Big Red Mach 1

I'm 2.78. I would say it's still good.

Great to know Don C! Thanks!

I tried the screw and it didn't work. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I'll try the soaking it for a few days in dawn and see if I get anywhere with that and then running the screw in and out. Thanks for the ideas guys.

That's a bada$$ bike Geoff. That bike needs the "Giant" sticker removed though and replaced with a Mach 1 sticker. That would be legit.

Just bought one from Don @OMS via eBay.

Better description. One detent out. Knob all the way left-before the "click" to turn on the dome ight. 11.1V Turning toward the right slowly drop to 9.4v about 3/4 of the way. Beyond that, goes dead. 0 Volts. And upon further inspection, dome light comes on with the "click" to the left. And I do have faint dash lights until I get beyond the 75% toward full bright. Definitely the switch.

I have no lights on the dash. #3 Fuse is good, but voltage through it is only 9.3V. A shot in the dark is maybe a bad headlight/dimmer switch? But could that cause a low voltage situation at that fuse typically? Remember those going bad on old cars quite often. It is a rheostat correct? Anything else in that circuit that would have the tendency to reduce voltage? And would 9.3v render the dash lights inop? My guess is yes. All headlights and markers come on outside the vehicle, but super dim. When I get around to doing this I will replace the dash lights with LED's for sure. Also, while

Would like to buy a correct and working Hi horn with the correct bracket. Would prefer not the repops/universals out there. I know I can have this one rebuilt. Was just hoping someone might have a spare they would be willing to part with. Mine is DOA even with straight 12V and good ground. Thanks!

Once re-registered the car would have to show an odometer reading of 116k or higher or else the State would flag it as unverifiable mileage. Is there a lot of value in obtaining the VIN of a 100k+mi. F code? Probably not. If it came out of a low mileage Q Code, or Boss that could be a different story. I could see someone trying to build that one and trying to pass it off for profit.

I would think it's more of a grey area on a 50 year old car than it is on a newer one. Tons of cars this age and older with engine and trans swaps at minimum. Entire body sections replaced, etc. I guess if the title and door sticker came with the dash, it would not be hard to build a car with those items in place and register it as that car.

Hey Kilgon, Which B&M shifter is that? Are you running a manual valve body?

Great Info! I have mine set level. I was told if you can sit your beer on it and it doesn't slide off, it's correct. I'm going with that. ;-)

My thought was just to see if anyone was running one to keep the carb as clean as possible. Help prevent stuff like secondary plates sticking, etc.

Best I could get. All the ones with Mach spelled out in any fashion were taken.

For sure. The fuel entering the combustion chamber under the valve is definitely the reason.