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Everything posted by Aus73Mach1

  1. On the plus side, glad I'm not the only one to have fallen into the loose header nuts/bolts trap. Maybe a new club page "My Loose Nuts"
  2. I agree, the pinion bearings in the video are clearly shot and the diff would be noisy. There should be no movement sideways there and obviously no preload on those bearings. Diff rebuild is not that difficult. Replace all bearings in the 3rd but, you will have to check and/or correct the contact pattern on the crown wheel/pinion gears, set the correct backlash and then apply the correct pretension on the pinion bearings. If you want to change the 3.50 to 3.25, that is a different gear set so the easiest way may be to look for one already done.
  3. Had the same problem with my gauges. While the stud is out make sure the lock nut spins freely before reassembly. I sanded the flat section of the stud and applied a blob of solder. While the heater wire does not "attract" solder, I cleaned the end, put a slight twist in the wire and encased it in the blob of solder on the stud. Put it back together and super glued the stud and cracked plastic backing. Everything held together on reassembly and guages worked fine.
  4. I used a piece of aluminium "roof gutter guard". Strong enough and easy to cut to shape, bend & punch holes.
  5. I used a Holley Brawler Carby. No adjustment was needed for idle, choke, etc. Also has sight glasses for float levels. Works extremely well on the 4V through full throttle range.
  6. Just a thought but that gasket on the top side looks like it is not compressed and could be causing an air leak under the carby and causing some of the issues you have. David
  7. Yes, that's the acid, hydrochloric by another name. Wear gloves and wash off all parts with water and dry quickly to prevent surface rust forming. The "wax & grease" remover I referred to is a pre-paint cleaner to remove oil, wax & other contaminants. No need to sand blast everything. I wire wheeled/brushed lots of parts prior to the black gal treatment. I did all the brake lines as well. I would take the extra time to pull the rest of the diff out seeing you are that far in. You need to fix that oil leak, a lot easier with it all out. Removing the tail shaft is no big deal, mark everything before removal and only a brake bleed after re-installation. Here are a few other parts treated the same way a while ago, left over from my project. David
  8. A great project for you both. Not sure if this will help. Mine was a total resto with most parts sand blasted. Instead of using normal primer and paint on the bare steel pieces, nuts, bolts, etc I cleaned up any bare metal and used a cold galvanizing paint. This stuff bonds to clean steel, no primer or sealer. You need to get rid of all rust but not with rust remover or converter as this interferes with the galvanizing bonding. Rusty bits I dipped or brushed with 50/50 pool acid/water after wire brushing loose rust & dirt. Dry and wipe down with acetone or wax and grease remover, then spray the cold gal. Finish is satin black and doesn't chip. I did all the rear parts, diff, spring mounts, u bolts, drums, etc. It's great on coil springs as well it will coat them but not crack when stretched. The brake drum in the following photos has done about 2,500 miles and no sign of burn discolouring. Its easy to spray in tight spots, no mixing paint and great to small bits at a time. In expensive and touches up very well for those bits you might miss. Also available in silver.
  9. Bought mine direct from Graphics Express. No problem whatsoever. Fast shipping, excellent product and a perfect easy fit.
  10. Installed a USB charger for the cigarette lighter socket with one of these, no change to the socket and this unit fits tight. Pulled out the threaded bit on the lighter knob and epoxied in a cut down male USB plug. Had to make sure all wires were removed to prevent any short circuit; It's only fractionally longer that the original lighter. Looks ok in place and also has an "on" light on the usb adapter. During my re-wire I changed the lighter to switched power so no chance of being left on.
  11. David, your last comment "Try tightening your header bolts again." made me smile. Some years ago, my Alfa GTV6 developed this quite loud top end metallic knock but only just when you put your foot down and at idle. With the old stick to the ear, sounded like #1 cylinder was the culprit and definitely somewhere in the top end. I took off the tappet cover, clearances all OK. Compression check also OK. Engine had done about 40K since a full rebuild. I didn’t want to pull the heads off (head gaskets not cheap) without first checking from below, so took a day to pull the engine out and onto the engine stand. Turned it upside down and pulled off the lower sump pan. Inside the motor looked as new, not a mark on the bore, big end bearing, etc. gudgeon pin was nice and tight, so I’m thinking it must be in the top end. Turned the engine back upright to start pulling it apart and only then noticed the 2 nuts from the #1 extractor/header flange had come off the studs. I gave the pipe a bump with my hand and there’s that metallic knock. The knock was the front flange banging on the head. Looking down at the motor in the engine bay you can’t actually see the nuts on the exhaust studs, also it didn’t sound like a typical blown exhaust gasket. So, three days to replace 2 manifold nuts and a few more "names" for the car.
