Jump to content

Mister 4x4

Administrators
  • Content Count

    7896
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    34

Mister 4x4 last won the day on June 18

Mister 4x4 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

260 Excellent

About Mister 4x4

  • Rank
    Too Big to Sneak
  • Birthday 12/31/1967

Custom User Image

  • Custom User Image

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1971 Mustang Mach 1

Location

  • Location
    San Angelo, Texas
  • Region
    Southwest

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

93 profile views
  1. Totally understand - not all of these cars came with them. It's cool seeing all of the different solutions, as well.
  2. I replaced the ammeter with a Bosch voltmeter, same as the one above. I completely disassembled the Bosch gauge and simply replaced the factory gauge with the 'guts' of the Bosch gauge - no crazy fabrication needed. The big difference I see between mine and the others shown here is the direct mounting of the aftermarket gauges to the 3-gauge cluster trim panel, rather than mounted into a factory 3-gauge cluster which would then be mounted to dashboard, with the trim panel installed over it.
  3. Totally understand, and makes perfect sense. I was just keyed-in on your use of 'ANY,' since I have a 7-blade fan (from an earlier run, of course). I'm not trying to argue semantics, either. Thanks for sharing.
  4. Care to elaborate on why one should never use ANY seven blade fan? I have one from a 63 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL and it's GREAT!
  5. Actually convinced the wife to go for a ride last night. We went to Sonic for some root beer floats & corn dogs, then took some of the same over to my Mom's place. Pulled up to her place right about sunset, then remembered that I still need to aim the headlights and discovered one of the LEDs in the speedometer needs a reseat as well. Driving along with all the lights on and noticing the voltmeter's reading just about 12.5V says everything seems to be working OK, but when the RPMs drop back to idle, it seems to struggle for juice. Might be time for a newer, high-output 1-wire alternator, along with the H4 headlights and headlight relay circuit installation. It sucks kind of having to 'feel my way home in the dark.' Fortunately, there was hardly any traffic. Still - had a great time... she seemed to enjoy it as well.
  6. SWEET! Welcome from West Texas! Nice ride! Gotta love them Cragars! The one I fell in love with when I was 14 back in '82 was a Grabber Yellow/Ginger Interior '71 Mach 1 with a 302/auto - nice combination! I also swapped in an AOD behind my 351C - easy-peasy. What rear gears do you have? The beauty of the AOD is that it shares the same 1-2-3 internal ratios with the FMX, so you're basically just getting overdrive out of the deal. For me, that worked out fine since mine has 3.00 gears, and so did the '89 5.0 my AOD came from (no performance loss, in other words). Can't wait to hear and see more about your car!
  7. And there ya go - general consensus is that if you monkey with things no matter how subtle or 'invisible,' you'll mess up the car and bring down 'the value.' Well, they're really not worth anything until the day of the sale... or the insurance adjustment, if that's the case. Just like any other investment, you won't see any return value until you cash out. If that's the goal - go for it, I say. If you're really not worried about 'numbers-matching,' or 'concourse condition,' look into getting a 'lesser' model, adding some performance mods and have something even more potent than a Boss 351. I know mine is pushing 400hp at the crank - if I'd gone with a 4-speed and 3.50 or better gears. I'm pretty sure I could smoke a Boss 351 in short order (not a goal of mine by any means, of course). Even with an AOD and 3.00 gears, it moves out smartly and is a lot of fun to drive. The sky's the limit with restomodding - go as crazy or conservative as you like and come out ahead of the game, while not dicing up a rare and/or collectible car. My mods are mostly performance enhancing with some period-correct cosmetic mods, because I wanted what I would've built back in the '80s had I been able to have one back then. One more piece of advice (that you kind of eluded to in your original post): always start with the best car you can afford, but make sure it fits into your plan so you don't over-buy and wind up back-tracking. For instance, if you have a specific color in mind, maybe that one with the faded paint turns out to be the best deal (since a color change is planned anyway). Some folks will buy an I-6 or 302 car to build a race car, then drop in a big-block or Coyote 5.0... or one with an automatic and swap-in a manual. Build it how you like - you'll just enjoy it just that much more.
  8. Other than being in that exclusive club and everything that comes with owning such a rare car, there's really no benefit to having a Boss 351, IMHO. As John eluded to, you're not really buying a 'car' anymore, but rather an investment into a piece of history. Sure, you might fire it up for a quick burn around the block or even on/off a trailer for an event or a car show every now and then - but if you're wanting a '71-'73 Mustang to drive around and really enjoy, I'd say take John's advice and find a nice Mach 1 instead.
