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Mister 4x4

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Mister 4x4 last won the day on September 11

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About Mister 4x4

  • Birthday 12/31/1967

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    1971 Mustang Mach 1


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    San Angelo, Texas
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  1. It sounds like he said he's not planning on hockey stripes. I was originally planning on hockey stripes for mine (since my rocker bright strips were damaged), but after seeing almost every '71-'73 with hockey stripes & spoilers, I decided to be different and stick with the 'no stripe/no spoilers' look. Oddly enough, as one who believes in making how you like, my car is actually pretty much stock except for louvers, wheels, and other non-cosmetic mods. Personally, I think the white/argent looks awesome! Kind of softens things a bit - a lot like Lazarus's car: subtle, but still there.
  2. Wow - I've never had issues with any Grant wheels. My Jeep has a Challenger-series (no issues), my Mach 1 has a foam grip version of the wheel in the original post, and my '82 Mustang also had a Challenger-series (granted, the horn button was on the signal stalk - glad they moved away from that design).
  3. My AOD came out of an '89 GT w/3.00:1 rear gears, which coincidentally is what came in my '71 H-Code. No issues off the line... then again, I'm not racing it, either. Hooker Comp Headers fit just fine. The factory FMX crossmember could use a little more trimming, but still clears with a big notch. Hope this helps.
  4. I just reused the FMX cross member. I'd bought a Ron Morris cross member and it fit like crap. Wound up just notching the FMX piece, since the AOD's valve body/pan is a bit bigger than the FMX. But to do it over again, I would've taken a little more material out of the 'flare' piece, as it's a little close to the pan (but not so much that it's an issue). Also, I'm not sure which engine you're using, but I had to get a different flex plate for mine, going from my 351C to the '89 Mustang GT AOD I went with. I used the '89 torque converter, and since the '89 GT also had 3.00:1 rear gears, it was a direct drop-in for me. Here's the problematic Ron Morris cross member. Won't fit in the standard holes for the FMX piece and wound up not level. Can't have that. I notched the FMX piece... And it fits WAY better (imagine that). This is the part of the FMX piece I would've trimmed a little better. Not a problem... just doesn't look like it wouldn't be. Hope that helps!
  5. Mine originally was 'The Rustang.' But after I got it back from the painter, my wife said I can't call it that anymore. I asked what she suggested, and she said, "Frankenstang." Since I brought it back from the dead... using some parts from other cars... and under the hood you can still see some of the 'scars' (welds) from when I put him back together. Seems fair enough to me.
  6. Well, Treyvnd was the originator of the thread asking if anybody had any louvers for sale... and the car in his original post is not his. Just FYI. Yes, they are aluminum - not plastic. I can't explain why they look like they're unlatched at the bottom, other than maybe the latch mechanism is 'thicker' than the hinge mechanism. I thought I might've installed them incorrectly, but after seeing others, I'm thinking not. It's latched, comes open easily with a flat-blade screwdriver and quarter turn on each side, and the trunk lid doesn't hit them. Works for me. I had a set on my '82 Mustang (with hatchback glass) that were much bigger, and these are quite similar (having a frame that was stuck to the glass, used quarter-turn fasteners down low with hinges at the top, and I had zero issues with outward visibility. The ones on the '82 had a prop-rod, however... but that was back in the late-'80s when things were made a bit different. After looking closer at my desktop wallpaper, I noticed that you can just barely make out the horizontal slates through the rear glass - barely. That's how minimal the impact to outward visibility is.
  7. Works for me - that's what I'm doing right now. I joined the USAF in Oct 1986, stayed until Oct 1996, wandered the world aimlessly as a Defense Contractor for 11 years (only things I have to show for that time are 7 different company polos hanging in the closet and a couple of orphaned 401Ks), then hired on to Civil Service in Sep 2007. A little over 6 years to go, and I'm done! Being presented with a squadron mentorship award that I actually designed in Oct 1996 just before I got out.
  8. I got the same Summit Racing kit Kevin (and others) did - the kit is complete with mounting hardware (the hinges and latches pretty much stick onto the glass). They don't go all the way to the bottom of the window, but then again, who cares - that part doesn't need the shade that bad, anyway. They also don't hamper rear vis at all - just horizontal lines you barely even notice once they're there. The worst thing they do is rip a thread or two out of the duster when I use it if I'm not careful. I added a couple pieces of windlace to the last slat 'just in case' the trunk lid got too close... and it never does. This isn't even the best picture to illustrate how virtually invisible they become from the driver seat, but you can see inside from the rear quite nicely. I like it because it adds to the 'Day Two - Old School' restomod look. Big fat raised white letter tires on Cragars, louvers, louder than stock mufflers with headers, Lakewood 'slapper' traction bars, and what more do ya need (well... power windows & locks, AM/FM/BT/USB Retrosound stereo, modern HVAC, an AOD, and LEDs... but nobody can really tell with those, since they're not cosmetic). I can slap the pizza cutters back on and it'll look pretty near factory fresh. But why would I want to?
  9. My entire interior was pretty much shot, so I just cleaned-up/restored the hard parts, and ordered pretty much all of the repop pieces available at the time (there are more to choose from, now... of course). The dash pad fits just fine for a driver quality car, IMHO. I know I'll never win any purist or MCA awards, but I do have over a dozen local car show awards that say it's a hit. Here's Day One: After I got it all back together with repop pieces: Repop dash pad fits just mine, IMHO... and as I've always said, "Woodgrain is for Country Squire Station Wagons." LOL!
