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Big Red Mach 1

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Posts posted by Big Red Mach 1

  1. 20 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

    Sounds weird that your car is now in storage for the summer, That's hard for me to get my head around. I WISH we could have that choice here!

    It's been 115-118* here all week. Not going away any time soon. Horrible time to drive a classic, even if it has A/C. Worse time to try to work in the garage. So the Mach goes in storage and the boat comes home. In Oct. They will swap and the boat will go up, and the Mach will be home again until the following June. In short I just need a bigger garage. LOL.




  2. 1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

     It does look like my interior light could be a tad brighter, but hard to see in the daytime. All I need to do now is take it out after dark for a proper test and set beam angles.


    Geoff, You are speaking of your dash lights, correct? I'm hoping to hear you have decent improvement there, but it may take going to LED on those bulbs as well before that happens. I still plan on doing this when I get the car out of storage in October.  

  3. 10 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    As an important note. I am in the middle of replacing my Saginaw pump from TuffStuff. I am now learning that some of these pumps can generate 1,200 psi and others 1,450 psi. This could explain why I cant turn the wheels at low RPMs. I am purchasing a pump internal from Lee Steering that can generate the high pressure. That said i will keep the casing of my current pump that fits my application but replace the internal pump. I am hoping this is the solution. I will update once i have results.


  4. Going to sound odd to all you east coast guys, but I just put my car up for the summer the other day. The boat has taken back over the garage. I'll get the car back out in October when we are done boating, and then the boat will go into storage. Supposed to be 114* here next week. Anyway, got a decent side shot of her when putting her away. I have always wanted the rear end to sit a tad higher, and I don't dare think I drop the front. What do you guys think? 



    • Like 2
  5. 21 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    I am currently using the Eaton 1" longer shackles. Note that you will raise the car by 1/2 of the additional shackle length. The Eaton 1" longer shackles will raise the rear about 1/2". Also, keep in mind that any deflection occurring at the bushings will be multiplied due to the longer shackle. That said, I suggest replacing at least one bushing pair with polyurethane so to have the lower pair with rubber and the upper pair with PUR.

    Anyone have part numbers on the 1" longer shackles and bushings? I'd like to do this also. 

  6. 8 hours ago, timachone said:

    That's the reason why I bench tested my original booster with a vaccum device - you can read the procedure on page 10 and 11 on my resto thread ('Tim's 1973 Mach 1 rebuild thread'). As I then knew my booster was holding vacumm steadily at the minimum of 10 minutes I chose to use it as is and give it some cosmetic resto. That included an order of a kit from harmonicclassicbrakes.com and a paint strip wih new nice semi gloss black. With this kit I renewed the front seal, front vaccum line seal and check valve, the rear bellow and felts and was done. For 25 bucks. So I would first recommend to test you booster before sending your original unit elsewhere... 


    Great advice. Thanks!!

    • Fist Bump 1
  7. So the reason I'm asking is because my master cylinder is leaking terribly, and has been since I've owned the car. I was under the assumption that the fluid will get inside the booster and kill it. Inevitably most of these 48+ year old cars have had to have had the master cylinders leak in this manner at some point in their lives. Yet no one in this thread has had a known issue, and my 73 booster also still holds vacuum. I was going to have the booster rebuilt or replaced when swapping the master cylinder. But now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just spare the expense and clean it up really well and re-paint it and run it. 

  8. 1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

     Good question. Next question is; what are rebuilt boosters upgraded to or are they?

    I have a Cardone (Car Done as Don C says) and although it tests and hold vacuum as it should, it is not THAT much better than when I ran the front 4 piston disc brakes without a booster.


    Classic Cougar says on their website that they rebuild all to the better 73 specs. But it does not say what that actually means. 

  9. 18 minutes ago, Stanglover said:

    I checked out those on several sources including the Glow Shift website. They ain't cheap!! Not available on Amazon.ca right now either. I'm still on the fence as to whether I'll buy an AFR kit. Piggy bank needs to get a lot fatter!

    I really like the set up as you don't want it on full time. Nice job on the videos. 