  9. Well, at first glance, it looks like a sticker kit omage to the '69 Mach 1, but there are some real performance features there as well. I won't be getting one. I don't hate the look or idea, but a few things I would immediately change: The hood: swap on an aftermarket hood with '71-'73 style NACA ducts and adapt the TuTone treatment, rather than just a sliver of paint down the middle Smaller Mustang/Tri-Bar emblem in the grille, rather than the big pony Projector aux lights/amber halo DRLs instead of block-off plates in the grille Drop the Mach 1 emblems to the lower area of the fenders and run a black or argent hockey stripe starting from the top of the Mach 1 emblem - to match the hood TuTone Paint the rockers black or argent - to match the hood TuTone I'm not in love with the wheels (on either version)... probably change 'em, maybe not. The interior is pretty sharp - I don't know that I'd change a thing. Orange stripe Mach 1 seats are very cool - I almost wish they would've carried them over to the '71-'73s, but I like the Deluxe Seats from our model years, just the same. Something with that pattern would look cool in there as well. No, I'm not trying to turn it into a '71-'73 wannabe, either. Let's face it though - the '69-'70 Mach 1 styling cues are pretty boring and understated in comparison with the '71-'73s. As a result, most people don't associate "Mach 1" with '69-'70 Mustangs - they are more familiar with "Boss 302" or "Boss 429" for those years. When they hear "Mach 1," they automatically think of '71-'73s... regardless of the model (sportsroof, coupe, or vert - they're ALL Mach1s in most peoples' eyes). If you're going to do a throwback, might as well throwback to something people are more likely to remember. Just my thoughts.
  10. Old Air doesn't offer replacement factory style HVAC units? If you do go with the CAA, once you get the old HVAC out, the Perfect Fit HVAC unit should go in quite easily (it's a bit smaller, actually). I'm not sure what kind (if any) adapters they might have for the factory ducting, but the flexi-tubes should be easy enough to run. Recommend pulling off the dash pad and cover to help with the installation. I installed mine when I had no windshield yet, and before I reinstalled the dashboard, so it was super easy for me. If you do go that route, I would recommend getting one of their control units - it'll be a direct plug-n-play installation, as opposed to installing a set of slider-adapters for the factory style controls, then having to calibrate them before first use (DO NOT LOSE THE LITTLE GREEN PLUG-IN CALIBRATION THINGIE FOR THE CONTROL UNIT!! Ask me how I know). Hope this helps.
  11. That's encouraging! I installed mine, charged it up, and struggled finding the right belt set-up (with idler pulley, et al). Now that I have all the components, it's too dang hot to work on it (triple-digits for the foreseeable future in West Texas) and I've gotten a bit lazy over the years since I pretty much just hop in the car on weekends only every now and then. I have so many little nit-noid things to do to mine, but finding that optimal time (and pleasant temperatures) to work on it when I'm not actually busy with something else is a major challenge. Even so - I lost my calibration card at some point, and haven't really chased down a new one yet. CAA said they'd send me a new one for $35 (Geez!), but then also slipped that it's 'green,' not 'red' like I thought. Time to go looking for a 'green' one this time, I guess. I know... first world problems.
  12. Correct - but you can easily swap a 3-groove crank pulley just the same. That's one of the 4 pieces of the puzzle (A/C compressor, factory idler pulley assembly, 3-groove crank pulley, and adapter bracket - and a belt, of course). I pulled mine from an A/C equipped parts car (but no A/C or idler pulley available - they must've forgotten the crank pulley). Check with Don at OMS to see if he's got one to offer, find one from a parts car, or check ebay... otherwise, CAA has them for sale (for JUST $150 - geez, they're proud of those things).
  13. Jason, I believe you are correct (the link won't open for me here at work, but I figured it out by staring at this picture for hours, thinking I could make my own... but then found it on their Original Air Group site and ordered one, too). You can clearly see the 'bent piece of flat stock' bracket joining both the idler pulley assembly and the Sanden air compressor together - just like with Mezell29's post toward the top of the thread (he has a prettier shiny bolt, though). And before anybody asks, the article said that the Monte Carlo bar is custom. I know... I want one, too.
  14. I don't have the information, but would be interested to hear as well, since I've got the same set-up (but not completely installed yet - just the pulleys & belt). One trick would be to take a piece of string and wrap it around the path to measure, then get the belt that's the closest in size, and adjust the tension from there. I still can't believe CAA sold me my system thinking that it's better to just add the A/C pulley into the circuit with the power steering pump, rather than just tell me I would need a 3-groove crank pulley, factory idler pulley assembly, and a small adapter bracket that could've been added-in by simply walking across the hall to 'Original Air Group' to get those factory style parts. Oh well.

About Us

7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.

Site Navigation

Forums
Gallery
7173 Wiki
Blogs
Clubs

7173logo_small.png

Site Info

Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help customize your user experience here on 7173Mustangs.com. You can adjust your cookie settings to your preferences if you like, otherwise we'll assume that you're okay to continue.