Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 Mustang Grande'
    351 Cleveland
    FMX Automatic
    Ginger Interior


  • Location
  • Region

Personal Information

  • Sex

HOTY65's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. Two "Thumbs Up" on the aftermarket grille. Comparing it to the grille that was on the car, looked to be an exact match, and it looks awesome. There wasn't any fit or alignment issues at all once I got the headlight buckets where they needed to be for the holes to all line up. I love the grille, and money well spent. And again, on the grille headlight rims (headlight doors), when I got them I was impressed. High quality, cast aluminum, and they look great. It just puzzled me why they wouldn't include the screw and plastic anchor. Had to order it separate, and then the anchor don't fit. Here's a peak. There are still alignment adjustments that I need to get to as I continue getting it together.
  2. I had vacation time over Christmas and New Years, so I made real good progress reassembling the nose of the car. Again.... many, many hours in the garage! Then after January 2nd, I got stalled again until yesterday. I had box's of parts laying in waiting for install. Finally got a few hours yesterday. I had to replace the lower valance panel parking/turn signal lights and was thrilled that new replacement units were available. I began with attempting to install the driver's side unit. While trying to get the driver's side light lined up to drop in, one of the machine screw studs on the light housing fell off. My immediate reaction as I'm lying on my back under the car was 'NO F-ING WAY"! Come to find out the small machine screw studs are just spot welded onto the housing. The screw does have a fair size flat head on it, but the spot welds were almost worthless. So after studying on it for awhile, I finally drug out my welder and tacked the screws to the housing. I went ahead and did both lights. In hindsight, I'm actually glad it happened because my thinking is it was such a cheap setup, it would of broke later anyway. I had to replace my Valance panel and drivers fender. Overall, not terribly difficult, but there were, and still is alignment issues that I'm not pleased with and need worked out. But most of all it's the little snags that drive you nuts. I bought replacement chrome headlight rims, my opinion is they suck compared to the originals. I had to replace the driver's side headlight bucket assy, and of course the new headlight ring has fit and alignment issues with it. The ring on the passenger side with the original bucket assembly went on just fine without issue. The grille doesn't come with the chrome plastic "Pony Corral" trim in the center of the grille. Had to order it separate. It's supposed to be a simple snap on unit. Doesn't fit the grille right. So I had to do some epoxy and tie wraps until it sets up. I love it that we have so many aftermarket reproduction parts available but I'm becoming much more suspicious of the quality when I order parts.
  3. I'm in the process of getting the front end back together on my 1972 Grande. It's been no small task that's for sure. Here's what I'm up against right now, maybe one of you guys can save me some time if you've been here before. I had to replace my entire grille with an aftermarket unit. No Biggy, the replacement actually looks pretty sweet. It would of been sweeter if they would just include all of the parts that go with the grille assembly. I had to order the rims that encircle the headlights and attach to the grille. ( they call them "Headlamp Doors". Not sure why, they don't open or close???) So anyway, the screw and plastic anchor that hold the ring in place to the grille are not included. The hardware kit was listed with the ring, but sold separately. The snag is the screw looks correct, but the plastic anchor is WAY too small for the square hole it inserts into. see pic's:
  4. Must be a pretty common occurrence. My Dad went to back out of my driveway a few years ago in his 96 F150, and the clutch wouldn't engage. Suspecting damaged clutch pressure plate, got it home, tore into it and found it was full of mice nesting. It was also full of dog food, from where the mice were raiding the dog dinner bowl from the garage. It was just about this time of year when the rodents are seeking somewhere warm to shelter. That small vent hole in the bottom of the bell housing is just perfect for them to climb in and out.
  5. HOTY65

