. Definitely do not use a drill as this will certainly pull threads and ruin the carpet. I left the drilling of the console holes last as you may need to move the carpet around as it's fitted under the dash, door sills, etc. This may also help with locating the spot to drill the holes in the console.
  12. Sounds like the original resistance wire through the tacho has been bypassed. Isn't the resistor wire for the coil, not the tacho. As I understand it the tacho itself doesn't actually run the coil voltage through it as it is triggered by the voltage pulses from the points. I run MSD ignition with full 12V "through" the factory tacho and it works fine, accurate and steady. The resistance wire has been removed entirely.
  13. I had a problem with stripped threads in the hub and purchased 2 kits to suit. One was so bad I got a refund. The build quality is probably some of the worst I've seen. The photos show the new parts straight out of the box. The wires on both slip rings are soldered in the path of the slip ring pins. I ended up having to remove the original slip ring plate and glue it onto the new hub. What kit number did you buy? It appears you may have a direct short circuit. First, check that the horns work. Disconnect the wires, remove the steering wheel and hub. That done, bridge the 2 slip ring pins and the horns should work. If not and you get sparks instead, the problem is in the wiring somewhere else. I have instructions and can provide more photos if you need them for the Grant kit.
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