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Posts posted by Ricard

  1. Geoff, thanks the blue is exactly what I’m going for.


    im on the fence about under the hood, it still needs one more good wash. It is dull but I am fairly confident it is original under the hood including a few of the stickers. But likely... I will end up painting it lol.


    whats that Eastwood paint worth per can? 

  2. So I recently pulled my 72 Q code (canadian car) engine out of my Mach1. Lucky.... vin numbers match. First sigh achieved. Engine is being professionally built. 

    Its tired, burning oil and lacks performance. So time for the build. 

    The Plan:

    likely it will be bored somewhere in the neighbourhood(correct spelling ;)) of 30 over but maybe more :/ I know, I know, they don’t like to big of a bore out. Obviously new pistons rings and all the other rotating assembly will be refreshed balanced replaced or upgraded. Fingers crossed it’s a 4 bolt main block as I understand it should be? I read on here sometimes ford just picked the next available motor... so it could be a 2 bolt main, mysteries abound  :/

    The engine is running the open chamber 4V cast iron heads, will be converted to a hydraulic cam shaft, likely a custom grind, adjustable roller rockers, with a proper valve job. Likely the heads will be left with stock deck heights and not ported.

    it already has a edelbrock performer intake, a stand alone msd ignition, long tube headers, and a Holley 650.

    looking to make some good street torque on pump gas. Car is a 4 speed and lives it’s life to and from the gym/work on nice summer days. 

    plan is to give it some what of a blend between a factory looking q code and a 71 boss engine. I like the way the sandblast finished aluminum valve covers look, and since it’s mine, I’ll do what appeals. 

    Engine is scheduled to be torn down on Wednesday so I should have some updates soon on how it looks. 

    Plan over the winter is to get the engine bay detailed and cleaned up to as close to original as time, money, skill and desire allow.

    (Bottom photo is what I’m going for, so basically just not polished valve covers and a red distributor, seems achievable :) )


    follow me on Instagram I’m posting it there too 







  3. Yeah it’s had a few things down to it. Definitely not exactly as optioned. 

    the interior is upgraded to deluxe, the rim blow wheel, the front bumper, to give it a boss sort of look. But it works for me, and I have almost all of the original parts too 

    • Like 1
  4. Ok, so coming in late... work... you know how it goes guys.


    well I was a little high, but it was about 3k to register it yes. Ontario taxes suck.


    its interesting how much this mustang was originally, I had 1of400 Canadian 1970 Cyclone GT’s  and it was only 4100$ in 70 and was extensively optioned. I guess ford really too the “response to European cars” to heart 

    I love this forum, I always learn so much. I understand the stock order now. That makes sense. 

    did anyone see the yellow 71 m code sell on Barrett-Jackson last night? 




  5. So the thing that I really find interesting about this car of mine is the fact that it was built for the showroom floor as it was optioned. 
    ie... not custom ordered and the only one made with those options

    Not sure how many other people have run into this, ford building a car without a special order as a “1of1”. I mean you certainly wouldn’t see that today. I’m sure that if you break things down far enough eventually they are all “1of1” or close to it, but interesting that it was optioned the way it was by ford to simply sit on the showroom floor. 

    The thing I don’t love... I paid more in taxes to register it in 2020 then it cost in 1972.😐






  6. Sorry to hear about your situation machattack. Thanks for sharing that video! Engine sounds smooths, takes me back to my first job putting engines on a dyno and setting them up for pulls.


    Stanglover, it’s so funny you mentioned it! I used the proper clamps, I sourced them at Napa just last week when I swapped out that fuel filter. Those little gear clamps, forgive the pun but I have to, GRIND MY GEARS! Lol


    So quick fuel sounds pretty universally loved around here

  7. Sorry for the late replies!


    The sending unit and tank are new and the lines are pretty fresh too.. might be a bit of the inside of the filter... maybe it was real old but I think I’ve got that portion of the issue sorted.


    I honestly wish I knew these tricks. Enough reading and maybe I’ll have some fundamentals down lol.


    I’m hearing good things about FST carbs. And I had ahold of the summit catalog the other day. What particular model of the summit would you suggest?


    There are ones I saw that look like Rochester style carbs and others that look like holleys

  8. Again thanks for all the advise. I’ve always run Holley carbs and quite frankly I’ve always had adjustment issues... but I guess I just keep going back to the same mistress again and again hoping for a different outcome!


    The quick fuel does sound interesting , as well as the summit carb, I’ll have to look into pricing. I never thought of the pump arm. I will give that a look and see what’s what there.


    I did change the fuel filter and found some bits of what I am pretty sure is the old float from a sending unit... I’m going to guess from 10+ years ago? I was thinking that could have been starving the motor because it was maybe settling at idle and being pushed up on acceleration, but it seems to be continuing so, at least the problem has been mitigated.


  9. Thanks guys, for the input. It’s definitely cool out today, 6degrees Celsius so it runs real nice once it warms up, I’m definitely thinking it’s starving for a bigger carb because when it was on chassis dyno, the race shop owner tuning it said the same and really “knows his stuff” . Probably should have just said order what you think works but we both thought we could get it close without opening the wallet to much more.


    That said no one knows better then the owners of these cars since you all have seen it and can probably completely understand this problem from the few words I write!