    Grande Pics

    So Cool! I've learned that most everybody quickly recognizes a 71-73 Fastback, but you usually get a double take from them when you pull up in a 71-73 coupe. I even had an older guy compliment my car once and stated that's he's not sure if he's seen a 72 "coupe" before. Said he loved the look. I think that sometimes seeing a car at just the right angle, in just the right setting, and maybe even just the right light, can create an everlasting impression. Our brains are trained to see the badness of a Mustang fastback, but the perceived compactness of a coupe makes your eye's and brain to have a fresh look. It will always be with me: It was right around 1978-1979, I was a "new" teenager, on the school bus at the High School dropping off the older kids, before we headed to the Jr High. I just turned my head to scan the parking lot, and there set a 69 Mustang. It was back far enough that I had almost an eye level view of it, but with it's prowler stance and those aggressive looking headlights I couldn't peel my eyes off of it. It wasn't even shining or glimmering, but it just looked BAD! And then later when I was 15, it was in the middle of summer, and me and a buddy were out in the country here in Ohio, travelling to the next town up the road. ( he had his license and an old Toyota). We came across this young guy in a sweet 68 fastback, pulled over with an guising radiator. We pulled over to help. Got his car cooled down and a water refill and enjoyed some friendly car gab. Once complete, he got it fired up and on his way. In that passing moment, I found my obsessive eyes stuck staring at that rear taillight panel. 39 years later, and I can close my eyes and see it just like it happened yesterday.
  6. Today I took a look at my old rusted battery tray, presuming it's original, and noticed that both sides had been pried out, probably to permit a battery with lower mounts like my Die Hard. The hold down clamps were missing and it needed a new battery when I bought the car. I went ahead and prepped and primered the new tray. At this point, I'm satisfied the issue is the battery, and not the part.
  7. That's great advice on the mouse proofing steps on the cowl. With my car being a 20 year garage find, my heater blower box was home to mice at one time. My cowl and blower had a pretty good collection of acorn shells and nesting. My biggest fear is them chewing on the wiring. They'll chew into anything. I keep plenty of glue traps down and even keep one in my car on the floor. I've been reading back through a lot of the old post and seen mentions of Daniel Carpenter parts, but wasn't aware of the website or the availability. I just pulled up their website. Again, thanks for the info. I've been relying on Ohio Mustang, CJPony parts, Dallas Mustang (now gone), and of course Ebay. Awesome to have good parts sources. My confidence on successfully rebuilding my car has developed considerably, not having to fear tackling different project issues. You guys make it all too easy. In correcting my cars issues, especially the body work, I'm trying to stick with my original parts as best I can, but you do reach a point where you just have to utilize replacement parts, and thank goodness, they are available, and decent quality. So far I've straightened damage to my radiator support and driver's side front fender apron, replaced the passenger side apron, and battery tray. I had to replace my driver side bumper bracket, as mine was bent up considerably and cracked. Now working on the headlight assemblies and grille supports. I've already begun to shift my thinking to my tail light panel, as mine, like so many others has some rust holes around the lights, and pretty good rust along the bottom. Up to this point there was no way I would consider replacing the whole panel, and intended to try and salvage and repair. But again, after reading, watching the video's, and doing a major body panel replacement up front,... I can do this, and it will turn out very good.
  8. So I bought a new battery tray. I had concerns when I ordered it after reading reviews from other buyers about the tray sizing. I received it, and thought I better size it up tonight before prepping it for primer and paint. Here's what I ended up with: I have a Sears Diehard battery, but it has the bottom battery clamp mount's , or whatever you would call them. It makes the total width of my battery 7-1/4" wide. The battery tray is only 7". So of course, as I feared. It doesn't fit. I'm sure I'm not the first to get snagged on this. Are there any options besides buying a different battery without the lower side mounts?
  9. By the way, I recall reading in one of the other threads about guys having issues with the sizing of the replacement battery tray's that are available. Just so that I don't have to bounce between threads to get an answer, does anybody have the scoop on getting the correct replacement tray ? Thanks.
  10. A little progress update from my last post: Before I begin, I spent a good deal of time taking measurements and studying over my front end subframe alignment. Not the easiest task, that's for sure. Trying to be sure that I am getting good spots to measure from is what I probably spent the most time on. I found the alignment holes back near the hood hinges. I did the cross diagonal measurements to the alignment holes on the far ends of the radiator support. I also transferred a line from the front edge of the rear holes, down the side of the car and then measured both sides to the front face of the car body (cab). Measured the same on both sides off the face. So I developed a little confidence that I could measure from them. I installed all-thread studs in the holes to give my tape measure something to grab onto. I was also able to pull a string from side to side, to establish a center point. I also stuck my magnetic laser level on the sides of the cab, pointing the laser up, and then measured to find the center of the car with a piece of tape on the windshield. I then pulled a string across between shock towers, measured from vertical flat to vertical flat again, to establish a center. In the end I found that my nose is kicked to the passenger side 1/4". I also checked the height of the radiator support corners from the underside of the frame-up, to make sure they are the same. They are within 1/16". Not happy about the 1/4" offset on the radiator support, but at this point I don't have the time to send it out to the frame shop to make it right. I'll just have to make adjustments as I reassemble to try and keep things in alignment for now. Down the road when I eventually do a full tear down and repaint, it'll get done then. Last Sunday I got the old fender apron removed. Since then I've been prepping for the replacement. Got a good dry fit on it today, and will weld it in tomorrow.
  11. My town, Heath just opened up a new Harbor Freight store a couple weeks ago. I did go there and check, they aren't carrying the spot weld bits at this time. They did have the 1/2" Bandfile Belt sander, but looked really cheap. And neither Lowes or Home Depot carry those mini belt sanders yet. I won't get any time tonight or tomorrow to work on it, but I'll have the old apron out of there on Sunday. I've got half of the welds broke now. The hole saw is designed for thin metal and does a really clean job. The 3" cutoff wheel is effective, but slower and creates a lot of dust and debris. I always had plans of doing all of this work slow and methodical, but my father recently put a bug in my ear that's altered my timeline a bit. He told me he'd like to drive the car once before he kicks the bucket. ( he's a month away from his 79th birthday, and had quadruple bypass surgery last winter ). He got excited when I bought the car back in 2015, but he didn't think I would take this long to get started on it. He raced cars in his youth, and loves old fords. He helped me do most of the work on my first 72 Mustang. It also reminds him of the 69 Cougar that he owned. My issue is I work a lot of overtime, I have 6 grandkids, help coach little league ball, and go to all of their other sports and school activities. And we also ride and race motocross and GP's when we can fit it in. But I'm committed and into it now. The Mustang is getting done.
  12. Getting through some of these spot welds is a bit of a chore. I'm having to use different tools to get the apron loose. Many of the spot welds aren't perfectly round, often oblong and upwards of a half inch long in places. Down the shock tower edge I used a 3" cutoff wheel to cut down the welds. Across the top edge I used a Milwaukee shockwave 7/8" hole saw. (uses a smaller pilot bit, looks to be 3/16" bit). I've also used drill bits and a grinder stone in a drill. I may order actual spot weld cutter bits today, just didn't feel like waiting for them to arrive to start the job. I'm having to do mine with the engine in the car as well which makes it a little tougher.
  13. You did a nice job on your install there. I've just begun removal of mine tonight, and noticed the absence of the holes in my replacement panel. I remember someone else mentioning this in another thread. Just curious, what method did you use to break all the spot welds? There's no shortage of them, that's for sure.
  14. Once again, great info here guys! I'm replacing my fender apron and needed the bracket as well. I couldn't find an active listing for the part anywhere, or on ebay. I did a "seller search" for "postaldan514" and found the guy. I contacted him, he promptly replied and had the bracket at my house in a couple of days. Outstanding!
  • Create New...