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Big Red Mach 1

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Everything posted by Big Red Mach 1

  1. Thanks! I'll give them a call on Monday. If their lead time is only 3-4 weeks as their website states, I may go that route. I have some business traveling to do over the next month so it may work out nicely to have them working on it while I'm away.
  2. Welcome! As a new guy to the forum a year ago, I can assure you that you are in the right place! Tons of kind, funny and helpful folks on here that will get you what you need. Be sure to post up a photo of what she looks like now, and be sure to upload some progress pics as you and your son get underway!
  3. Cardone will allow you to send yours back. They will rebuild and return to you, but that's the only option. No idea how long that takes. That's why I'd rather do it myself.
  4. My master cylinder has been leaking since I bought the car. It's at the point now where I have to replace it. It's been leaking down the front of (and into I'm sure) the booster. I know they make replacement 9" boosters, but I'd prefer to rebuild my 11" if there is a kit to do so. Does such a thing exist? Thanks!
  5. NACA hood, Hood latches, 4 Speed, Front Disc brakes, tach with 3 gauges in center, clock, Clean interior, IMO the best steering wheel design. No real apparent rust. 351W much easier to find and cheaper parts. I've seen people ask for more for a worse car than this. I'd offer $12k and see if he bites.
  6. If it's a Mexican Mustang it's a Windsor, not a Cleveland. All their 351 cars were Windsors.
  7. Are you launching hard enough that you needed the jet extensions, or do you just like to add those in the secondary fuel bowl for good measure?
  8. Thanks John. I'll take note of all of that. Again, I'm going to make the minor tweaks Don suggested based on where I currently am. If I'm not happy with those results, I may head toward where you are as you seem happy with it and our cars are very similar.
  9. Very cool. I also have a C6 with a B&M Shift Kit, Deep pan and the R Code Servo. 2500-2800 stall converter and 3.50's out back. So we're slightly different in cam, and you are .010 larger bore than me. Other than that, really close. In my case I went lower with my jets in the front, and kept the stock jetting in the back. Thought being to run the leanest jets you can in the front so that at cruise you are most fuel efficient. Use the power valve and squirter combo in order to make power when you want it/need it. Having said that, it's not like I take the car on long trips. So does that really matter? Maybe not. I'm still going to take Don's suggestions about re-positioning the cam and having the secondaries open slower. Takes 10 minutes and I don't need more parts. But I would definitely love to have you conform your jetting for me in case I want to go that route. Thanks! On the cam, you are correct, not much going on above 5k. Definitely the wrong cam for the car. It will definitely get swapped in the future. I see a rebuild coming in the next 18-24 months.
  10. That's interesting. So the squirter these came with was a 31. The PV installed was the 6.5 you still have. Stock main jets were 68's. Do you know which ones you are running now? Are you fairly stock or highly modified? I'm .030 over. Flat Top Pistons, Blue Thunder intake. D0AE Closed chamber heads. Cam is a Comp Cams 270H. Every engine is going to be different. That's for sure.
  11. Great stuff as always Don. I'll double check that setting, but I'm 99% certain that the secondary blades are fully closed or darn near. Cracked a hair if at all. I'm running the stock spring, but do have a spring kit. The QF735 does have the nice little easy access screw that allows me to open them faster or slower. I'll adjust toward slower and see if that helps. Of the two cams that come with the 50cc kit I used the yellow, as that one was said to be the most aggressive. There was only 1 hole in it (Brown cam has two). But I know I put it in hole #1 on the linkage. I'll rotate it around to hole #2. Thanks!!!
  12. It's a few minutes longer than it needs to be. I didn't want to take an eternity to crop the video. You will see/hear me hit it a few times from 35/40ish MPH. And once from the light. I didn't load up the torque converter or try to do a burnout at the light. Just good solid acceleration. Anyway, I'm sure you will hear the drop when I mash it. Feel free to give any thoughts or input. Carb came with a 31. I upped to a 35 and it helped a lot. This 37 didn't help much. Considering going 40. Power Valve is a 8.5. I believe I'm jetted properly. Thanks!
  13. I did know what you meant for sure. I actually was able to get a feeler gauge in there believe it or not. LOL I'll have a driving video of her up shortly.
  14. 31 to 35 helped a lot but by no means cured it. 35 w/ 30cc to 37 w/ 50cc helped just a tiny bit. A lot less than I was hoping it would honestly. I'm not sure if the 35 to 37 just wasn't enough, or what. I thought I'd throw the 40 on with the hollow screw to see. $25 is worth the price of admission in my mind to know. I know stall speed on the torque converter can play into this as well, but I didn't test launching at different RPMs, and now it's raining and is supposed to for the next few days. I was hammering it from 35ish mph. It still falls flat very briefly and then goes. Maybe I can post a video from my dash cam. Maybe I'll pull the SD card and see.
  15. I'll be pulling it again to go from the .37 Nozzle to the .40 with the hollow screw as soon as it comes. I didn't think I'd need to go that high, but the .37 didn't fully cure my hesitation, so I guess .40 it is. Anyway, when I put it back together, I'll see if there is enough wiggle room to get it to line up better.
  16. Good eyeballs Don. I'll try it the next time I take the carb off. I didn't feel much wiggle room, but it probably would not take tons to make a difference at the contact point.
  17. Anyone else running a 50cc pump have this issue? I'm not super find of where the pump arm sits on the bolt head. It's just barely making contact. Does it work? Yes. Could I bend the linkage? Probably. Just curious if others have run into this and if so, if they just chose to run it, or if the decided to bend the linkage to make the bolt line up better with the pump arm. I've got one photo representing idle, 1 at WOT and one from above and below.
  18. Not entirely surprising if you real all of the reviews on them. Seems like it's certainly not the only one. I'd bet 85% of them are good, but obviously with anything mass produced, especially these days, it's gonna happen. I may not change it for a while...at least it's cooling! : )
  19. I looked through my order history and found out mine is a 2710 not the 1710. So possibly defective. The reviews on these clutches are very hit and miss.
  20. You are definitely correct. There is a 2710 that is thermal, and also has the longer shaft like the 1710. According to Rock Auto it will work on a Mustang from 67-79. Clearly, I bought the 1710. Definitely going to order a 2710 now. Again, thanks for the head's up.
  21. I think I got the clutch and Dorman bolts for mine from Rock Auto. No spacer with my 3 row radiator. My clutch NEVER disengages even in the winter which is kind of frustrating. By the time it's done with it's initial spinning which they all do, I'm well enough into the heat to keep it locked up all the time. That's in the garage at idle. I'm not sure what it's doing while driving. Hopefully there is some amount of slippage occurring saving me a couple mpg and adding a couple more hp. But who really knows.
  22. Yes the car does have a cam. Not one that people seem to care for very much. it's a Comp Cams 270H-10 https://www.compcams.com/magnum-224-224-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-ford-351c-351m-400m.html Very interesting. I have to admit that I've never attempted to adjust my vacuum advance.
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