Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bufus

  1. The springs are from CJ Pony Parts. They are both the same. The difference on the back is 5/8". If I change the shackles, will I have to loosen all of the bolts holding the leaf springs or can I just take the shackles off?
  2. I've got a console that I'm gonna paint and assemble soon. I would love to hear suggestions on Installation too. My new carpet is already in the car.
  3. Well it has new springs front and rear. Now that I look at the back, I can see it from there too. Check out the picture. This picture also makes me ask what size tires/wheels are yall using on your mustangs???
  4. Thanks for the info. I don't know alot of detail about what was replaced on my car before I got it but I'm sure that some of the rear body parts were. If air shocks are out, how about using custom length shackles to slightly raise and even up the rear? Any other ideas?
  5. New rear leaf springs raised my rear end 1 12/16" on one side and 1 15/16" on the other. My rear measurements are now 3/8" different. Neither one looks high enough to me. (The front springs were replaced at the same time.) I'm thinking about air shocks to get the rear end a little higher and leveled out.
  6. Great job man!!!! Looks Awesome. I love that orange. Any mods to the car? Is it all factory?
  7. Is there any hope for repairing gauges that have been subjected to moisture and have internal rust? At least one terminal (on the temp gauge) freely spins also. Also, are there any aftermarket gauges that will mount in place of the originals.....with or without modification to the original mounting device? Otherwise, any advice on what to do, where to buy used, etc.?
  8. Where are the points that click? If you can, explain the principle by which the clock works. I'm pretty lost. First time I've ever looked inside a clock. Lol
  9. The first time I put power on my clock it made a click which sounded like a relay kicking on. Since that, it doesn't click anymore when power is applied. Clock doesn't seem to do anything. It looks great on the inside but doesn't run. What's the best way to start trying to get it running?
  10. Bdennis, from what I understand, the resistance is in the pink wire that runs to the coil. As far as my problem, turns out there is no connection to the I terminal on the regulator in my mustang because it has an ammeter instead of a charging lamp. Is it possible that a diode in series with the S terminal on the regulator would solve this run-on problem?
  11. Thanks for the info. I already tried a diode in line with the relay coil and across the relay coil. Neither of those worked. I will try it in line with the regulator and post my results.
  12. I'm confused about the MSD tach adapter. It is for converting MSD box outputs to a usable signal. My signal isn't changing. What good does the box do for me? Also, one of the main reasons I want 12 V to the coil is to increase the energy to my plugs. I had a miss on all cylinders probably because the tach wire only has about 4.5 V while the engine is running. The new coil fixed that problem. Can I put additional resistance in line on the tach wire to stop the problem and protect the tach at the same time? Still waiting on response from Pertronix support on this problem.
  13. My car is a 73 Mach 1 with a 351C. Just installed a Pertronix Ignitor 2 conversion in my Autolite distributor. Also put in Ignitor 2 coil (0.6 Ohm) with relay to supply 12 V to it. If I leave the tach wire connected to the coil, the engine won't shut off. How can I use my tach without causing this problem? Thanks!
  14. Do you happen to know the type, size, thread, and length of the hardware that holds the front spoiler on? I have a spoiler and no hardware!
  • Create New...