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Big Red Mach 1

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Everything posted by Big Red Mach 1

  1. As the neglected and red-headed step-kid of the Gen 1's to most collectors, I've always viewed our cars as "Nowhere to go but up".
  2. It's been 115-118* here all week. Not going away any time soon. Horrible time to drive a classic, even if it has A/C. Worse time to try to work in the garage. So the Mach goes in storage and the boat comes home. In Oct. They will swap and the boat will go up, and the Mach will be home again until the following June. In short I just need a bigger garage. LOL.
  3. Geoff, You are speaking of your dash lights, correct? I'm hoping to hear you have decent improvement there, but it may take going to LED on those bulbs as well before that happens. I still plan on doing this when I get the car out of storage in October.
  4. Good for you David! - Also, Last Of The Mohicans is a favorite movie of mine. Would love to explore the area they filmed it in! Beautiful country!
  5. Planning on it! Ford power on the water. 1995 351 Windsor with GT40 heads. Ford SVT actually took 300 blocks from the marine division that year for the Cobra R.
  6. Going to sound odd to all you east coast guys, but I just put my car up for the summer the other day. The boat has taken back over the garage. I'll get the car back out in October when we are done boating, and then the boat will go into storage. Supposed to be 114* here next week. Anyway, got a decent side shot of her when putting her away. I have always wanted the rear end to sit a tad higher, and I don't dare think I drop the front. What do you guys think?
  7. Anyone have part numbers on the 1" longer shackles and bushings? I'd like to do this also.
  8. This isn't necessarily a bad place to sell it, but if you want more looks, put it on the 351C Facebook pages. (Clevelands Forever 351c.net) and (351C/351M/400 & Clevor Parts Only)
  9. If I do send it off, it's going here, but it will suck to be without it for 4-6 weeks. https://harmonclassicbrakes.com/contact/ https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50001029z~Z5Z5Z5AADKP~P255.95~~~~S62C0Q8AHM68107116580g~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50001029z
  10. So the reason I'm asking is because my master cylinder is leaking terribly, and has been since I've owned the car. I was under the assumption that the fluid will get inside the booster and kill it. Inevitably most of these 48+ year old cars have had to have had the master cylinders leak in this manner at some point in their lives. Yet no one in this thread has had a known issue, and my 73 booster also still holds vacuum. I was going to have the booster rebuilt or replaced when swapping the master cylinder. But now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just spare the expense and clean it up really well and re-paint it and run it.
  11. Classic Cougar says on their website that they rebuild all to the better 73 specs. But it does not say what that actually means.
  12. Apparently these underwent an upgrade in mid-72 that was supposed to help with reliability. Were that many of the 71-72 Bendix boosters failing? What did they change in them to make them more reliable? Thanks!
  13. Thanks Geoff. No, definitely not cheap. This kit is a bit more expensive than most. But you do get the dual readout gauge, two modules, two harnesses, and two Bosch 02 sensors. It also came with 2 sets of bungs including a set in stainless. It's a good kit. The toolbox was only $12, so that was the only affordable piece. LOL
  14. 12 and 16 were where the carb was before I hooked these up . They dialed in nicely once I could see what I was doing. (first warm idle video). I didn't know that about the sensors. When I unhook the kit I'll pull them and put the plugs back in the bungs. My sensors are located after the long tubes and before my H pipe.
  15. As everyone knows by now, I'm new to carbs and have had a lot to learn over this past year and a half. With help form many of you, I got mine fairly dialed-in, but really wanted some form of visual confirmation of where I was. I bought the Dual Wideband setup from Glow Shift. Because my interior is 100% stock, right down to the 8 track player, I didn't want to hard-install the gauge, so I put it in a lightweight portable toolbox. After I feel I'm fully dialed in, I will unplug the harnesses from the 02 sensors and store everything in the box. I'm connected to the battery via alligator clips. I may hook it up a couple times a year. Maybe summer and winter. Initial first readings before I adjusted them with the gauge hooked up were Bank 1 (Drivers side) was a tad rich at 12, Bank 2 was lean at 16. Here's a few videos from my first test drive with the dual wideband. Let me know what you think of these readings. You will have to listen to my RPMs go up and down to tell accel/decel. At points I do call out speeds and when I'm going up or down some slight hills. Carb is QF 735CFM -31 Squirter -Primary 71- Secondary 80 -5.5 PV -Pink cam in #1 hole. (Very slightly different from what John (Jpaz) is running with a very similar setup and the same carb). Pre-Drive Warm Idle. The test drive. Post Test drive idle. My son had killed the camera a bit early and I wanted to see post drive idle as compared to pre-drive idle. Would love any feedback. Thanks!!
  16. Great to hear Geoff! I'll be using mine this coming Friday night for our monthly meet. We shift to evenings in the summer out here.
  17. I know this is an older thread I started, but thought I'd update. I mentioned a while back that the Hooker long tubes with ceramic coating helped a little but not a lot. Well, I just got everything behind the headers re-done and I added a H-Pipe. Previously the exhaust just ran straight back through a set of Flowmasters and out. No crossover at all. I know that exhaust scavenging can be important in a lot of ways, and lowering the temps under the hood certainly seems to be one. Seemed like the heat transfer under the hood took quite a while longer to really heat up. Exhaust note also sounds just as good if not better than it did previously also.
  18. I have a Blue Thunder. It does have the crossover. I blocked mine with inspiration from Geoff. With ram air, you may or may not get a thin spacer in there unfortunately. At least without modifying the stock plenum. I could not get my Ram Air back in until I went to aftermarket engine mounts and 73 frame mounts which lowered the engine roughly 5/8". Summit sells a 1/4" phenolic spacer. I just bought one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1398 Some spacer is better than no spacer. You may want to pick one up and see if you can fit it.
  19. You running a spacer under the carb? If so, how tall?
  20. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224450317616?hash=item3442480d30:g:BJ0AAOSw3rtgkamX
  21. Those are the exact ones I got. They were not available when Stanglover got his, although the ones he got are practically identical, just a different name. They seem to disappear and re-appear from Amazon.
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