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jjr329

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jjr329 last won the day on May 4 2014

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About jjr329

  • Birthday 03/29/1982

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1
    2008 VW GTI

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  • Location
    North Aurora, IL
  • Region
    Central

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

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  1. Nice, glad my thread is helping others. :) I haven't had any problems since.
  2. Ouch sorry to hear. I use state farm for insurance and it runs me $173 per year for $30,000 agreed value full coverage. You may want to look into that once you get her back on the road.
  3. Ended up being the shift kit was not installed properly and the valve body gasket was bad (blown out between the two rectangular ports). Waiting for my buddy to come over to do some final adjustments but it moves again and I have all my gears back! Thanks for your help.
  4. Car was hit while parked by a drunk driver. I'm sure insurance covered it or at least most of it. This Mustang was parked in his driveway one night when suddenly he heard a loud crash! When he ran out the front door in the pitch black darkness of the night he noticed a drunk driver passed out at the wheel after hitting the Mustang. The drunk driver could not negotiate the corner due to his high rate of speed went through the owners yard and hit his beloved Stang. This car was especially important to him as his mother bought it for him years before and now she was in failing health. Sadly, she passed away while we were doing the exterior restoration however the first place he drove it after picking it up from us was to her grave site. We know she is happy looking down from heaven.So lets enjoy this segment we will call Mach 1 Mustangs Done Bubba Style!
  5. With the silver/clear lens or without? I'm working on installing new gauges without the pod so I might be freeing mine up this week.
  6. From the side of the trans. One side goes into the trans and is held in with a 7/8" nut, the other goes into the neutral safety switch/kick down rod.
  7. I believe the car came with a C6. It is a Q code, although the motor was blown at the dragstrip by one of the previous owners and is now a 2V with Aussie Powerheads. Shift rod is about 17 3/4" long: IMG_20130807_212217_900 by JJR329, on Flickr Bottom of shifter (nasty, and there were popcorn kernels in there as well): IMG_20130807_212153_672 by JJR329, on Flickr Connector bar: IMG_20130807_212047_552 by JJR329, on Flickr The bushing was paper thin and what was left just literally turned to dust: IMG_20130807_212146_785 by JJR329, on Flickr This bushing needs to be replaced too. It doesn't sit flush and looks like its starting to come apart: IMG_20130807_212108_914 by JJR329, on Flickr
  8. I was trying to adjust it myself. I'm going to have a buddy come over and try again. If I still have trouble I think I'll pull it out to take a photo so we can ID it. The cars had at least 5 owners and who knows how many different people that have worked on it over the years, there could be wrong parts on it. I've been looking for new seals for the selector shaft. Chasing down part #s has been a pain. Finally found what should work on ebay, inner and outer for $8.
  9. The leak is coming from the selector shaft. The NSS was only hand tight, also the selector shaft outer seal looked like it wasn't seated right. So I pulled and inspected it, still nice and soft with no cuts or nicks and just put it back together for now. It sounds like the inner can be replaced with the trans in the car. To me it looks like both the inner and outer seals are leaking, so if I can find a kit I'll just replace both. I didn't get a chance to play with the modulator. I messed around with the linkage and something still wasn't right. If I got the needle to line up with the center of any of PRND21 I then didn't have all the gears because the detents weren't lined up right. So I put it back the way it was for now. Can the shifter be adjusted inside the car as well? I noticed a nut under the shifter bezel. The shifter has side to side play, is that the bushings bad?
  10. I'll check the lines on the trans and shifter shaft seals after work. I'll try and describe it better as well. 90% of the time 1st gear is not available to me. Doesn't matter if its in D or 1. There is no grinding or unusual noises. If I come to a complete stop in D, the car takes off in 2nd. If I stop and put it in 1, the car takes off in 2nd. If I'm in 2nd manually and a select 1 (while slowing down) it doesn't shift into 1st. Occasionally and randomly 1st will work. If it's in D and 1st does decide to work, I would say it works at an improper time, meaning it should have been in 1st already and upshifting to 2nd, but instead it was in 2nd and then downshifted to 1st and is now winding out 1st which would make me shift to 2nd manually for fear of something breaking if I leave it.
