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Big Red Mach 1

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Everything posted by Big Red Mach 1

  1. I'm going to use Eastwood Aluma Blast on my bracket. I like the look. Bought the teal paint from NPD. Hopefully both here by the time I get back from my biz trip to San Francisco.
  2. I like the aluminum bracket look because my A/C compressor right above it is also unpainted. I may strip my bracket down too.
  3. Was the bracket typically not painted as shown in the photo? Mine is black. (Edit: Just realized that's not a stock bracket.)
  4. I think the previous owner may have painted this a different color at some point. Some cleaning has revealed a blueish color underneath. Is this the color they were originally? And if so, does anyone sell it in a rattle can? Thanks!
  5. I have not fully investigated yet to see if it's the hose fitting leaking down onto the connection at the back of the pump making it look like it's that pump seal or not. That crimped hose fitting sits right above it.
  6. No. Mine is leaking at the back of the pump. I'm pretty darn sure it's tight, and it's probably the rear seal. I bought a rebuild kit for it. Just have not looked too closely at it yet. Other priorities, but it's next on the list. Figured while I was at it I would enquire about the different hose lengths, as I've never heard anyone say definitively why the change was made. To my knowledge, all other parts are the same (pump,box, etc)so was just curious as to why a longer hose was needed before, and a shorter hose all of the sudden became okay to use with the same parts and no other changes.
  7. Thanks Geoff. I've got those wrenches. I'll try giving the fittings another shot. Would be a ton easier without that boat anchor of an A/C compressor sitting right above it. LOL
  8. So 71/72 has the long power steering hose that loops up and over the drivers side brace. The 73 has a shorter hose that does not. Why? What changed that allowed for the shorter hose? Is one better than the other? I've had to change the hoses once, and may need to again as the new one seems to have possibly developed a leak.
  9. That's a bada$$ bike Geoff. That bike needs the "Giant" sticker removed though and replaced with a Mach 1 sticker. That would be legit.
  10. Once re-registered the car would have to show an odometer reading of 116k or higher or else the State would flag it as unverifiable mileage. Is there a lot of value in obtaining the VIN of a 100k+mi. F code? Probably not. If it came out of a low mileage Q Code, or Boss that could be a different story. I could see someone trying to build that one and trying to pass it off for profit.
  11. I would think it's more of a grey area on a 50 year old car than it is on a newer one. Tons of cars this age and older with engine and trans swaps at minimum. Entire body sections replaced, etc. I guess if the title and door sticker came with the dash, it would not be hard to build a car with those items in place and register it as that car.
  12. Hey Kilgon, Which B&M shifter is that? Are you running a manual valve body?
  13. Great Info! I have mine set level. I was told if you can sit your beer on it and it doesn't slide off, it's correct. I'm going with that. ;-)
  14. My thought was just to see if anyone was running one to keep the carb as clean as possible. Help prevent stuff like secondary plates sticking, etc.
  15. Best I could get. All the ones with Mach spelled out in any fashion were taken.
  16. For sure. The fuel entering the combustion chamber under the valve is definitely the reason.
  17. I figured at least 90% of people running old school carb'd engines wouldn't have. But thought there may be a few who have tried it. More curiosity than anything.
  18. Anyone running one of these on their mustangs? I have one on my 2015 F150 and like it. The gunk that it catches even on a newer engine is pretty amazing. I know it's not considered as necessary on carb'd cars, but still wondered if anyone might be running one.
  19. More than likely found the issue. Pulled the carb and found the high idle screw making just enough contact with the red arm/cam it rides on when engaged to keep the transfer slots exposed. Obviously could not see that with the carb on the car but immediately found it when I flipped her over. Explains the extra fuel and the high RPM leading to the burning eyes. I'll bolt her back on tomorrow and give it a try. I also took the advice of the document 71Coop provided and set the P and S plates evenly by light gap, and not transfer slot exposure, and sure enough it was quite different than the gap you get when "boxing out" both. With even gaps my Primary Transfer slot is properly "Boxed" but the Secondary side is just barely not yet exposed. I had previously read most of the other points in that document before in other places, but that advice was interesting and makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
  20. Thanks for the doc. It's a good read. In this case, I know I was rich. I went up significantly in jet size, and adjusting the idle mixture screws the RPM's just kept climbing all the way to 1,150. She was drinking like a fish.
  21. You are probably right. I know I've seen what I mentioned, but it was probably someone that added power windows to the front on their own. It may or may not be true, but I've also heard that all coupes, grande's and verts got roll down 1/4 windows in some form. It was just the Machs that got left out. True?
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