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Big Red Mach 1

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Everything posted by Big Red Mach 1

  1. Not hard, but I don't move fast. For me, I'd take a weekend to do it at my typical slow pace.
  2. I really can't yet wrap my head around what I will do if I in fact have a leak. Part of me would just say take a long weekend, replace the head gaskets and do the water pump at the same time. The other part of me would want to take the opportunity to go all the way, and do something fun like stroke it. But it's just time and money that's the pisser. Money wise, if I went that route I'd probably sell my boat and use the funds from that. If I do that, I'd have a decent budget of around $13k to play with. I just hope to not have to go that route.
  3. I set it at 16 with no vac. I've never noticed it move before like that. I've also never seen one retard like this when on VAC. Same as you mentioned, if anything, it should actually advance. It is a single vac advance. After a 7 week wait, my new Duraspark box and dizzy are here now, so hopefully I'll get a chance to pull this old Mallory stuff out this weekend. Based on everything I sent them, Performance Distributors has the new dizzy calibrated for 22* @ 3000rpm. We'll see how that works.
  4. I feel like I'm in the same spot. I have the water pump. Have not put it on. I also have the test kit coming to see if I have any combustion gasses in the cooling system. If the test comes back negative, I'll do the water pump and timing cover next.
  5. Yeah, I doubt I start it at that point. But I do like the idea of filling it to that point in that manner.
  6. So the upper and lower hoses are new (New lower hoses does not have a spring), T-Stat new (went from 180 to 192) new radiator and new cap. I thought about the cap and actually swapped to a different one, even though I have not driven the car again since. But I did wonder about a bad cap. I am hoping it did just as you suggested, puked down once or twice to the proper level. I very well may have had it filled a bit too high.
  7. I thought about vapor lock. It's certainly a possibility. I do like your idea of slowly filling the block up to the t-stat hole, and then installing the T-Stat/Housing/Upper hose and filling the rest of the way. I'll probably do that the next time I have to drain it down. That's for that great idea Geoff.
  8. Took a mirror to the back of the head, driver's side back by the brake booster. I noticed a visible gap between the head and the block that I can only assume is due to the taper of the gasket on that end. So I believe it's on correct. That's what I've always known about the t-stats also. That the higher temp T-Stats actually raise the boiling point and are actually beneficial. That's why I asked instead of just taking the 5 minutes to lower the fluid level and pulling it out. I have heard that drilling a tiny pilot hole in the t-stat can help it bleed out any air better. I did go from a 180* to a 192*. I should note that it never puked on the 180* but it did with this 192*. BUT I definitely could have overfilled it. I only had the fluid bout 1" down from the top, and maybe that wasn't quite enough for expansion. I'll let her idle up to temp and take some readings in different spots with the laser thermometer. I"ll try to grab temps from the T-Stat housing, water pump at the temp sender, at the exhaust ports of the heads at all 8 cylinders, and around the radiator in different spots. Anywhere else you guys can think of that would be good? I know my lower hose does NOT have a spring in it. It is new though. I'd like to hook up a new gauge to the temp sender, just to see how much it differs from the stock gauge. I'm assuming that just about an aftermarket gauge will work as I don't intend to mount it.
  9. So first time really driving the car for the first time in a long time. Went up the road 5ish miles to a neighborhood cars and Coffee thing. Even though the gauge never went beyond where it normally goes, it puked a bit of coolant. Did it when I got home too. There was some sludge in the new radiator. When I changed the radiator, and T-Stat I used distilled and new coolant, but I did not flush the block or replace the water pump. Hoping the sludge is just old gunk from the water pump/block, etc. just being broken free. But still it did puke for the first time ever. I've had people with Clevelands in hotter climates like Florida, Texas and Arizona, to not ever bother using a T-Stat. That the car will run 15-20 degrees cooler without one, and it will flow a lot better too. I would never do that on a newer computer controlled car, but I guess I can see that logic on an old carbureted car. Anyone else in the hot climates doing that?
  10. Didn't really look like oil to me, but definitely makes me nervous.
  11. Got it started and timed right. Definitely gas in the oil. Drove it up to my local cars and coffee even this morning, maybe 5 miles. Even though my gauge didn't show overheating, I puked a tiny bit of coolant, and it puked a little again when I got home. There was some sludge in the brand new radiator, that I'm sure hoping isn't oil. I have another cooling thread on this page. I did not flush the system completely when I put in the new radiator. Just added distilled water and coolant. I'm hoping the sludge is from the old coolant parts like the block and water pump. Seems like my threads I post are merging.
