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Sheriff41

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    72 Mustang Q-code

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    Texas
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    South

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  1. Congratulations! I look forward to your full report to us!
  2. I find it less to order from AMK unless I can get free shipping from a vendor. If all is the same, I'll order from a vendor just to support them.
  3. My thoughts: If they were installed when the paint was fresh or your paint is soft (old enamel) they may leave some marks. If they were put on later, once the paint was hardened, you can probably polish out any marks left. Be careful on the inside lip that you don't pull the paint off with the trim. Touch up the paint around the screw holes to prevent rust.
  4. I've been a big fan of these for a long time. https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/super-turbo-mufflers I have headers on my '72 and these produce a nice mellow tone and loud enough for me when I mash the loud pedal. May be a little quieter with manifolds vs. headers.
  5. Nice work, Chris! You can be proud of that paint work!
  6. Here's my suggestions: For the console box you could get a sheet of ABS plastic and shape a new bottom. I'd go with a rectangle the size of the bottom and adhere it in place from the topside. On the console, fiberglass might work. JB Weld makes some plastic weld that works good on several types of plastics. Use some mesh or some of the ABS sheet to reinforce it on the underside. Good luck and let us know how you end up doing your repairs.
  7. Yep, the u-joint end of the yoke should be plugged. I didn't notice that in the photos until you mentioned it. I use Denny's for my drive line parts. https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c121_transmission_slip_yokes.html There are many others but I've had good service from Denny's. Looks like those yokes are in high demand! If you can find a drive shaft out of a 5-speed Fox Mustang, it looks like they use the same yoke as the 28-spline top loader.
  8. Did you check Rock Auto for brake rotors? I think they ship to Canada.
  9. Congrats! Did your builder say anything about adding friction modifier to the gear oil? The clutches need that. I'd recommend changing the bearings and seals now. Swab out the axle tubes to get any old debris out of them so it doesn't contaminate your new parts. I buy several cans of brake clean and spray the axle tubes. An old bed sheet you can tear into swabs, and a broom handle to push them through the housing works well. Spray, swab, spray and swab usually does the job. If you drill and tap, use a 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT plug. Use a thread sealer (Permatex No. 2 non-hardening) or thread tape on the plug's threads. A weld-on bung would be better, though.
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