Jump to content

Lancelot72

Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Lancelot72

  • Birthday 06/03/1972

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1972 hardtop 351c

Location

  • Location
    San Antonio, Texas
  • Region
    Southwest

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Lancelot72's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

1

Reputation

  1. Hey everybody, It's been awhile since I have posted anything. A year ago I pulled the engine (351C v2) out of my 72 hardtop as the car went off to get painted. It was a running engine at the time so I was just planning on cleaning it up and getting a fresh coat of paint on it, However, (there always seems to be a "however") as I was cleaning it I noticed gaskets coming apart and other worrisome signs so I started breaking things down. In the long run the block, pistons, and heads all went to the machine shop. I have it all back now and all of the new parts I and throwing at it ready and waiting. However, I'm a noobe and have never built and engine before. I have a step by step book and other info but I'm a bit nervous. Is there anyone in the area willing to give me a day of their time to help a guy out. My garage is air conditioned if that helps. I live on the northwest side of town near the medical center. Just got the car back from paint also. Here are a couple pics.
  2. If you have a later 71 and you have just a single radiator to grille support bracket instead of the two that Matt showed in the post above I would be interested in it if he is not. Thanks, Lance
  3. I need a radiator to grille support bracket. It's the tall part under the hood latch. Is that available?
  4. I can't seem to find a description or part number for it anywhere. I'm not even sure what to call it. It's the tall vertical support that is under the Hood latch and bracket. This pic is from the "72 car shop manual volume IV Body". I am in need of a replacement. If anyone could assist me in finding one (maybe just telling me what to call it so I can search for it better) or if anyone has one they are willing to part with please let me know.
  5. I have two body panels up for sale. Re-pop front passenger fender was bent in shipping, (four inches of the top back corner are bent at a 90deg angle and the front corner from the bottom of the wheel well to the upper front corner are creased badly. Maybe the rest of the sheet metal is the portion you need? Re-pop rear lower qtr panel not bent at all, just a few surface scratches in the primer coat. I can send pics if requested. I don't need these, and I need the space they are taking up. I'm in San Antonio, TX and would prefer not to have to ship them anywhere. Let me know if you are interested. Make me an offer... Please Lance at 314-496-6651
  6. I found that there was a vacuum port running from the front side of the intake manifold but the hose attached to it was stuck onto a hex shaped end of a bolt on the carburetor. That had to be a really good seal, lets put a hexagon in a round hole and hope none of the air gets by. :-/ I was thinking this might be the vacuum hose that should have been attached to the vacuum advance port. So I reattached it there. When I took it for a test drive the car was running like crap. so I pulled over and put the hose back where it was. She went back to normal. I have since capped off the port on the intake manifold and the vacuum advance port in the pick above. I also removed and capped off all of the vacuum hoses going to the AC/Heater. Hopefully I will get time to take her for a test drive and see if there is any difference. Maybe someone can tell me if the port on top of the vacuum advance is supposed to be connected to the port coming out of the front passengers side of the intake manifold. The engine is a 351c 2v. Thanks, Lance
  7. Thanks Jpaz. I have read that and it is on the list of things to do. Hopefully, In about a month we will be starting the big tear down for paint and the engine will be coming out at that time. I will make sure it is gone when the engine goes back in.
  8. I just noticed there is an empty vacuum port on top if the vacuum advance valve. Can anyone tell me if this should be plugged or if it should be connected somewhere else? http://www.lancelotsworkshop.com/images/forum/geraldine/20200221_110758b.jpg[/img]
  9. Wow! Kindig is proud of his parts! I wonder if you could use actual Tesla model 3 door handles. I looked on ebay. You can pick them up for about $100 each. They are electric switches instead of mechanical so you would need door lock actuators but they are cheap and if you are going to shave the locks anyway that seems like a cool way to go.
  10. It is the FMX Auto trans. The PO had the transmission rebuilt within the last year also.
  11. Thanks for all the replies. You guys have given me enough ideas on what to check next that I should be busy for a while. I'll keep you informed on what I find.
  12. Hey all, I'm having a problem with my car surging while at highway cruising speeds. I think it's anything above 40mph or so. I have read other posts about surging and haven't really found anything describing what I have. It's not threatening to die or cut out. It sounds great at idle. It does have a bad hesitation when accelerating from idle, but I don't know if that's a different issue or part of the same. It's a 351C 2v with a rebuilt 2 brl Carb that the PO installed within the last year. I have tried spraying a modest amount of carb cleaner around the vacuum lines to see if the engine would react but it never did. I'm a novice at engines and could really use some advice on what to try next. Thanks, Lance
