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Everything posted by ManniB

  1. If the springs are unloaded (springs removed from car), there is no tension at all in them. - Manfred
  2. Not Mustang related, but.. anyway: last Saturday I had installed the oil tank of my other car (911) after cleaning and painting. I made sure all oil lines where connected correctly before pouring in oil. After 2.5 Liters, I heard a noise from under the car. Quite a large puddle of oil on the floor. It would have helped to install the drain plug before filling ;-) - Manfred
  3. That's good news. I forgot to mention that there is no noise and no leak at all. I will keep an eye on it. Thanks, Manfred
  4. Hi, today when I re-adjusted my Koni shocks on the rear end I noticed that I could lateraly move my RH rear wheel slightly in and out. Although I didn't measure it, I think the play is less that or equal to .02 inch. There is no movement on the LH side. Is this play excessive? Thanks, Manfred
  5. Hi guy's, thanks for the answers. And no, I didn't buy any gauge yet. - Manfred
  6. Hi, anyone know the thread size of the oil pressure sending unit in a 351 Cleveland? I want to temporarily install a mechanical gauge. And, yes, I used the search feature, but it seems I'm missing the right keywords ;-) Thanks, Manfred
  7. Hi, sitting in the drivers seat of my '71 I always have the feeling that it would be grat if I could move the seat another 2 or 3 inches away from the steering wheel. What's the best way to achive this? Are there any seat track extenders that I can buy or is it possible to modify the existing tracks? Thanks, Manfred
  8. Hi, 1971 T5 Mach 1 with 351 Cleveland 4V (from Germany). Regards, Manfred
  9. These 'brackets' grab the trunk access door when it is open so it doesnt rattle. - Manfred
  10. Fixing the housing with a piece of plastic sounds good. Actually, it is the kind of idea I would have come up with. It is more work as if you tape the bulb holder, but tape is likely to come loose with age. A piece of plasic would set the bulb back only a small distance which seems acceptable. Just make sure you use the right glue for the type of plastic. Of course, if you want it to be perfect you could try to get a new/used housing. Don't know for how much that would be sold. - Manfred
  11. Great, now I know where those two pieces of cardboard left from my restoration have to go. Thanks for that! However, we are now two who don't know how they install. I'm curious. Your fellow European ;-)
  12. Rick, I can only underscore what Chuck and Don have already pointed out. It is next to impossible to install a set of repros with the original retainers without bending them. You ask how I know? Guess!!! I went to three sets of repros. I killed the first set myself, the second set was bent by a socalled "pro". I finally found a place in near Munich called "The Autoglaser". The owner is relly knowledable in restoring vintage cars of all makes. He immediately pointed out that the trim was much to soft to be installed with the retainers. He suggested to glue in the trim instead. Actually, before gluing them in, he nearly ground down the ridge that snaps behind the retainers completely so it could be pressed in with very little force. It worked perfectly and I'm happy now. But using the originals will save you a lot of trouble. - Manfred
  13. Thanks for the great post and write up in the thread you referenced above. I'm sure it saves some of us fellow mustangers a lot of headache. And hopefully it improves on the safety of at least some of our cars because this detail is very easily overlooked. Using a large screw driver as a pry bar, it was easy to pull the steering shaft out far enough so that the dowel and notch now engage properly. And ass the saying goes: "there is no dis-advantage without an advantage." Once I understood the construction of the steering column attachment I was able to pull it out fürther and gain 2 cm more legroom!!!
  14. Hi, as odd as it may seem I have ripped my steering coupler apart. During re-assembly of my Mach 1, I installed a brand new coupler (the rubber ring). Deeper looking into the cause of the problem I noticed that the fingers/dowels on the column side DO NOT engage with the notches on the steering gear side (power steering). When I turned the steering wheel without the engine running, it simply ripped the ring apart. I assume that the dowels/notches are supposed to engage to limit the load on the rubber ring. Right??? If the above is true, it means that my steering column is simply half an inch too short. It sits currently as low as it can because the trim shroud and upper column casting are butt against the dashboard. Either I installed the dashboard too far from the firewall (which I think is impossible). The other cause I can think off is that the steering column has collapsed half an inch during storrage (it was stored for 14 years and had to undergo several moves). If the column was collapsed due to careless handling, is it possible to pull it out again? Any thought and ideas are most welcome!!! - Manfred (clueless)
  15. Hi, I'm wondering if it is possible to successfully align the steering using common garage tools. I don't want to spare the money, but I'm really unsure whether today’s alignment services get mit done right, especially here in Germany. I have replaced all steering components during the restoration, but the service I took the car to complained they had problems with the eccentrics of the lower arms (which I don't understand since they are new). I have already read several articles and posts about the topic and understand the theories of aligning the steering. I understand how to measure/calculate angles at the wheel. So, the question is whether anyone of you has done DIY steering alignment successfully? While we are on the topic: What would be the best alignment specs for a '71 Mach 1? By best I mean reliable/comfortable street use. Thank you, Manfred
  16. Chuck, self centering of the steering is nearly zero. However, I have attributed this to old steering technology. Actually, I'm unsure to what kind of specs they have aligned the steering. I gave them specifications I found on the other Mustang board, but I didn't get any actual settings in return. However, they wrestled with the steering for three hours and claimed afterwards they had problems with the excentrics of the lower arms. So my suspicion is the settings may be off. This brings me to another subject which would be: Is it possible to measure/set steering alignment at home by using common tools? I will open another thread on this topic. - Manfred
  17. Chuck, the steering seems to be a little loose and I have the feeling, the car is wandering while driving. It is like I constantly have to control the direction. However, I'm not sure if this is the difference between modern and old steering technology. Another thing is I dont know how well the Euromaster boys (German chain) have adjusted the front end. All the involved front end components have been replaced during the restoration, so they should be tight. - Manfred
  18. That one looks quite similar, the big difference is that my arm is argent in color. It probably comes with a different base plate that has to glued to the windshield. How does one remove the old base plate glued to the windshield? - Manfred
  19. homelessmexican, below is the wiring of the map light. I'm not sure if they mixed up 53/54 at the connector. - Manfred
  20. There is probably a significant risk with every used mirror of being or becoming blind, I fear. I assume they become blind with age. - Manfred
  21. Hi, in the shop manual I've read about the recommended procedure to adjust the Saginaw power steering gear. It involves removing the pitman arm and emptying the fluid from the gear. Is there a way to avoid disconnecting the fluid line? I hate the idea to end up with a leaking line. On the other hand, I don't want to risk damaging the unit. - Manfred
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