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    1972 Convert - Pewter/black/351


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    New Jersey
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drk1313's Achievements


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  1. My turn signals and flashers worked ok. They were separate bulbs in the kit and gave no issues luckily. Looks good. Did Bill sell you the grounded LED flashers that you need for the LED turn signal bulbs? (turn and hazard) When I did mine the first time (yes, I did mine twice) I did not get the flashers and found the LED turn signal bulbs did not work unless I re-installed the 194's. Yes, the LED's were in the correct way! I also had electronic flashers. Originally, I bought the Extreme series, but found them only a bit better than the 194's, so I bought the Elite series that made a huge difference. At that time I changed all but the headlights to LED/SMD's so the grounded flasher was a must at that point. As a side note, I found that my wire harness had been made wrong with the power and neutral wires switched around in the socket. That caused me a ton of frustration until Bill and Midlife came to the rescue. I was unable to switch the wires, so I just made up a couple of short jumper wires to connect the flasher. I thought I should mention the flasher problem as most are unaware of it. They probably should be included in the kits. Geoff.
  2. Hard to get a good pic, but this will give an idea at least. I have the flashers on and the high beams.
  3. I too have the Elite series II and they dim almost all the way down. I also had installed a new headlight switch. Same here - They dim pretty much like stock bulbs.
  4. I purchased and installed the LED dash light kit from www.hipoparts.com The kit was comprehensive and included a clear instructions sheet. It really woke up my dash - bulbs are included for the blinkers and high beam horse as well. It seems pricey at about $70, but you don't have to piece it together, so it saves some time and hassle. Be sure to test the lights before you button up the dash, as the bulbs have to be inserted in the correct direction to work properly. The whole job took a leisurely 2 hours, so it's a great winter/weekend project.
  5. I've always had good luck with VHT 'Roll Bar and Chassis' black in satin finish. It comes in gloss too - just make sure you get the satin. Autozone, etc. has it for about $8. It covers well and holds up.
  6. I had to replace the valve stem seals on my '72 convertible and took the opportunity to clean and detail everything under the hood. It was pretty much original, so 47 years of road grime and grease made for some dirty work, but well worth the effort. Found a weak plug wire and I was also able to finally loosen my stuck distributor to properly set the timing (mentioned in another thread). I've used VHT 'Roll Bar' satin black for years on other projects, and find that it holds up well and cleans up easily. Nice to tinker under the hood now with clean hands! Not meant to be 100% factory correct, just clean. Some before and after pics: upload image
  7. After 3 days of soaking with PB Blaster and tapping on the housing a few times a day it finally broke loose this AM. After working it back and forth it now moves freely. In this case I had time, so patience paid off. Thanks for the suggestions -
  8. I didn't post anything on FB, so it wasn't me. I have to get a strap wrench and let it soak a bit more - probably this weekend. Thanks I believe the OP (answered on FB ) he got it out. SO we will see if he returns here to tell us his experience (or if there is now new work to be done) Mark
  9. I was replacing the valve cover gaskets on my '72 351 and found several chunks of rock hard valve guide seals in the heads. Never tried to replace seals with the heads still on the car, but with compressed air in the cylinders and a spring compressor the job was not too bad. Most of the seals crumbled when I pulled the spring. I found one seal still in one piece, but it was as hard as a rock as well. Here's a pic of a new one installed. I would get a nice puff of oil at start-up, so this was a job worth doing for sure.
  10. Strap wrench sounds good - I'll follow up. Thanks
  11. Did a search a few different ways, but came up empty. Trying to adjust my timing and I found my distributor is frozen (351C) - will not turn at all. Started the soaking process and saw lots of Google results on the topic, but most end up with the distributor destroyed. My car has A/C as well, so access is limited. Any suggestions beyond the usual pry bar/BFH? I'm converting to Petronix and want to get everything dialed in. Thanks
  12. I've painted a few projects over the years and my best 2 cents would be to avoid 'trendy' colors of the moment. I painted an El Camino in 2008 in a copper color that was hot on new cars at the time - now you never really see it anymore. Think of the teal and orange sherbet color street rods from the 90's that show up at the TV auctions - they look very dated. I'm seeing a lot of new cars and trucks in non-metallic 'battleship' gray lately - I have a feeling that color will age poorly.
  13. I saw some old threads on this topic, but thought this was interesting. I was able to get a picture of the stamping on the back of the 351 in my '72 convertible. The numbers in my VIN are 222483. The number on the block is 222348. I figure the guy had the right numbers and just transposed them in the stamp that day in 1972. The car has never been apart and is all original, so you never know. Also amazing how sloppy/shaky the stamping is.
  14. No mention in the Marti Report I have of gauges or clock. I notice the two top idiot light locations are blank on my clock pod - no lettering or lights.
  15. Pewter color is interesting - changes from silver to a light green depending on the light. Looks like someone added the center gauges - it has a clock in the left pod where the tach would be. Not sure if this was a possible combo?
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