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Big Red Mach 1

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Everything posted by Big Red Mach 1

  1. I have not fully investigated yet to see if it's the hose fitting leaking down onto the connection at the back of the pump making it look like it's that pump seal or not. That crimped hose fitting sits right above it.
  2. No. Mine is leaking at the back of the pump. I'm pretty darn sure it's tight, and it's probably the rear seal. I bought a rebuild kit for it. Just have not looked too closely at it yet. Other priorities, but it's next on the list. Figured while I was at it I would enquire about the different hose lengths, as I've never heard anyone say definitively why the change was made. To my knowledge, all other parts are the same (pump,box, etc)so was just curious as to why a longer hose was needed before, and a shorter hose all of the sudden became okay to use with the same parts and no other changes.
  3. Thanks Geoff. I've got those wrenches. I'll try giving the fittings another shot. Would be a ton easier without that boat anchor of an A/C compressor sitting right above it. LOL
  4. So 71/72 has the long power steering hose that loops up and over the drivers side brace. The 73 has a shorter hose that does not. Why? What changed that allowed for the shorter hose? Is one better than the other? I've had to change the hoses once, and may need to again as the new one seems to have possibly developed a leak.
  5. That's a bada$$ bike Geoff. That bike needs the "Giant" sticker removed though and replaced with a Mach 1 sticker. That would be legit.
  6. Once re-registered the car would have to show an odometer reading of 116k or higher or else the State would flag it as unverifiable mileage. Is there a lot of value in obtaining the VIN of a 100k+mi. F code? Probably not. If it came out of a low mileage Q Code, or Boss that could be a different story. I could see someone trying to build that one and trying to pass it off for profit.
  7. I would think it's more of a grey area on a 50 year old car than it is on a newer one. Tons of cars this age and older with engine and trans swaps at minimum. Entire body sections replaced, etc. I guess if the title and door sticker came with the dash, it would not be hard to build a car with those items in place and register it as that car.
  8. Hey Kilgon, Which B&M shifter is that? Are you running a manual valve body?
  9. Great Info! I have mine set level. I was told if you can sit your beer on it and it doesn't slide off, it's correct. I'm going with that. ;-)
  10. My thought was just to see if anyone was running one to keep the carb as clean as possible. Help prevent stuff like secondary plates sticking, etc.
  11. Best I could get. All the ones with Mach spelled out in any fashion were taken.
  12. For sure. The fuel entering the combustion chamber under the valve is definitely the reason.
  13. I figured at least 90% of people running old school carb'd engines wouldn't have. But thought there may be a few who have tried it. More curiosity than anything.
  14. Anyone running one of these on their mustangs? I have one on my 2015 F150 and like it. The gunk that it catches even on a newer engine is pretty amazing. I know it's not considered as necessary on carb'd cars, but still wondered if anyone might be running one.
  15. More than likely found the issue. Pulled the carb and found the high idle screw making just enough contact with the red arm/cam it rides on when engaged to keep the transfer slots exposed. Obviously could not see that with the carb on the car but immediately found it when I flipped her over. Explains the extra fuel and the high RPM leading to the burning eyes. I'll bolt her back on tomorrow and give it a try. I also took the advice of the document 71Coop provided and set the P and S plates evenly by light gap, and not transfer slot exposure, and sure enough it was quite different than the gap you get when "boxing out" both. With even gaps my Primary Transfer slot is properly "Boxed" but the Secondary side is just barely not yet exposed. I had previously read most of the other points in that document before in other places, but that advice was interesting and makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
  16. Thanks for the doc. It's a good read. In this case, I know I was rich. I went up significantly in jet size, and adjusting the idle mixture screws the RPM's just kept climbing all the way to 1,150. She was drinking like a fish.
  17. You are probably right. I know I've seen what I mentioned, but it was probably someone that added power windows to the front on their own. It may or may not be true, but I've also heard that all coupes, grande's and verts got roll down 1/4 windows in some form. It was just the Machs that got left out. True?
  18. To my understanding, if your front windows were power, the back ones could roll down manual. If the front ones were manual, the back ones were fixed. Not sure what the logic was behind that.
  19. Mach 1's didn't come with roll down windows. So I have the glass, but I need everything else to make them work.
  20. I need the window regulators and assoc. parts to make the rear 1/4 windows work. Need them to work smoothly.
  21. A few interesting finds this weekend. #1. - The lower housing on the acc pump had no play in it to swing the lever to the center of the bolt head. You would have to bend it to give it a bit of a dogleg in order to sit where it should. #2. - My #40 Nozzles did not come with the hollow screw as it should have. So I decided to (for the fun of it), go back completely the other direction and work toward very similar spec's as John's car. Going up to a #40 squirter wasn't in the cards this weekend, and I never mind experimenting. #3. - I never paid attention to it before, but when I put the 30cc pump back on, guess what... The lever has a dogleg in it right from the factory. LOL. Never would have guessed that, and never paid attention to it because it came out of the box that way and everything lined up from the get-go. #4 - John was running 72P and 81S @ roughly 700 ft. ele. I decided to run 71P and 80S at 1,500ft. ele. He has a 6.0PV which I did not have so I ran a 5.5PV. I'm much lower on vacuum anyway so I went 5.5 over going 6.5. I say all of this again knowing that every car is different and that we will all get different results. Just way too many variables to expect the same results. Please don't assume I thought that I was going to match John's setup and get the exact same results. End result for me was that I never pulled her out of the garage. My cam just won't allow for this type of jetting without going right back to the burning eyes exhaust. That's even with my transfer slot 90% closed and my throttle blades being drilled. Even working the mixture screws I just could not get it to run well at all. Way too rich for my cam. Interesting experiment, and all good to know. Well worth the attempt because it taught me something. I guess it could have been a leaking PV, but it was brand new out of the package, so I highly doubt that. In the end I was super close where I was prior, and I'll pick up from that point, and I'm sure after one or two more tweaks, I'll be exactly where I need to be. I'll put a dogleg in the 50cc arm, and get that hollow screw and I should be close to good-to-go. Much appreciated to all involved in talking me though one of my interesting (to say the least) posts. ;-)
  22. David, It's awesome that you were able to find all of those items. The amount of time it took you do do so is certainly a bummer but not surprising. I may give BoosterDewey(Steve) a shot, but if for some reason that doesn't pan out, I'll let you know. I greatly appreciate your offer to put pricing together for me if needed. Thank you.
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