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Gregaust

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Everything posted by Gregaust

  1. What was the converter to flexplate clearance? Did you replace the flexplate and by chance get a C6 one ? They are different .
  2. Linkage - Manual Control Assembly - C-6 for 1967 Mercury Cougar, 1968 Mercury Cougar, 1969 Mercury Cougar, 1967 Ford Mustang, 1968 Ford Mustang, 1969 Ford Mustang, Other Ford/Mercury at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)
  3. Linkage - Manual Control Assembly - C-6 for 1967 Mercury Cougar, 1968 Mercury Cougar, 1969 Mercury Cougar, 1967 Ford Mustang, 1968 Ford Mustang, 1969 Ford Mustang, Other Ford/Mercury at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)
  4. If you need floor shift there is a repro ??? Linkage - Manual Control Assembly - C-6 for 1967 Mercury Cougar, 1968 Mercury Cougar, 1969 Mercury Cougar, 1967 Ford Mustang, 1968 Ford Mustang, 1969 Ford Mustang, Other Ford/Mercury at West Coast Classic Cougar :: The Definitive 1967 - 1973 Mercury Cougar Parts Source (cougarpartscatalog.com)
  5. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69-70c-6arm.html
  6. Yes they are https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/69-70c-6arm.html
  7. If a street type tread , likely a 20 will do .. I have found a 275/60 drag radial a little taller than a street tyre and is best with 21
  8. 1/4-28 is the thread for fitting into case , the 5/16 inverted flare !/@-20 is the fitting for the line into the fitting
  9. Yes you will . Depending on tyre size a 20 or 21 for auto , manual may be bit different
  10. What sort of rebuild was it ? Was it built right or just new parts thrown at it with no other measuring or checks ? Was the valvebody aligned correctly when fitted ? Were any bushes changed ? Endfloat checks ? Clutch clearances ? Band adjustments ?
  11. As suggested . mark the nut prior to removal , retighten up to just past the marks is the safest
  12. Yes . Does the kickdown lever feel ok and spring back if moved ? The valvebody will need to be loosened , then locate the selector. On a C6 you can see up in therewith the pan off. It can be tricky to get the valvebody in to line up both the manual valve and kickdown as the valvebody is located and bolts started
  13. There is a one piece seal available also . From memory Jon Kaase sells it . It takes a single cut so as to slip it over the crank to fit .
  14. Sure sounds like the valvebody and manual linkage not aligned right . Can be tricky if you've not done it before . Need to get the manual valve in right , also the kickdown needs to slot into position at the same time
  15. Oh dear someone made a mess there , no wonder it was stuck
  16. Nice write up . FMX can be fiddly but are a good trans
  17. One way to I.D , is a brass gauze is the early style , Then they went to a dacron . 67-72, then 73 on seems to be one way to tell
  18. That's just the booby trap I needed to hear ... thx ... I'll check :jawdrop: ...is it year specific ? :chin: One way to I.D , is a brass gauze is the early style , Then they went to a dacron . 67-72, then 73 on seems to be one way to tell
  19. No so much line pressure , BUT the cooler pressure may indicate and issue . Pretty rare though for a C6 to have excessive converter pressure
  20. I like to use the Farpak gaskets with an Aluminum pan that has a solid flat pan flange , If a pressed steel pan I prefer the rubber/cork . BUT .Those must be retorqued after a few heat cycles
  21. Make sure you get the correct year filter , There is two different ones
  22. A good rubber/cork gasket works well . Don't try to torque it . Just nip it up firm with 1/4 drive socket . Retorque a few times after a few heat cycles will be fine . Trying to use a torque wrench will just bend the pan Ensure pan is flat around the holes . The Farpak gaskets are great with aluminium pans or late model steel pans with a ribbed face . not good on a steel c6 pan
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