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Mister 4x4

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Posts posted by Mister 4x4

  1. I'll fire up my MacBook Pro later this evening and see if I can get the same issues - I haven't used it in forever (my buddy fished it out of a dumpster, I fixed it, and he gave it to me when his daughter couldn't figure it out... I just use it for traveling anymore).

    I typically use Chrome (even on the Dumpster Mac) and have noticed that Safari occasionally behaves differently, depending on the website.


    Interesting you mention the planned obsolescence - I took DM to the Apple Store in San Antonio back in 2009 after I first acquired it (it's an A1206 15" from 2008 and had a smoked stripe in the LCD, that the previous owner simply decided to just throw away), and picked up a new battery and power supply - great customer service and enjoyable experience.  When I went back about 5 years ago (Dang, it's been THAT long), I went back to that same Apple Store to get another battery and some more RAM... to which I was told the machine was no longer supported, they were surprised it still even runs, it was definitely NOT upgradable, and they couldn't help me.  Are you effin' kidding me?!  It's a $2800 laptop!!  I was pissed.  So, about a month after being told by the snarky hipsters that Dumpster Mac was no longer supportable, I did a little research, got online, and later jammed in 6GB of RAM and a new battery I found at NewEgg.com.  Then the fun began: it took a little bit of time and IT Guy trickery, but I upgraded the original OSX to El Capitan. It now runs like a scalded dog once again - after just 2 afternoons of upgrading from Leopard 10.5, to Snow Leopard 10.6, then updating that to 10.6.8, performing a BIOS flash (to accept the new RAM and prepare for the nextgen MacOS), then finally finding macOS El Capitan 10.11 to download and install.

    Nothing like the feeling of prolonging the life of a basically 'free' $2800 laptop... especially after being told by so-called experts that it can't be done.  I think the idea of planned obsolescence is not necessarily a horrible thing - within reason of course, but when we're talking about several thousand dollars of investment for equipment that still has lots of life available, I have issues with the more proprietary companies pulling that crap.  It's not like the replacements are any cheaper or anything.  It probably has something to do with my affection for old (read: "not disposable") cars... Why can't something that's still operationally sound and perfectly good continue to be of service and/or enjoyed - much like our cars?  I guess I'm just weird or something. ;)

  2. 7 hours ago, RC92234 said:


    My pleasure.

    Regarding the 'don't fix it if it ain't broke' sentiment: mine was broken beyond repair when I got it, so I decided to modernize as I brought it back from the dead.  All said and done, I think I probably only spent around $30 more for the electric pump set-up than a mechanical pump, but then again, the mechanical pump didn't fit into my plans for EFI, anyway... so that would've been money wasted.

    • Like 1
  3. Just now, Fabrice said:

    Regarding pump noises... Do not screw the pump hard on frame if you want it to be quiet. Insulate with rubber, or place it in a casing that is floating inside an insulated case screwed hard on the frame. I know mine supposed to be noisy according to some on holley sniper forum, makes only noise when the car has been parked for over a week. It then revs more than usually while building up the pressure, some high pitch for 1 or 2 secs. After that no more.

    I have rubber grommets between the pump housing and the frame rail/mounting points.  It's really not loud at all - like I said, I like actually hearing it run when I first hop in to start it up, and then I never hear it again.  If it does start making more noise, that's a good indicator that it might be time to think about replacing it (I also have a spare in a bag in the trunk, just in case).

  4. When I built mine, after having to crank, and crank, and crank with my '80 CJ-7 [and its mechanical pump] before it would catch and fire after sitting for months and weeks on-end, I decided I would be going with an electric fuel pump - this car will never be a daily driver, after all.  It also played into my plan of eliminating as much parasitic drag on the engine [to free up more power] by taking the mechanical fuel pump out of the equation to go along with 'roller everything' (my theory, anyway).  I originally went with a Holley Blue rotary vane pump, but it was just too loud, so I switched to a Holley Mighty Mite 12-427 32 GPH unit ( https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/carbureted_fuel_pumps/carbureted_electric_fuel_pumps/parts/12-427 ).  This site said it's a good pump, but really loud ( https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/38374/electric-fuel-pump ) but I only notice it making any noise when I first hop in, turn the key to 'On,' and it starts priming the line - usually only takes a second or two.  Honestly, I like hearing that - when the sound subsides, I know I can just tap the gas once, turn the key to 'Start,' and it'll fire right up.

