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72Mach168Cam

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Everything posted by 72Mach168Cam

  1. That's a fact Jack! Ours has nowhere near the rust (only floor pan) and the current guess-timate to get a rolling painted shell 6-8 months from now stands at 18k. Our starting point was $1200, I couldn't imagine a starting point of 20k, whew! If the original drivetrain were with this car that may be a different story for the right person.
  2. The engine harness underdash connector. It is a tach/gauges optioned Mustang if that makes a difference.THANKS Don! As a side note I need to put in a sheet metal order later this week or first thing next week Don. In addition I need to solve the problem that was discovered with the passenger rocker panel. It seems there is no reproduction part. Ours isn't rusty, it's bent and dented. If a suitable donor isn't found, it will just need to be "fixed". The body guy said it would be cheaper to replace. He's restored several earlier Mustangs, but no 71-73's and isn't aware of the lack of reproduction parts for this vintage.
  3. Thanks a bunch Jay! I found his website. If it looks like I'd be in over my head doing the harness restoration myself, I'll definitely contract it out to Midlife Harness. He'll be the first contact I make to see about a new connector for the engine harness. Or any other parts needed. Thanks again for the tip.
  4. Thanks all! Family First! I endeavor to persevere (Chief Dan George). We have many projects to accomplish while the body is away from home. Even though our shop is small (1000 sq.ft.) I can't get over the huge space we now have available. The first and biggest project (I think) will be the wire harness sections. I plan to put a sheet or two of plywood on a pair of saw horses where the Mustang sat for 10 years and lay the harness out for inspection and repair. The engine bay harness needs the most attention. The firewall connector/plug was so brittle with age, several pieces crumbled and fell off while unplugging it. That is the biggest problem with the engine harness. I imagine we'll have to buy a whole used harness to get that part. The underdash harness looks in good condition with minimal hacking for one aftermarket stereo. The Mach 1 is a tach and gauges Mustang. So I hope no major issues are found with this harness. The door speaker harness is gone from the passenger side (different door) and cut short from the drivers side. I did see while reading another build that a member of this forum has nos set(s), but I imagine those are worth quite a bit. I think it would be nice to locate a factory AM/8 track to finish the "look". But we may just get one of those units that are vintage looking with blue tooth capability as that is what my wife would like to install. The SEM painting of plastic parts will have to wait for warmer spring weather. Now would be a good time to make a list of things to do during the Mach 1's absence.
  5. Thanks! Where did you get your replacement rocker panels?
  6. The passenger rocker panel on my wife's 72 Mach 1 needs replacement due to old accident damage that was repaired some time ago. Looking for a reproduction part I found a website that offers a replacement part. Does anyone have experience with macsautoparts? Is this a suitable replacement? Or is a donor car a better option? Thanks. https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mustang/ford-mustang-rocker-panel-outer-right-all-models-419037.html
  7. It isn't that great of a picture. It does look worse in person. Our bodyman said the metal is "stretched" badly and that it would require more labor than replacing the whole 1/4. Sure wish I had the skills to do the parts replacing myself as this project has now blown out the budget I had in mind. But I really want this for my wife. So it will be done. I could go on and on as to why I am in a hurry to fix up my wife's Mustang. I'll explain it as simply as possible. Maybe there will be some readers that would get it and most may not; I owe my wife a lot for sticking with me as long as she did through the years of my alcoholism. I am in my 18th month of sobriety and I am trying to make up for lost time. That is it in a nutshell.
  8. Visited the bodyshop today. Good news and bad news. But it's all fixable....by a professional. It got a bit more expensive, which will add an unknown time to completion. The previously replaced passenger quarter panel that was discovered during teardown is good to go. But the drivers quarter is toast, it's all wrinkly, its gotta go. Passenger rocker is also getting replaced, its bent. The missing seams have reappeared.
  9. A pic of the Mustang on the trailer from the other day. The bodyshop called and said the Mustang is done being "blasted" down to bare steel and we are planning a trip to the bodyshop tomorrow to have a look. I hope there is enough metal left after the primer/bondo and rust are gone. Will post pics tomorrow.
  10. I finished fabbing wooden coil spring replacements. The 4x4 blocks ended up being 11" in length. I installed two 5/16X2" lag screws through the lower shock mount holes. I used a piece of scrap aluminum across the top of the shock tower with another 5/16X2 lag screw to attach the top of the block of wood. With the help of a neighbor we rolled the camaro out of the shop and used some HF wheel dollies to move the Mach 1 so it too could go out the door. Between picking up the uhaul car trailer, installing wooden coil spring replacements, moving "stuff" out of the way, assembling HF wheel dollies, moving two cars out of the shop and using a come-along to winch the Camaro back in the shop it took about 6 hours. We ran out of daylight and have to load the Mach 1 onto the trailer this morning. Today is the day! The Mach 1 is taking a huge leap toward the ultimate goal of being streetable again. It may have antiquated steering, suspension, brakes and drivetrain. But it will not be mistaken for anything else on the road. My wife's 1972 Ford Mustang Mach 1 will boast of its American pedigree with its unique body style. Its contours, curves and steel muscle car bulk will speak to the heart of yesteryear that resides within those of us that remember what it was like to not have to seek out emblems to identify make, model and brand. As we lie awake in bed last night my wife spoke of how she felt like it was Christmas eve. Such as it felt when she was a little girl. I only wish I had the knowledge and skills that many posess on this forum to truly restore the entire Mustang ourselves. I do not, I am only a fair wrench turner. Therefore we must contract out the bodywork and paint. It won't go any faster as this is a huge financial undertaking. The time to reassemble will be dictated by how much we can afford to buy parts. Fortunately we will be able to refurbish many parts ourselves.
