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Mister 4x4

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Everything posted by Mister 4x4

  1. I'm running my factory H-Code (2V) heads with an Edelbrock Performer 4bbl intake topped with a matching Edelbrock 1406 Performer 4bbl carb. Did some mild port and polish on the heads with a 3-angle valve job, roller-everything with a mid-range CompCams bumpstick, blowing the gasses out thru Hooker headers and 2.5" stainless exhaust with X-pipe. It's a beast - CompCams CamQuest utility says to expect around 400-ish at the crank, and it feels like every bit of it is there. The good thing is with a small head distributor (mine's a Duraspark), the Ram Air Air Cleaner fits like factory. If factory appearance is important, make sure the intake is painted the same blue as the engine block & heads, then once the factory style air cleaner is on, it'll be hard to tell the difference.
  2. I'm thinking along the lines of swapping to a higher output alternator, but I don't want to run into what midlife described (gotta rev to engage) as I noticed a few weekends ago when I was driving in the twilight hours, when the lights were on, the voltmeter's reading was right at or below '12' at idle, the stereo sound went fuzzy, and the signal light didn't want to flash... however, once I stepped on the gas, it all 'brightened back up,' and everything was good again. That's with a stock alternator as well, so I definitely need an electrical source upgrade. All I had 'on' was the engine, electric fuel pump, Retrosound radio (no amp yet) and the lights with the windows down (no A/C, either). I'm still working on the motivation to get my fuel injection and A/C idler arm installed, which will tax the power output when running, along with using the power windows, but once I install the H4 headlights and headlight relay harness, that might 'free up' some of the load on the alternator (but essentially just transfer it to increased recharging for the battery when the lights are on, I know). Any recommendations on which factory style and/or 3G units to go with?
  3. Correct on the Dexron/Mercon. If the noise is limited to OD, you probably have some internal stuff going bad, since the OD is basically its own gear-reduction process (hopefully, it's just a band or clutch pack). Refresh the memory: was the AOD new, rebuilt, or just swapped when you made the change?
  4. Hey Doc! I went with a complete set of whichever ones Don (OMS) sells (in fact, I think almost my whole interior except for the cut-pile carpet and TMI Sport seats came from OMS). They were not bad to work with, just needed a little bit of tweaking of the factory grab handles to fit properly. They also didn't come with the chrome strip trim that separates the carpet from the vinyl. Make sure to get the 'long' door panel clips as well (not the 'short ones').
  5. I had similar issues (minus the noise) early on when I had too much slack in the TV cable - it wanted to get to OD as quickly as possible, then almost refused to kick down when I needed it to move out. After I saw a video where the TV cable was simply set to 'no slack/no pressure' from the factory, I did the same to mine and it's been perfect ever since (granted, I probably don't drive mine as much as you do). Could your TV cable adjustment have slipped its setting and gone a little slack? Like Rob said, I would definitely look into dropping the pan to change the fluid & filter (and to observe any bits & pieces). Good luck, Brutha!
  6. Welcome back, guys! Glad to see the familiar faces and awesome cars, and hear that everybody's doing well!
  7. That's something I noticed as well, looking at pictures of the different year models. They probably had to go with new dies after wearing out the originals making so many Mustangs, and decided to embellish those areas a little bit thinking into the future. I know the dies tend to wear out after so many stampings - that's the big reason why all of the older Jeep CJs with 'Jeep' stamped on the lower front tubs wound up with decals, since the dies were wearing out and looking more like 'Joop.' They finally went with 'Joop' as the stampings with 'Jeep' decals for the '87 YJs and never went back.
  8. Let me know how this goes - mine's back together and functional, but it's always been a little hinky - even though I used the best parts between the two columns, they all still are a bit worn, of course. There's a thread on the old site with the part numbers needed to swap in an Ididit column - they don't make direct-fit kits for our cars [of course] but one of our members used a universal kit with some parts to get it working. I might just go that route eventually. I'm intrigued by the push button start, rather than having the keys flopping about - but I go back and forth on whether I really want to change things up THAT far.
  9. Sorry Man, I don't think they're available. I bought what I thought was a 'good' one from ebay, and then a few days later it snapped off a piece that fortunately, was different from the broken piece in my original column. I was able to make a good one out of two broken ones, essentially. You might check with Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply - he might have some columns for parting out in his stash of old parts cars.