    I mounted mine in the driver side rear wheel well, between the inner wheel house and frame, and made a nice shroud for it to keep the rock damage to a minimum.  So far, so good!



    • Like 1
  5. I swapped out the points dizzy for an OE style Duraspark distributor and ignition module along with an Accel Super Coil.  I used an adapter harness from NPD and wired it up according to the Mustang Steve directions and haven't looked back since.  The good thing about Duraspark over MSD (or other HEI-style dizzies) is that you can still fit the Ram Air air cleaners without any modification, as well as the parts are available at any parts stores, since Ford used Duraspark into the '90s.

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  6. Mine was missing the outer 'flap & seal' portion when I first got it, so I picked up a reproduction flip-open unit with the inner twist cap.  The inner cap only has thumb ridges around the circumference, and is not easy to get completely sealed, or back off again once on. 

    I did find a Stant replacement cap at O'Reilly's with some tabs, but they won't let the flap close - stops about a 1/4" short.  With some minor trimming of the tabs, I'm pretty sure I can make that work, but it's just a matter of trial & error and finding time between other projects.  Having the tabs will help greatly, but aside from threatening to wear the fingerprints off your fingers, the inner twist caps with the repops work just fine.

  7. If the Hooker Comps are the same configuration for both 2V & 4V engines, you shouldn't have any issues.  Here's my 351C-2V with Hooker Comps and AOD, fitted up to a Pypes 2.5" stainless exhaust w/X-pipe.  I kept the 2V heads, but there's not too much 'stock' left in there. ;)






    They're close, but I haven't had any heat issues, as the ceramic-coating really keeps the temps low (the laser thermometer at various points on each of the headers hasn't seen over 250 degrees).

    Hope this helps!

  8. I remember seeing tons of '70 Mustangs (mostly Boss 302s) as the topics of articles in Mustang Monthly way back when (probably because the editor, Donald Farr, had one at the time).

    Funny you should mention 'Falcon.'  I've been trying to come up with a clever zinger relating the 'classic Mustangs' to being not much more than new carpet & drapes on a Falcon chassis. :banana:

  9. 56 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

    Mustang purist are not going to like our years because when the Mustang first came out it was supposed to be a light weight "nimble" car. From 1964 on, the Mustangs grew and gained a lot of weight so they could fit bigger engines. That's just the way it is. I like my car and don't worry or care about it.

    My only dislike is how bad was the management of external water throughout the car, but I guess that was the "normal" in the 70s.

    Considering that the 'huge increase in size & weight' is measured by just a few inches and couple hundred pounds, I'd say the 'vintage Mustang snobs' need to pull the stick out a little.  They also technically started getting bigger and heavier in '69, but the '69-'70s are still revered.  I would also think with as much as there is for anything Shelby, '71-'73s would have the love, considered how much the noses are alike.

  10. On 5/1/2021 at 3:04 PM, jpaz said:

    The original relay harness I bought got ruined in my accident. I don’t remember where I got them, but it was before I knew that Rocketman sold them. But the one I have now was replaced by the shop that repaired my car and I have no idea where they got them from. From the pics you posted compared to mine the light looks pretty much the same to me.

    I think you might've gotten the same one I did, but I can't remember if I grabbed it from NPD or CJPP.  https://www.npdlink.com/product/headlight-power-upgrade-harness-for-two-headlight-vehicles/208636/200546

    Right now, I have a set of Scott Drake halogens (https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-headlight-halogen-fomoco-mustang-1965-1968-1970-1973/p/HL4/), and while they're a LOT brighter than the standard OEM replacements, they're basically just vintage lights that aren't very bright at all (compared to what's available these days, that is).  I also picked up a set of these so I can run H4s (G.E. SilverStars, to be specific), which should pretty much take of any lighting issues.

    I also know I need to pick up another relay harness for my '80 CJ-7, so I can run some G.E. SilverStars in it when I get it back on the road.

