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Mister 4x4

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Mister 4x4 last won the day on May 27

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About Mister 4x4

  • Birthday 12/31/1967

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    1971 Mustang Mach 1

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    San Angelo, Texas
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  1. I'll fire up my MacBook Pro later this evening and see if I can get the same issues - I haven't used it in forever (my buddy fished it out of a dumpster, I fixed it, and he gave it to me when his daughter couldn't figure it out... I just use it for traveling anymore). I typically use Chrome (even on the Dumpster Mac) and have noticed that Safari occasionally behaves differently, depending on the website. Interesting you mention the planned obsolescence - I took DM to the Apple Store in San Antonio back in 2009 after I first acquired it (it's an A1206 15" from 2008 and had a smoked stripe in the LCD, that the previous owner simply decided to just throw away), and picked up a new battery and power supply - great customer service and enjoyable experience. When I went back about 5 years ago (Dang, it's been THAT long), I went back to that same Apple Store to get another battery and some more RAM... to which I was told the machine was no longer supported, they were surprised it still even runs, it was definitely NOT upgradable, and they couldn't help me. Are you effin' kidding me?! It's a $2800 laptop!! I was pissed. So, about a month after being told by the snarky hipsters that Dumpster Mac was no longer supportable, I did a little research, got online, and later jammed in 6GB of RAM and a new battery I found at NewEgg.com. Then the fun began: it took a little bit of time and IT Guy trickery, but I upgraded the original OSX to El Capitan. It now runs like a scalded dog once again - after just 2 afternoons of upgrading from Leopard 10.5, to Snow Leopard 10.6, then updating that to 10.6.8, performing a BIOS flash (to accept the new RAM and prepare for the nextgen MacOS), then finally finding macOS El Capitan 10.11 to download and install. Nothing like the feeling of prolonging the life of a basically 'free' $2800 laptop... especially after being told by so-called experts that it can't be done. I think the idea of planned obsolescence is not necessarily a horrible thing - within reason of course, but when we're talking about several thousand dollars of investment for equipment that still has lots of life available, I have issues with the more proprietary companies pulling that crap. It's not like the replacements are any cheaper or anything. It probably has something to do with my affection for old (read: "not disposable") cars... Why can't something that's still operationally sound and perfectly good continue to be of service and/or enjoyed - much like our cars? I guess I'm just weird or something. ;)
  2. Here's one from the Cragar camp. I have 15x8s up front with 245/60R15 Cooper Cobras, and 15x10s (5.25" backspacing) out back with 295/50R15 Cobras (along with my old school Lakewood traction bars, too). I love my big ol' fat tires out back.
  3. My pleasure. Regarding the 'don't fix it if it ain't broke' sentiment: mine was broken beyond repair when I got it, so I decided to modernize as I brought it back from the dead. All said and done, I think I probably only spent around $30 more for the electric pump set-up than a mechanical pump, but then again, the mechanical pump didn't fit into my plans for EFI, anyway... so that would've been money wasted.
  4. I have rubber grommets between the pump housing and the frame rail/mounting points. It's really not loud at all - like I said, I like actually hearing it run when I first hop in to start it up, and then I never hear it again. If it does start making more noise, that's a good indicator that it might be time to think about replacing it (I also have a spare in a bag in the trunk, just in case).
  5. That's the same speed sensor I got for my AOD - the 19-tooth gear from the FMX fits just fine, too.
  6. When I built mine, after having to crank, and crank, and crank with my '80 CJ-7 [and its mechanical pump] before it would catch and fire after sitting for months and weeks on-end, I decided I would be going with an electric fuel pump - this car will never be a daily driver, after all. It also played into my plan of eliminating as much parasitic drag on the engine [to free up more power] by taking the mechanical fuel pump out of the equation to go along with 'roller everything' (my theory, anyway). I originally went with a Holley Blue rotary vane pump, but it was just too loud, so I switched to a Holley Mighty Mite 12-427 32 GPH unit ( https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-427 ). This site said it's a good pump, but really loud ( https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/38374/electric-fuel-pump ) but I only notice it making any noise when I first hop in, turn the key to 'On,' and it starts priming the line - usually only takes a second or two. Honestly, I like hearing that - when the sound subsides, I know I can just tap the gas once, turn the key to 'Start,' and it'll fire right up. I mounted mine in the driver side rear wheel well, between the inner wheel house and frame, and made a nice shroud for it to keep the rock damage to a minimum. So far, so good!
  7. SO glad to see you back at this, Scott! Hey, if you need any advice on how to put it all back together, hit me up - I learned from the best! I love the Raam Mat - it's amazing how much of a difference it makes. I know when you tap on the roof of mine, it sounds like a freaken tank!
  8. Awesome! I have the same exhaust system on mine. Love it!
  9. I swapped out the points dizzy for an OE style Duraspark distributor and ignition module along with an Accel Super Coil. I used an adapter harness from NPD and wired it up according to the Mustang Steve directions and haven't looked back since. The good thing about Duraspark over MSD (or other HEI-style dizzies) is that you can still fit the Ram Air air cleaners without any modification, as well as the parts are available at any parts stores, since Ford used Duraspark into the '90s.
  10. Mine was missing the outer 'flap & seal' portion when I first got it, so I picked up a reproduction flip-open unit with the inner twist cap. The inner cap only has thumb ridges around the circumference, and is not easy to get completely sealed, or back off again once on. I did find a Stant replacement cap at O'Reilly's with some tabs, but they won't let the flap close - stops about a 1/4" short. With some minor trimming of the tabs, I'm pretty sure I can make that work, but it's just a matter of trial & error and finding time between other projects. Having the tabs will help greatly, but aside from threatening to wear the fingerprints off your fingers, the inner twist caps with the repops work just fine.
  11. How very odd... I haven't worn a tie in years. LOL!
  12. If the Hooker Comps are the same configuration for both 2V & 4V engines, you shouldn't have any issues. Here's my 351C-2V with Hooker Comps and AOD, fitted up to a Pypes 2.5" stainless exhaust w/X-pipe. I kept the 2V heads, but there's not too much 'stock' left in there. ;) They're close, but I haven't had any heat issues, as the ceramic-coating really keeps the temps low (the laser thermometer at various points on each of the headers hasn't seen over 250 degrees). Hope this helps!
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