  11. It's a great tool! Get one you won't be disappointed. I too have a thing for tools and also maintenance manuals.
  12. On the use of the DazeCars spring compressor tool; I used Rem Oil to keep the threaded rod lubed to prevent galling. The big nut is 1 1/4" and the two nuts on the welded bolts are 9/16". When installing the nuts at the lower shock mount holes I had to use a wrench to tighten the nut on the outboard welded bolt/stud. The tolerances were too tight to use a socket. When flipping it 180 degrees on the drivers side the nut would not install on the welded bolt as it was too close to the spring perch. I had flipped it 180 because the threaded rod was touching the upper shock tower mount bracket. So I flipped it back and did not have any interference with the threaded rod and the upper shock support bracket. It might be a stack up of tolerances or the drivers side of the cars suspension is crooked (there is evidence of accident damage on this side of the car). Although the threaded rod never really is centered on either side. Also I supported the rotor/spindle with a milk crate when unbolting the spring perch from the A-arm to keep the suspension from dropping before I unbolted the A-arm. The directions noted that the spring only needs to be compressed 3-4 inches. I did an eyeball measurement until I felt it was compressed enough, then I measured from the center of the bearing hub to the floor. At 21 inches that was just right. The bottom of the frame to the floor measurement with the car on jackstands was 21.75 inches. After the spring and perch were removed from the upper a-arm I was concerned, that while the directions stated to loosen the nut to remove compressed spring tension I thought that the whole assembly would just spin. It did not and worked great. I highly recommend this tool. Having never removed coil springs from a Ford before and never using a spring tool like this one it was easy and safe.
  13. Old gasoline....STINKS...BAD! Got that out of the way. Hard to believe there would be anything left in the lines after almost 30 years of being off the road and no gas tank for at least half that. Probably mostly additives. Smelled like rotten varnish. Had to open all the windows and doors to the shop to ventilate. It was a comfortable 60 degrees in the shop and 34 outside. Almost done with teardown for the bodyshop. Removed fuel and brake lines on Saturday. The fuel vent line and brake lines were well documented for position and routing, but fuel line was not documented at all, it just got removed and tossed outside. Removed calipers, sway bar, motor mounts and coil springs today. I still have to fab up some wood blocks to replace springs and remove clutch/brake pedal assembly. There still is some window sealant that needs to be scraped. I'd just use acetone, but it's cold outside and I must be getting older, because I like the heaters in my shop. The Dazesprings tool worked great. A milk crate was used for support until I was ready to pull the upper A-arm. Original color; Ivy Glow... upload image
  14. The cobranda.com website sells complete sets. I considered this as a future option when my wife's Mach 1 is ready for wheels and tires. But after reading some of the posts, more research may be needed. I'll post a link for the set with 15X7 for the front and 15X8 for the rear. http://cobranda.com/15x715x8mixm.html
  15. Was this in Paypal or on the forum side? I believe the transition from paypal. As I think it was a message that briefly displayed "you will be returned to merchant site" or something like that just before the blank popup. I am using Safari on a Macbook. I did have to disable pop-up blocker due to an initial error message.
  16. When I hit the "continue" after entering cc info, name, address, email, etc. I ended up with a blank pop up. I waited several minutes and then closed it out. I then got a pop up message saying that I cancelled the transaction. So I added to cart a second time and received a second blank pop up after hitting continue. A light bulb lit up in my head (dim one), so I checked my email and found a confirmation of order email. So I guess one of them went through. Oops, hopefully not twice. Thanks for the site. I've learned a lot and have received much needed advice/help from forum members.
  17. Coil spring tool arrived today. Looks like a well made, quality tool. Can hardly wait to use it.
  18. Ordered the spring compressor from ebay. We have 13 days until our tentative scheduled date at the bodyshop. Hopefully by the time the tool arrives it is all that is left to do on my wife's Mach 1. I perused our bodyshop's FB page yesterday and noticed all the photos of his projects started with either mostly assembled or completely assembled vehicles. The shop owner knows we are bringing in a rolling shell. But I hope and I say this with pride, it shocks the heck out of his employees when they see my wife's Mach 1 arrive on a uhaul car trailer completely stripped with just the essentials to make it roll. My wife wanted to learn how to do bodywork and paint, but with the 12 year pause and little kids now, that isn't realistic.
  19. Thanks all. I have a long enough scrap piece of 4x4 for both sides.
  20. That is the one that I used after trying the ones at the local auto parts stores. Very easy to use, still gives a pucker when the springs creak but very safe. Good luck. Tom Very nice tool! Thanks!
  21. Thanks! Started removing brake components today. I emptied the master cylinder as much as possible. Also looped the power steering lines together. As a side note, I am somewhat anxious about removing the coil springs. I've done it before on my project car. But I was present when a friend of mine had a coil spring compressor tool break while removing springs from a Chevelle, many years ago. The spring cleared his head by a fraction of an inch as it flew across the shop. The echoes of it clanging and banging still can be heard in the back of my mind. That happened thirty years ago and I still vividly remember how "white" his face turned, which was followed by him dropping whatever tools he held and just walking out of the auto hobby shop at the base we were stationed together. It also looks like I'll be temporarily dropping the steering column to remove the clutch/brake pedal assembly. Anything to be aware of, other than removing hardware?
  22. Great idea on the 4x4 wood block, thanks! I do have a couple of 4x4 scrap pieces in the shop. You wouldn't happen to know the length that works on the 4x4? Would the Mustang still be loadable onto a car trailer without worrying(too much) about the block of wood popping out? Thanks!
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