  11. I was born and raised in Sandy, Utah, a suburb of SLC (and no, I am not... you know you were wondering).  Faced with no money for college after high school, I joined the Air Force thinking I'd do my 4 years, get the GI Bill, and get back to SLC to attend the University of Utah Architecture program.  Along the way, I got orders for Izmir, Turkey, and absolutely loved being overseas.  Then I had a follow-on assignment slated for Ghedi-Torre AB, Italy (just outside of Brescia), and had to re-enlist to take it.  So, I did... thinking I'd take the opportunity to see some more of the world on Uncle Sam's dime.  Yeah... well, after they packed my stuff and sent it to Italy, I went home on leave and was notified they cancelled my assignment and were instead sending me to Goodfellow AFB in San Angelo, Texas.  Well, crap.  OK - burn some time there, maybe get another overseas assignment, finish out my new enlistment period, then go home and go to school.  Nope.  Met my wife, got out of the Air Force and took a contractor job on-base, she later got out, then I took a Civil Service position, and here I am still in San Angelo, Texas... since Jan 1991 and looking to retire in another 7 years.  Still not my favorite place in the world to be, but I don't hate it nearly as much as when I was first deposited here.  If all things were right in the world, I'd be back in Sandy, but we all know how that's going.

  12. I have a set in mine, and like the others mention they don't fit very well... but I was in a hurry to get my car done, so they're still in there - ill-fitting, and all.  I used the SEM black metallic paint & process to at least get them to the right color.  But, they're in the back seat area where nobody ever sits, and are WAY better than the mangled ones I pulled out after I first got my Mach 1, so I'm not sweatin' the small stuff.  One day when I get froggy, I'll pull 'em out and try to make them fit a bit better.

    And just like the others, I am not endorsing these panels, or recommending anybody get them, either.

  13. On 9/12/2020 at 5:04 PM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    If you simple rework your housings you will be amazed how much brighter they are cost maybe $10.00. The housings turn brown inside and get chalky. If you blast them with low pressure and sand or walnut shells and then spray with Krylon Fusion satin white paint they look brand new. I have done several sets and also side marker lights. I did the black out also. The only pic I have with lights on is just a flash at the end of a video when I go to reverse. 
    I hate people that go to LED that is way too bright I want to just crash into them. Headlights or tail lights.






    Those are very nice, David.  And you're right about simply cleaning up and refreshing the 'reflective' surfaces - makes a ton of difference.

    I know my tail light lenses suffer from 'still holding together, but cracks running everywhere,' that show up in direct sunlight despite being almost invisible when not. I just scored a handful of some new ones, which I'll be cleaning up and prepping to stuff in some of the Vintage LED panels - best of both worlds.  It won't be quite as cool as the 'Obsidian tail light mod' that I still really want, but at least they'll be bright, sequential across all-three segments, and won't have any more cracks.

    This is what I have - the driver side is worse, actually:


    And this is what I'm talking about with the Obsidian tail light mod - remember these?  Yeah... still makes me mad, but damn they're cool:


  14. I think most of the things I don't like about the '71-'73s can be remedied with some subtle changes.  The biggest being the tail lights - I've never really liked them, and always thought that they could've done a better job of making something fit the design a little better (for instance, the Cougar tail lights they tossed upside down into the Cougar's chrome bumpers would've looked WAY better on these cars - although, they were awfully Trans Am-esque, so that explains why they didn't go that direction).  The trapezoid shape is hit or miss for me (some days I hate it, others not so much), but the lack of a functional middle segment is just wrong (also would've better to leave the reverse lights on the valance).  Fortunately, toss in a set of LED inserts and that issue goes away.

    Other than that, I can't think of much I'd change.  I love the seats, but agree they could use better side bolsters, so I got a set of TMI Products Sport Seats.  I love the interior, but wasn't a fan of the wood grain, so I went with carbon fiber trim.  Body flex issues, got some sub-frame connectors.

    I think about the only thing I'd do different with my Mach 1, would be to get a 'vert - I didn't realize how much I like the 'verts until after I'd seen so many cool cars on this site.  Maybe my Mach 1 will have a stable-mate one day.

  15. Why do they call them 'apartments,' if they're so close together?

    Why is it called a 'hot water heater,' isn't the hot water already hot?

    Just for fun, last week I put a humidifier and a de-humidifier in a room and let 'em fight it out.

    "What I like best though is you guys cannot pronounce Jaguar ... we find that funny as hell  ! ! !   :classic_biggrin:"

    Yeah... "Jag-yoo-Argh."  From the same people that can't pronounce "Aluminum."  (How in the Hell do you get "Al-yoo-min-ee-um" out of that, anyway?) :rofl:

    • LOL 2
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