  11. I followed the standard operating procedure for checking the fluid, warmed up from driving, level surface, idling, go through the gears, etc. 1. My carb doesn't have the ford kickdown on it, so there's nothing I can do about that for the moment. That would only affect it dropping down from 3rd to 2nd on WOT, correct? 2. Correct, its way off. I don't even look at it, I go counting. Severe wear on what? The shift rods or something else? 3. Is that the small module on the back where I followed the hose to the carb? I was looking at replacements suspecting maybe its bad but there seem to be 4 kinds - green, blue, black, and red (adjustable) stripe. How do I know what I have? When I looked at it, it's color was "rust" lol. 6. The pan did not leak prior to filling it to normal. Is there something else higher up on the drivers side that could leak? I'm going to be doing a new filter and gasket anyway since I dropped the pan. 7. Cooler is not stock and is external to the aluminum radiator I have, so that's not it. Thanks for the responses so far.
  12. Sorry if this seems kind of long...trying to include anything pertinent. 1973 Mach 1 351C C6 - stock rebuild est around 2000, B&M 2400 converter installed in 2004 as well as a B&M shift improver kit. I estimate no more than 3000 miles on it in that time (most of that time the car was in pieces). As long as I can remember I've had to manually shift the car. Specifically coming to a stop and then accelerating again the car would not be in the right gear and would stall, especially when cold. So I manually go from D to 2 to 1 when coming to a stop. I should note that the shifter is "off" in the car. Meaning the selector doesn't actually line up perfectly (ok it's way off) with PRND21. The car only starts in N and not in P. It has a newer NSS circa 2009. Lately the trans has been acting funky. I had a misfire and some other engine maint stuff going on so I wasn't really concerned until I fixed all the engine stuff. I did plugs, wires, rotor, cap and an oil change. Electronic ignition so no points or condenser to worry about. So I take it for a test drive and it seems to act more unusual than it had been. Specifically if I'm in 1st I'm not necessarily in 1st, I'm actually in 2nd. While accelerating from a stop being in 2nd but 1st selected after about 100ft the trans decides that hey you really wanted me in 1st and it dropped down to 1st and then let me shift into 2nd manually. And then not back down to 1st at the next light. It kept seeming like 1st was just a suggestion and if it felt like it, it would make it available, otherwise 2nd or 3rd only. So I get home and think gee I haven't check the trans fluid in a long time. Mind you it does not leak (or at least didn't prior to today). So I did the standard practice for checking fluid level and there was nothing on the stick. It ended up taking 2.25 quarts to bring it back up to normal level (added slowly and after re-warming it up). I do have a cooler and a deeper pan if that matters any. Adding the fluid didn't change the behavior at all. So today I figure I might as well get it over with and drop the pan to see how bad the damage is. First thing I notice is trans fluid on the garage floor, that's unusual as it's never leaked before. So I drain the fluid (pan has a plug) and it comes out looking perfect. Nice color and no contaminants and no burnt smell. Pan is as clean as a whistle. That's good news but not what I was expecting to come out given how it's been driving. Drivers side of pan and linkage a little wet: IMG_20130805_201510_821 by JJR329, on Flickr Magnetic drain plug: IMG_20130805_201918_144 by JJR329, on Flickr And the filter, other than a couple "grains of sand" looks perfect: IMG_20130805_211429_976 by JJR329, on Flickr If you look in the linkage pic there appears to be something not even hooked up. Is that the kick down linkage? I followed what looks like vacuum hose (looks pretty old) off the trans to a hard line that continues into a "T" that goes to the choke (I think) and the front metering block on the carb. I pulled the line and it was dry with no evidence of fluid being sucked in. So I'm not sure where to go from here. What would cause the leak to suddenly appear now that it was filled? I checked it hot, went through the gears, and with it idling so I don't think it's overfilled. What do I do with that linkage? How do I fix the shifter alignment and can the start only in N problem be fixed? Thanks!
  13. Only took a couple min to get the new rubber gasket in. Pushed the new gasket in and then used a little marine grease in the gasket and neck to slide it right in. Piece of cake!
  14. I tried to siphon out old gas a long time ago and I could never get the tube into the tank. I ended up pulling the line at the tank and got it that way.
  15. My trunk is clean as a whistle so I won't be blowing myself up. Good info for others that might not have thought of that!
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