  10. I see lots of good advice to help Idaho Chris get his console sorted, but just like with most Windows utilities, there are at least 8 different ways to skin the cat. I got lucky with mine since the interior was Deluxe Black, which lends itself to matching things up MUCH easier than with other colors. Throw in years (decades) of age, sun fade & weathering, and now you have several completely different shades of (insert interior color here) going on. The SEM colors are truly awesome, and work VERY well - that's what I went with... but it really only works IF you need to refresh ALL of the color in the interior... again, depending on which colors we're talking about. It will most likely not match perfectly straight out of the can because of those age factors... which is why you're having issues matching things up, and also why Greg made the suggestion of getting the color-match done by someone with the right equipment. Usually, a paint store and/or painter won't charge for scanning to get the right mix, but even so, it won't be much, and will save a TON of trial & error in the long run. My paint shop guy had all of the same equipment and matched up the paint for my Jeep and Mustang perfectly - not a penny charged, either (of course, the paint wasn't cheap, so I'm sure it works out in the end). Oven cleaner can be a mixed bag, depending on what you go with (again, so many different kinds to choose from - some can even melt the texture, as they're designed for metal surfaces). Dawn dishwashing soap is an awesome degreaser, but just as bad if you don't get it all removed. Lacquer thinner?! I suppose... but I've never had to go with such a harsh evaporative chemical after getting it clean with with the dish soap treatment. SEM Products are also designed to be used as a system, with surface prep, adhesion promoters, texture enhancement, and colors. I refinished all of my interior pieces (old & new 'repop' pieces) at the same to ensure they all came out the same shade of black (again, tough to mess that up, but there really ARE about 600 shades of black, just like with every other color). The surface prep and adhesion promoter actually softens the plastic (yes, kind of 'melts' it a little) so the texture enhancement and paint actually stick a bit better, since you're not using primer. I made a melty thumb print on a test piece to learn that little nugget (be careful handling the pieces throughout the process). Thanks to my airbrushing experience, I've discovered House of Kolors Surface Prep pretty much replaces the need for anything else once the old surface has been stripped and cleaned. It's a mild soapy-like degreaser than won't do anything except remove grease, oils, and other adhesion-preventing substances. A good degreaser that is plastic-friendly is WAY better than harsh solvents. Make sure to follow the directions, have as dust-free of an environment as possible, and use a tack cloth just before you spray the first coat of whatever, and you're golden.
  11. So far so good, however it's easy to keep it nice leaving it in the garage all the time. This past year's been a bit of a whirlwind for me - highlights: Boss retired (and I was selected to replace him - yes, with a promotion), bought another Jeep (to harvest the driveline to upgrade mine about a year ago), my dog died just about year ago, then Mom got sick and wound up in the hospital and later nursing home, had to clear her apartment from Sep-Dec, then she died on 15 Jan, right when my buddy showed up to do the engine swap on the Jeeps (his is now running, mine's still apart), then the whole 'Texas Snowpocalype' thing in February (we only had 2.5 hours or power over 5 days during snow and sub-zero temps), then some major water main breaks in town right after that, then decided I needed a new truck over Jul 4th, then went to OKC to pick up 2 rescue dogs, and waiting for the temps to come back down before I start working on stuff again.
  12. Greg! Brother! Great to hear from you again! Bummer on the bumper crunch, but I know you'll get it sorted soonest. Kevin's already working an angle to have his Mach 1 back (maybe even with a different VIN - just hafta wait and see what he comes up with.) - just sucks that he has to go through it in the first place.
  13. I'll fire up my MacBook Pro later this evening and see if I can get the same issues - I haven't used it in forever (my buddy fished it out of a dumpster, I fixed it, and he gave it to me when his daughter couldn't figure it out... I just use it for traveling anymore). I typically use Chrome (even on the Dumpster Mac) and have noticed that Safari occasionally behaves differently, depending on the website. Interesting you mention the planned obsolescence - I took DM to the Apple Store in San Antonio back in 2009 after I first acquired it (it's an A1206 15" from 2008 and had a smoked stripe in the LCD, that the previous owner simply decided to just throw away), and picked up a new battery and power supply - great customer service and enjoyable experience. When I went back about 5 years ago (Dang, it's been THAT long), I went back to that same Apple Store to get another battery and some more RAM... to which I was told the machine was no longer supported, they were surprised it still even runs, it was definitely NOT upgradable, and they couldn't help me. Are you effin' kidding me?! It's a $2800 laptop!! I was pissed. So, about a month after being told by the snarky hipsters that Dumpster Mac was no longer supportable, I did a little research, got online, and later jammed in 6GB of RAM and a new battery I found at NewEgg.com. Then the fun began: it took a little bit of time and IT Guy trickery, but I upgraded the original OSX to El Capitan. It now runs like a scalded dog once again - after just 2 afternoons of upgrading from Leopard 10.5, to Snow Leopard 10.6, then updating that to 10.6.8, performing a BIOS flash (to accept the new RAM and prepare for the nextgen MacOS), then finally finding macOS El Capitan 10.11 to download and install. Nothing like the feeling of prolonging the life of a basically 'free' $2800 laptop... especially after being told by so-called experts that it can't be done. I think the idea of planned obsolescence is not necessarily a horrible thing - within reason of course, but when we're talking about several thousand dollars of investment for equipment that still has lots of life available, I have issues with the more proprietary companies pulling that crap. It's not like the replacements are any cheaper or anything. It probably has something to do with my affection for old (read: "not disposable") cars... Why can't something that's still operationally sound and perfectly good continue to be of service and/or enjoyed - much like our cars? I guess I'm just weird or something. ;)
  14. Here's one from the Cragar camp. I have 15x8s up front with 245/60R15 Cooper Cobras, and 15x10s (5.25" backspacing) out back with 295/50R15 Cobras (along with my old school Lakewood traction bars, too). I love my big ol' fat tires out back.
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