  10. I got curious enough to go look, and agree with Midlife. However, the following years still had the side "C-scoop" indentations, just with different forms of trim pieces in the area. The '64 1/2 - '65s were usually unadorned, the '66s had a bright metal piece with a couple of scallops, the '67s had a 'fake functional intake vent,' and the '68s went back to a simple bright piece with scallops. The "C-scoop" indentations went away for '69, but still had some newer 'fake functional intake vents' in the same area on the hardtops. They finally went away altogether in 1970. The devil's in the details. In '67, they changed the Tri-bar Pony and Mustang letters on the fenders - stretched out the letters and lowered them. Then changed to the cursive like 'Mustang' script letters. Interesting how they changed this or that from year to year. I know [in general] we can usually pick out the subtle differences between our '71-'73s, but maybe not notice as much details with the other models, and then seem disappointed when the VMFs can't tell the obvious things apart... then see how they get irritated when other can't tell their favorite year models apart (shoe being on the other foot, and all). I guess that's the downside of having so many split-off factions from the mainstream.
  11. Anywhere between '64 1/2 and '68, I'd say. I can't tell the hardtops apart for those years without seeing the nose or taillight panel.
  12. Here's a diagram I used when I rebuilt mine - provided by one of the members years ago (not sure who posted it up way back then).
  13. Totally understand - not all of these cars came with them. It's cool seeing all of the different solutions, as well.
  14. I replaced the ammeter with a Bosch voltmeter, same as the one above. I completely disassembled the Bosch gauge and simply replaced the factory gauge with the 'guts' of the Bosch gauge - no crazy fabrication needed. The big difference I see between mine and the others shown here is the direct mounting of the aftermarket gauges to the 3-gauge cluster trim panel, rather than mounted into a factory 3-gauge cluster which would then be mounted to dashboard, with the trim panel installed over it.
  15. Totally understand, and makes perfect sense. I was just keyed-in on your use of 'ANY,' since I have a 7-blade fan (from an earlier run, of course). I'm not trying to argue semantics, either. Thanks for sharing.
  16. Care to elaborate on why one should never use ANY seven blade fan? I have one from a 63 1/2 Galaxie 500 XL and it's GREAT!
  17. Actually convinced the wife to go for a ride last night. We went to Sonic for some root beer floats & corn dogs, then took some of the same over to my Mom's place. Pulled up to her place right about sunset, then remembered that I still need to aim the headlights and discovered one of the LEDs in the speedometer needs a reseat as well. Driving along with all the lights on and noticing the voltmeter's reading just about 12.5V says everything seems to be working OK, but when the RPMs drop back to idle, it seems to struggle for juice. Might be time for a newer, high-output 1-wire alternator, along with the H4 headlights and headlight relay circuit installation. It sucks kind of having to 'feel my way home in the dark.' Fortunately, there was hardly any traffic. Still - had a great time... she seemed to enjoy it as well.
  18. SWEET! Welcome from West Texas! Nice ride! Gotta love them Cragars! The one I fell in love with when I was 14 back in '82 was a Grabber Yellow/Ginger Interior '71 Mach 1 with a 302/auto - nice combination! I also swapped in an AOD behind my 351C - easy-peasy. What rear gears do you have? The beauty of the AOD is that it shares the same 1-2-3 internal ratios with the FMX, so you're basically just getting overdrive out of the deal. For me, that worked out fine since mine has 3.00 gears, and so did the '89 5.0 my AOD came from (no performance loss, in other words). Can't wait to hear and see more about your car!
  19. And there ya go - general consensus is that if you monkey with things no matter how subtle or 'invisible,' you'll mess up the car and bring down 'the value.' Well, they're really not worth anything until the day of the sale... or the insurance adjustment, if that's the case. Just like any other investment, you won't see any return value until you cash out. If that's the goal - go for it, I say. If you're really not worried about 'numbers-matching,' or 'concourse condition,' look into getting a 'lesser' model, adding some performance mods and have something even more potent than a Boss 351. I know mine is pushing 400hp at the crank - if I'd gone with a 4-speed and 3.50 or better gears. I'm pretty sure I could smoke a Boss 351 in short order (not a goal of mine by any means, of course). Even with an AOD and 3.00 gears, it moves out smartly and is a lot of fun to drive. The sky's the limit with restomodding - go as crazy or conservative as you like and come out ahead of the game, while not dicing up a rare and/or collectible car. My mods are mostly performance enhancing with some period-correct cosmetic mods, because I wanted what I would've built back in the '80s had I been able to have one back then. One more piece of advice (that you kind of eluded to in your original post): always start with the best car you can afford, but make sure it fits into your plan so you don't over-buy and wind up back-tracking. For instance, if you have a specific color in mind, maybe that one with the faded paint turns out to be the best deal (since a color change is planned anyway). Some folks will buy an I-6 or 302 car to build a race car, then drop in a big-block or Coyote 5.0... or one with an automatic and swap-in a manual. Build it how you like - you'll just enjoy it just that much more.