  13. Hello all, Its been a few weeks since I got the rear end back under Geraldine so I have been putting this update off as I debate whether or not to share the HUGE mistake I made that could have been disastrous. Thankfully, God was watching out for us and all turned out well without any real damage. I'll get into all that a little later. (yeah, yeah, I know, I grabbed your attention and now I'm making you wait... That's Life. I have to keep my ratings up somehow. :D ) When I last left off I had pulled the rear end, inspected and put it all back together. I then took a wire wheel and other power tools to it. Once I had all the old finish off I primed it. I believe that was the last pic I posted. So here is one after paint. http://www.lancelotsworkshop.com/images/Forum/Geraldine/20200125_090300.jpg[/img] Here is a nice before and after that includes new springs and hardware. http://www.lancelotsworkshop.com/images/Forum/Geraldine/imAG2075.jpg[/img]http://www.lancelotsworkshop.com/images/Forum/Geraldine/20200125_165900.jpg[/img] I just want to say, the hardest thing to accomplish so far was getting the old rubber grommets out of the shackle perches at the rear of the leaf springs. I watched videos and searched for anything I could find on how to get those old bushings out. most of them showed using a drill to weaken and separate the rubber from the metal it is bonded to. The problem is there isn't much room between the perch and the gas tank on the inside and the perch and the body panel on the outside. You can't get a punch and hammer in there and you certainly cant get a drill in there I even tried a right angle attachment on a drill. It didn't fit either. My wife tried shoving a little shorty screwdriver in between the rubber and steel and wasn't having much luck but that got me to thinking. I sharpened the tip of the flathead stubby screwdriver. Then I used a long bladed utility knife to slice off the rubber lip on the outside of the grommet. That gave better access to the joint between the rubber and steel. I then had to shove the screwdriver in between and force it in over and over again all the way around the grommet. Finally with it shoved in at the bottom I would pull with all I had and pry the rubber out. Once it moved just a little bit, it could be worked the rest of the way out. Then repeat 3 more times. All together we spent almost three hours trying to get those nasty little buggers out of there. http://www.lancelotsworkshop.com/images/Forum/Geraldine/20200125_165949.jpg[/img] From there it all went together pretty smoothly. I had taken lots of pics of the drum brakes before I took them apart. With the aid of those pics and a little scratching of my head I got the brakes back together. We blead all four brakes. (Another first time thing for us.) and while I took care of other odds and ends Janet put the rims and tires back on. I had the thought that I need to go back and retighten those lugs, however I failed to do so. (There's a little foreshadowing of things to come.) We got Geraldine all back together and decided to take her for a short test drive around the neighborhood. She felt great! All the slop was gone out of the rear end. Before, you would feel the back end moving and any speed bump would make you bottom out. All that was gone. It even made the loose steering box feel a little better. However there was a problem, I kept hearing a sound that I could only describe as a metal gurgling. I stopped once and looked for anything that looked out of place. I couldn't find anything. As I went around the last corner about a half mile from our house I kept the speed up a little so I could feel how she handled in the corner. I felt something shift! I immediately pulled over. I looked all around and still couldn't find anything out of place. I got back in and started to go the last half mile back to the house but as soon as I started rolling I felt the driver side rear corner drop. I hit the brakes and stopped right there. when I got out I could tell that corner was sitting low. (Later Janet Who was in her car behind me said she saw the wheel wobble as it happened). When I looked underneath I could see the hub was out of the lug holes and sitting down on the inside of the rim. I don't know how it managed to stop there but I can't imagine all of the damage it would have done to the axle and body if it had come all the way off. when I pulled the hub cap off I found the mysterious "metal gurgling" sound. It was the five lug nuts bouncing inside of that dish plate sized hub cap. I jacked the car up and put it all back together. As far as I can tell the only damage done was a small pile of shaving that I think came from the lug holes on the rim. We are planning on new rims anyway so I am not too worried about that. I checked the other side and at most I only turned the lug nuts about a 1/4 further than what my wife had done. I running theory is that the brake drum was sitting a little off kilter when she put the rim on and that kept her from getting a good seat of the drum and rim. Even though she tightened them as soon as it started rolling it most likely loosened right up and as more lug nuts came off the sound got louder. I put the hubcaps back on which kept the nuts from being spread out along the 2 miles we had driven but I might have noticed the missing nuts if the caps had not been on. Who knows... We are ok. Geraldine is ok! and we have had her out a couple of times since then and all seems great. When I went back later and checked the nuts with my clicker style torque wrench I had Janet try to make it click. With her buck 25 frame she could not make it click when set at 100 ft lbs. Lesson learned, note to self, always check lug nuts with a torque wrench. One last thing for you northern guys to drool over. Here is a pick of Geraldine's unmolested unrestored trunk. (Got to love south Texas) http://www.lancelotsworkshop.com/images/Forum/Geraldine/20200125_104841.jpg[/img]
×
×
  • Create New...