    Thanks Geoff. No, definitely not cheap. This kit is a bit more expensive than most. But you do get the dual readout gauge, two modules, two harnesses, and two Bosch 02 sensors. It also came with 2 sets of bungs including a set in stainless. It's a good kit. The toolbox was only $12, so that was the only affordable piece. LOL

    • Like 1
  10. 26 minutes ago, c9zx said:

    Any dual plane intake will vary a bit from side to side and cylinder to cylinder. However, 12:1 and 16:1 is a realistic spread. Possibly an exhaust leak on th 16 side. I'd swap sensor positions to see if you get the same reading then. Where are the bungs placed in the exhaust? I know nothing about "Glow Shift", I use AEM. Chuck

    PS Don't leave the sensors installed without power to them, it will damage them.

    12 and 16 were where the carb was before I hooked these up . They dialed in nicely once I could see what I was doing. (first warm idle video).

    I didn't know that about the sensors. When I unhook the kit I'll pull them and put the plugs back in the bungs.

    My sensors are located after the long tubes and before my H pipe. 


  11. As everyone knows by now, I'm new to carbs and have had a lot to learn over this past year and a half. With help form many of you, I got mine fairly dialed-in, but really wanted some form of visual confirmation of where I was. I bought the Dual Wideband setup from Glow Shift. Because my interior is 100% stock, right down to the 8 track player, I didn't want to hard-install the gauge, so I put it in a lightweight portable toolbox. After I feel I'm fully dialed in, I will unplug the harnesses from the 02 sensors and store everything in the box. I'm connected to the battery via alligator clips. I may hook it up a couple times a year. Maybe summer and winter.

    Initial first readings before I adjusted them with the gauge hooked up were Bank 1 (Drivers side) was a tad rich at 12, Bank 2 was lean at 16. 




    Here's a few videos from my first test drive with the dual wideband. Let me know what you think of these readings. You will have to listen to my RPMs go up and down to tell accel/decel. At points I do call out speeds and when I'm going up or down some slight hills. 

    Carb is QF 735CFM -31 Squirter -Primary 71- Secondary 80 -5.5 PV -Pink cam in #1 hole. (Very slightly different from what John (Jpaz) is running with a very similar setup and the same carb). 

    Pre-Drive Warm Idle. 

    The test drive.

    Post Test drive idle. My son had killed the camera a bit early and I wanted to see post drive idle as compared to pre-drive idle. 

    Would love any feedback. Thanks!!

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, Stanglover said:

    Well, last night I finally got the car out to try out the new LED headlights. I had limited time and it was not yet totally dark, but enough for me get a good look at the difference. The light was white and bright, good spread and on high beam waaay better than the older Halogen bulbs. I still have not installed relays and to be honest, I'm not convinced they're needed, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

    All in all, a great and simple upgrade at reasonable cost.

    Great to hear Geoff! I'll be using mine this coming Friday night for our monthly meet. We shift to evenings in the summer out here. 

    • Like 1
  13. I know this is an older thread I started, but thought I'd update. I mentioned a while back that the Hooker long tubes with ceramic coating helped a little but not a lot. Well, I just got everything behind the headers re-done and I added a H-Pipe. Previously the exhaust just ran straight back through a set of Flowmasters and out. No crossover at all. I know that exhaust scavenging can be important in a lot of ways, and lowering the temps under the hood certainly seems to be one. Seemed like the heat transfer under the hood took quite a while longer to really heat up. Exhaust note also sounds just as good if not better than it did previously also. 

  14. I have a Blue Thunder. It does have the crossover. I blocked mine with inspiration from Geoff. With ram air, you may or may not get a thin spacer in there unfortunately. At least without modifying the stock plenum. I could not get my Ram Air back in until I went to aftermarket engine mounts and 73 frame mounts which lowered the engine roughly 5/8". Summit sells a 1/4" phenolic spacer. I just bought one.


    Some spacer is better than no spacer.  You may want to pick one up and see if you can fit it. 

  15. 19 minutes ago, tony-muscle said:

    I already had relays installed so no issues with current. However, after reading this thread I got motivated to try those LED headlights. They are definitely brighter and whiter. I have not tested them on the road yet, but in my garage I could see the difference. These consume 25 watts and are brighter than the Hella halogen rated at 80/100 watts. The LED lamp is on the driver's side in the picture. I still don't trust how long they will last so I will carry the Hellas as spare.

    I got these:




    Those are the exact ones I got. They were not available when Stanglover got his, although the ones he got are practically identical, just a different name. They seem to disappear and re-appear from Amazon. 

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