  20. Other than being in that exclusive club and everything that comes with owning such a rare car, there's really no benefit to having a Boss 351, IMHO. As John eluded to, you're not really buying a 'car' anymore, but rather an investment into a piece of history. Sure, you might fire it up for a quick burn around the block or even on/off a trailer for an event or a car show every now and then - but if you're wanting a '71-'73 Mustang to drive around and really enjoy, I'd say take John's advice and find a nice Mach 1 instead.
  21. Well, at first glance, it looks like a sticker kit omage to the '69 Mach 1, but there are some real performance features there as well. I won't be getting one. I don't hate the look or idea, but a few things I would immediately change: The hood: swap on an aftermarket hood with '71-'73 style NACA ducts and adapt the TuTone treatment, rather than just a sliver of paint down the middle Smaller Mustang/Tri-Bar emblem in the grille, rather than the big pony Projector aux lights/amber halo DRLs instead of block-off plates in the grille Drop the Mach 1 emblems to the lower area of the fenders and run a black or argent hockey stripe starting from the top of the Mach 1 emblem - to match the hood TuTone Paint the rockers black or argent - to match the hood TuTone I'm not in love with the wheels (on either version)... probably change 'em, maybe not. The interior is pretty sharp - I don't know that I'd change a thing. Orange stripe Mach 1 seats are very cool - I almost wish they would've carried them over to the '71-'73s, but I like the Deluxe Seats from our model years, just the same. Something with that pattern would look cool in there as well. No, I'm not trying to turn it into a '71-'73 wannabe, either. Let's face it though - the '69-'70 Mach 1 styling cues are pretty boring and understated in comparison with the '71-'73s. As a result, most people don't associate "Mach 1" with '69-'70 Mustangs - they are more familiar with "Boss 302" or "Boss 429" for those years. When they hear "Mach 1," they automatically think of '71-'73s... regardless of the model (sportsroof, coupe, or vert - they're ALL Mach1s in most peoples' eyes). If you're going to do a throwback, might as well throwback to something people are more likely to remember. Just my thoughts.
  22. Old Air doesn't offer replacement factory style HVAC units? If you do go with the CAA, once you get the old HVAC out, the Perfect Fit HVAC unit should go in quite easily (it's a bit smaller, actually). I'm not sure what kind (if any) adapters they might have for the factory ducting, but the flexi-tubes should be easy enough to run. Recommend pulling off the dash pad and cover to help with the installation. I installed mine when I had no windshield yet, and before I reinstalled the dashboard, so it was super easy for me. If you do go that route, I would recommend getting one of their control units - it'll be a direct plug-n-play installation, as opposed to installing a set of slider-adapters for the factory style controls, then having to calibrate them before first use (DO NOT LOSE THE LITTLE GREEN PLUG-IN CALIBRATION THINGIE FOR THE CONTROL UNIT!! Ask me how I know). Hope this helps.
  23. That's encouraging! I installed mine, charged it up, and struggled finding the right belt set-up (with idler pulley, et al). Now that I have all the components, it's too dang hot to work on it (triple-digits for the foreseeable future in West Texas) and I've gotten a bit lazy over the years since I pretty much just hop in the car on weekends only every now and then. I have so many little nit-noid things to do to mine, but finding that optimal time (and pleasant temperatures) to work on it when I'm not actually busy with something else is a major challenge. Even so - I lost my calibration card at some point, and haven't really chased down a new one yet. CAA said they'd send me a new one for $35 (Geez!), but then also slipped that it's 'green,' not 'red' like I thought. Time to go looking for a 'green' one this time, I guess. I know... first world problems. 😉
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