  12. Dennis, Totally agree with your comments re flashing brake lights in Australia, 99.0% of drivers would think you just had faulty brake lights and no intention of turning. My thoughts on your fix. The extra wires to the rear from the front indicators to the reversing lights with diodes should be ok and also keep the emergency flasher on all lights operational. What if you were to cut the 2 wires to the rear brake lights and the feed in from the brake light switch at the plug from the column signal switch or remove them from the plug and join these 3 together. This should stop the flashing brake lights but leave the brake lights operational as the brake light switch is fed with power. All this should be fairly easily accessible at the steering column wires without major hacking of the wiring harness. David
  13. My 73 came from a friend of mine who had the car for a number of years. It was completely dismantled about 10 years ago. After moving house a number of times and realising the cost of a full restoration and the time involved, he decided he would not be in a position to do it for many more years to come. He needed the single garage space in his new home, fully taken up by the car, panels,engine, trans, etc and boxes of all the other bits. Reluctantly he offered the car to me for next to nothing on the proviso I would not part it out being a Mach1, matching numbers car, Q code, 4V, etc and well optioned. I decided on a full ground up resto. Sand blasted (except for flat panels), all rusted sections repaired or replaced. 99.9% of every nut, bolt, screw and rivet removed and replaced. I haven't worked on a Mustang before and with nothing bagged or tagged, and a complete re-wiring, assembly was like a giant jigsaw. The 7173 site has been a huge help. Negatives - Cost is always more than first thought; Hundreds of hours of time. BUT Positives – Looks great, sounds great, real fun to drive and a head-turner when I'm out enjoying it. Would I do it again? BLOODY OATH MATE! David
  14. Pulled out the gauges and went with the white faces. Also the KPH face. Even though I was around pre-metric the brain gets a bit foggy doing MPH/KPH calculations on the go. Also fitted all LEDs in the gauges. Much easier to read. David
  15. Hi Brendan, My rear back panels had started to fade slightly. These had any paint scrubbed off and then cleaned and wiped down with Wax & Grease remover. I then sprayed them with flat black 2K paint with flex additive, no undercoat. The amount of flex additive actually determined the level of gloss finish. As per the photo of my rear seat belt install, the finish ended up the same as the new rear front panels. I did all the plastic pieces in the car using this method. The 2K paint won't scratch off like a lot of other paints. Scratches are hard to remove but new paint seems to make them less noticable. Any cracks were back blocked with a piece of plastic panel glued with Sikaflex. Any holes were also treated the same way. Hope this helps. New and old side by side.
  16. Tony, That rear upper mounting point was added to meet Aust rules when the car was RHD converted. A plate with a seat belt nut was welded to the inner panel. There is plenty of room to do this with the sail panel removed. The set of seat belts is an Aus XB Falcon set, 2 X retractable front lap/sash (with a shorter tunnel stalk), 2 X rear lap sash, 1 X center rear lap belt. The set included the drop down shoulder bracket for the front seats and the drop down link for the rear floor mount to allow clear access to the rear seats. These are still made in Aus and meet current design rules.
  17. When I rebuilt my 351 there were a number of rusty broken spring pieces in the block, from the spring coil in the radiator hose. From the score marks on the water pump impeller a couple of pieces had made it to the water pump. It took a fair bit of turning the bare block on an engine stand to finally get all the pieces out. Glad I found them before the final assembly as all the flushing, air blowing, etc during the initial cleaning of the block didn't flush them out.
  18. I did mine recently as follows; A layer of 3M strip seal between flat section of the drip rail and roof. Windscreen sealant in the groove covering the roof drip rail and then along the inner edge of the flat section of the drip rail. Taped up the rectangular holes and bent the tags back into the metal weather strip so that no sealant disappeared into these leaving holes. The screw holes give all the alignment needed. Two rows of 3m strip seal as per David’s photo on the inner trim and then more windscreen sealant along all edges particularly at the rear of the quarter window.
  19. Both front eye bolts on mine were frozen solid. Even a gas torch didn't move them and not much room for a big hammer. Sitting on the shelf in the shed was this small bottle jack I made years ago during a trade course. I was never sure what it would ever be used for but with a strip of steel against the back of the rocker panel it fitted nicely against the eye bolt. After plenty of penetrating oil, the jack pushed the bolts through. Still took a lot or force on the adjusting nut to break the bolts free. So my motto has always been, never throw anything out, it may come in handy one day.
  20. Cam, All the current door trim chrome and rubber seal, rear quarter glass,etc has to come out as the new drip rails fit underneath these strips. To get to the quarter glass, back seats, quarter trim panels, etc will also have to come out. Probably a good idea to all this to make sure it is all sealed properly. David's photos above show how the drip rail chrome is screwed in first. David
  21. Up and running at last. Primed the oil and fuel and fired it up for the first time yesterday. Started on the first crank and after a slight timing adjustment, runs great. Went for a spin round the block today. Still a few things to tidy up, wheel alignment, brake bleed and check all the electrical after the complete re-wire, full tune-up etc. Took a bit longer on the final assembly as the car came in pieces and being my first Mustang, I learnt the hard way which pieces need to go in first. Some of the reproduction items also don't fit exactly but with adjustments it all came together well. One thing I was really disappointed with was the quality of the new rear window trims, They are just crap, not much better than tin foil. Does anyone make a decent reproduction? In hindsight I would have glued them in and forget about the clips. I'll post some more of my build and some of the issues I had to overcome but for now here it is. Sorry David for the shiny hood.
  22. Front finished this morning, Bumper Bar, Grille, headlights, wiring harness, AC dryer & lines, etc. The bumper bar was an effort on my own but everything lined up, so all good. Now onto the roof lining. BUT, Now realised the body shop that did the sand blasting and final disassembly sent me back the wrong front guard extensions so now it all has to come out and the correct ones installed. !!!!
  23. Thanks. I'm pleased I stayed with the original colour. Should look great once stripes, etc are done. Hopefully it should go back together fairly quickly as everything is ready to go. Finished the boot/trunk area yesterday. Seal, lights, key lock, etc. Looks better with the wheels back on. They were stored with the car (in pieces) for 10 + years by the PO. Just a clean up and polish and they came up like new.
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