  12. No. We checked that a handful of posts ago. Plus, I don't think I'd have the actual symptoms of a thru carb backfire and hard to crank.
  13. Still waiting on the new dizzy. They finally shipped it. So will probably have it 7 weeks from time of order. Have been setting timing this whole time with the vacuum advance capped off. 16 is what the car has liked. Hooked up the vacuum advance, and everything else. Took it up to the corner to get gas. It was a bit slow to restart at the gas station. Got it home, shut it off and tried it again. Again a bit slow. Seemed like maybe I was a bit rich, but decided to put a timing light on it. timing was only at 10 deg. Doesn't make sense. Disconnected the vac advance again, loosened up the dizzy hold-down bolt and figured I'd turn it a hair until it started better, and then would reset at 16 from there. Just plain won't start now, no matter where I turn the dizzy. I gave it a bit of gas and it backfired through the carb. Ended up getting the starter super hot and draining the battery down. On a charger now. Will try again in the a.m. But what could cause my timing to retard from 16 to 10? . The dizzy seemed bolted down firmly. I could not turn it by hand. Bolt was tight.
  14. Update: I have to say that I probably would not use these guys again. It's been 5 weeks and no dizzy. I emailed to check on it a couple of weeks ago and was told that it would ship in the 4th week. It now hasn't shipped in the 5th week, and they don't even return emails it seems. I'm not sure when I'll get it honestly. I'm fine with the wait, but it's the lack of communication that bothers me most. That and the odd thing where they didn't sell the boxes and harness anymore, but still had them on their site, and let me order them before they told me they were no longer available. Clearly they have more work than they can handle. Quality can often go down in times like that. I hope that's not the case here.
  15. I'm a clay bar guy as well. These photos were taken after clay bar and waxing the car. Last painted 1994 or 1995.
  16. Thanks Don C. I noticed that, but I can't distinguish between OEM and non-OEM Duraspark systems.
  17. Would this work? I'm thinking maybe not. But was this hoping it would and keep the wiring as clean and neat as possible with no splicing. But it looks like there may be some extra wires here as compared to the schematic mjlan posted above. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500918
  18. Nice!! I'd even like an option where the author that stared the thread can do a special "summary post" to do just that, summarize what they found and learned that got the issue resolved, and then it actually locks the thread. This way someone looking into the same issue doesn't have to dig through 10 pages of posts to see what finally got it all resolved. That's my only issue with repair forums. Very often the original author never comes back to let everyone know the issue is fixed and any important details they found along the way. The threads just sort of die. It can be like reading a book with the final page torn out.
  19. I replaced my PS hoses from the top. Seemed to be the best way. Did I do it the non-conventional way?
  20. Thanks for the info on the connector. I have never seen one of those before. I have the red box. OMG!!! That .60 is the grand canyon of spark plug gaps!!!!
  21. Every coil I've ever used has had screw in terminals. I've never seen a connector type like this. What's the proper connector to these posts?
  22. I went with Beverly Hills Auto Covers. Their indoor cover is very inexpensive, but good quality and soft inside. I didn't think their price for an outdoor cover was bad either. Overall very happy. https://www.beverlyhillsautocovers.com/car-covers-new/bh-premium-in-door-2-layer-car-cover.html?find=1973-ford-mustang-mach-i-197148 Thank you for your order from Beverly Hills Auto Covers. Once your package ships we will send an email with a link to track your order. If you have questions about your order, you can email us at support@beverlyhillsautocovers.com or call us at 310-438-5876. Payment Method PayPal Express Checkout Shipping Method Free Ground Shipping, 3-5 Days - Free Ground Shipping Items Qty Price Subtotal $154.90 Shipping & Handling $0.00 Discount (9d5bc465cc) -$15.50 Grand Total $139.40 BH Premium In-Door 2 Layer Car Cover SKU: CC613 Year 1973 Make Ford Model Mustang Body Mach I 1 $34.95 BH Signature Water-Proof 5 Layer Car Cover SKU: CC940 Year 1973 Make Ford Model Mustang Body Mach I 1 $119.95 Thank you, Beverly Hills Auto Covers!
  23. We'll see how this setup does as far as easier starting, smoother idle an less raw fuel smell at idle goes. If I'm not satisfied, I'll jump up to the Taylor or MSD setup. This was pretty inexpensive, so it won't kill me to abandon it if I have to.
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