  10. This has probably been gone over before, but I figure heck, we all love to talk about our cars and since we can’t get out into the parking lots with the whole pandemic thing I’d like to open the floor up to opinions... that’s right fellas, not necessarily facts but opinions on what he best carb for the job would be?


    My car: 1972 351 CJ (4v) 4 speed

    Stock engine, except:

    Headman long tubes, edelbrock dual plane intake (I believe it’s square, but I guess if push comes to shove I’d need to confirm) MSD IGNITION drop in distributor, and a Holley 670 street avenger carb. 


    The carb has been set up and chassis dyno tuned for the car. That said it seems to bog down a bit from idle to first gear, meaning if I get on it to hard it sort of sputters. Car is right there otherwise. I’ve been told it’s almost too small of a carb so it was rejetted(carbs are vudu to me boys)so I does seem to smell a little rich.


    What are you guys running? What’s worth the investment? And what gives some room to grow should I choose to came it or a future rebuild. 



  11. Fox body pump? Interesting.


    I think I’m a little crazy, I’ve had it out about 200 miles since March 25th? So early with the mild winter and the now completely clean roads, so I drive it all the time.


    But that said you are right I am out a little early... later I. The year I’m hoping it will start and idle a little easier!



  12. Hey guys thanks for all the replies! I honestly didn’t k ow so much about tires... being an 87 model myself these tires are typically long out of service by the year of my birth lol.


    I will definitely check out the Torino montego forums!


    I use to own a 70 cyclone GT but I had no idea what tires were on it?


    Any other cars you guys think they would be right for? Other brands? GM, dodge?


    As always, Cheers!!

  13. That is spectacular stanglover! I feel

    Slightly vindicated that you don’t know what the green thing is called either and you probably built it lol!


    Thanks for the input!


    My manifolds were cracked so for economy reasons it was actually easier to make the switch to flowmaster long tubes.


    What do people think, does the hot air actually help the motor get warmed up sooner or is it sort of some 70s hocus pocus?


    I plan to go to efi in the not to distant future for drive ability ty

  14. I’m actually really proud of the green and red arrows... seems to have totally cleared it up!! Lol


    Actuator ok I’ll have to test it with a vacuum pump. I didn’t think of using a manual one.


    It’s plumbed to a temp switch of some kind an that makes sense as to why there is a space in the Cleaner for another hose ahead of the pax side pcv and behind the snorkel. 


    The “green thing” seems to work properly. Closed at idle, I’ll have to see if it opens when it’s accelerating. 


    Th aka for the replies fellas!

  15. Yup, seems impossible but I have a set of 4 new old stock NOS Firestone Wide  “O” Ovals.



    Set of 4.

    They still have the nipples on the tread, have never been mounted and one still has stickers on it.


    They were pulled out of a warehouse in Windsor Ontario... Ford Country! And one actually has a routing sticker on it(white) that states Hamilton Ontario.


    Maybe you are doing a concourse car or have some rare example and this would set it apart from others? Maybe you just love annoying your wife by hanging car stuff in your living room? I don’t know, but I don’t have a concourse car and the wife said no, so here they are, they are in fantastic shape and honestly, I would not be scared to put them on a car and drive it conservatively. They are still pretty soft.


    Pm me with an offer, they are worth some pretty good cash, have a google.


    I have a 72 Cj and 86 Camaro, maybe parts can sweeten the deal?


    Or maybe you know where else I could post these to sell them?


    Cheers! B468-E854-84-D7-4873-A320-5-F86-A5040-E38.jpg











  16. Alright, first attempt at a new thread, I’ve searched through the old threads and can’t seem to find the answer.


    In the picture you can see my 351 CJ. The original air cleaner has the flapper switch (red arrow) and whatever the heck the thing is that is in the green arrow? (You tell me?)


    Main question, the flapper valve is always open, I tried testing it by disconnecting the vacuum line from the green arrow um ... thing? And connecting it to the flapper valve, all it did was actuate the green arrow thing again as I heard a click and saw it move, but the flapper valve seems to stay open? Is there a better way to test this? To be clear, even with the vacuum disconnected the flapper stays open


    I’m hoping to get the car to sit at cold idle a little more reliably, warm idle... sits and purs, cold idle like all old cars, not so much.


    The car has a Holley carb with a BS electric choke, and the manifolds have been changed for headers, if this makes a difference? 





  17. Welcome to the Forum. Great looking car for sure. Where did you get the cup holder insert for the ash tray?

    I think he said he got it from mac’s antique auto parts. They are In Upstate New York, Lockport?. It’s great to hold the passenger side coffee because second gear hits the drivers side one. You just take out the ash tray insert and it pops in. So much better then a cardboard coffee tray on the passenger seat

  18. Welcome from Welland, Ontario. Nice Q-Code. Is this an original Canadian sold car?

    Yes it’s an original Canadian car, sold to a dealership in Toronto, I’d have to look at the paperwork to see what dealership. It was built in December of 71. I was sold in June of 72 off the lot. For what’s its worth it’s a 1 of 1 car according to the Marti report afternoon breaking down all the options. Although it is a minimal option vehicle.


    it has had the lower quarters done, burn it was oil sprayed from new, so it all very solid. The frame is better then i would ever have imagined.

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