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JT351W last won the day on May 24

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    1972 Mustang Grande Coupe, 351W,


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  1. Vintageman - I finally got the stand finished and the engine started. I was grinning ear to ear. My daugher come over to visit and was with me when I started it for the first time. She laughed at my facial expression. Starting was pretty easy with the Holley Sniper setup. Just took my time with all the wiring and efi pump setup. Now back to the car itself. For anyone - any comments regarding the Tremec TKX? Also, 2.5 or 3 exhaust? 3 is what is on it now. Pretty loud. It set my car alarm off 3 times. 351W EFI I short I.mp4
  2. Vintageman, thanks for your feedback and ideas. I went the mechanical gauges route too for the stand. Those parts have already arrived (Tach, water temp, and oil pressure). Already got the 4 and 16 gauge wiring. I still need to get a starter and radiator so I am researching that. I already ordered the bellhousing (for TKX trans) and block plate. Great video. Bet it was super loud! :-)
  3. Fabrice -- Thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated. For me, I wanted to make sure any issues that may come up after running the engine I could could address outside the engine bay. Pulling the engine in and out is a challenge for me due to my disability. Plus, I already have the steel and ability to weld a simple setup together. So for me, it is not that much more work. It may save me more time later in terms of putting the engine in. Don C - thanks for that. I was looking at that earlier. Interesting ideas. I have seen some others on the web based on an engine stand. I think I will "Frankenstein" one together out of steel. A wood version is unnerving. :-)
  4. My next plan is to finish the brakes (bench bleed, etc) and run the fuel lines (supply and return) from the tank to the front. From some research I did, I think I will set up a test run stand using the engine stand to run this engine before I install it into the car. I think it would be less of a headache to find out what I did wrong with the engine out of the car then in it. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to set up a test stand to run the engine?
  5. After some research and budget crunching, I decided to go with 17" wheels. 8" wide up front to not interfere with the upper ball joint and 9.5" in the rear. Front wheels are 245/45R17 and rear are 285/40R17. NOTE: The green paint is just a light coat from a can to see what it would look like. :-)
  6. Here is where I am at so far. Engine mostly done. New heads (AFR 180cc), pistons (flat top), connecting rods (free type), bearings, TFS Stage 1 roller camshaft, steel 1.6 rockers with roller tips, retro roller lifters, new oil pump, new water pump, all now gaskets, and port matched the intake to the heads (to max air flow limited by the heads, not the intake - hopefully). The rotating assembly was balanced by a local machine shop. I cleaned up the block and honed the cylinders. All the measurements/gaps were within spec per the Ford manual. The deskyop dyno using all the parts I installed showed about 10.1:1 compression with theoretical 437HP and over 500lbs of torque. Hmm. Not sure about that. But my butt dyno will be the judge of that. :-)
  7. I love the way you part together from other cars. I was thinking of doing the same to a certain degree. I can weld so that helps. Electrical stuff comes easy to me (thanks to college and my own geekdom). I do enjoy the challenge of creating a part I need. I just started building the seat mounts. So far so good. As for what you wrote above regarding manual transmission, I just got a Jegs brand (555-602355) billet steel SFI 28oz flywheel. The V6 bellhousing you found, would that work in 1972 351W with this flywheel? I am thinking it would. What car did you pull that bellhousing from? As for hydraulics for clutch, I am back and forth on that. Cable or hydraulic? I just got the booster and MC. Not sure how a hydraulkic system would work since the booster is in the way. Maybe a remote set up? Or try the cable version to start to see how it feels (that is what I may do). But I do love the idea of going back to manual. I miss it. Finding a used T5 is a challenge now adays. I will most likely need to buy new. A T5Z model. :-) I don't think I would need a TKO. Or maybe I do. :-) :-) :-) I do like your end quote - 3 pedals is the way to go!!
  8. Jeff, Power brakes would make my wife happy. The challenge then would be how to set up the clutch since I was planning on a hydraulic setup. I did a search through the forums but I must be using the wrong terms as not much came up. A lot of auto to manual conversions. Which is what I will be doing too (FMX to T5). Got any advice? JT
  9. Question regarding manual brakes. When I bought this stang it had power brakes. I am considering manual brakes since I will not know what vacuum I will have when the engine is completed. What are you thoughts? Go manual? Keep it power? Why for either option? The car will not be a race car or drag car. It will be a weekend to daily driver going to local classic car shows and maybe to work at times. Thanks for your feedback and ideas.
  10. Droptop73 - thanks for the feedback. 18" up front it is. Again, thanks a lot for your feedback and input. Much appreciated.
  11. Pic of front and rear brakes installed. Front are also from Wilwood with the 12.19" rotor and 4 piston calipers. The string on the rear brakes is what I am using to measure wheel width possibilities. I am looking to put in 18" x 10" wheel with 295 series tires. Something aggressive looking. The front may be 17" or 18" wheels but not wider then 9"'. It will be staggered with something like a 10" contact patch up front and a 11"+ contact patch on the rear end. Not really sure yet if I will go that way but I saw what Jason on Autoedits did with the wheels/tires on his 73 stang and it looks really amazing.
  12. Parking brake cables put in. Not as difficult as I thought it would be.
  13. Time for the rear brakes. These are the Wilwood 12.19" 4 piston disk brakes. I put those on alsong with new axle bearings/seal, etc. I also made the hard brake lines from both sides and connected them to the center brake line which will go to the master cylinder.
  14. Time for some sound insulation. :-)
  15. I made some measurements and applied them to some 14 gauge sheet metal. Roughly cut the shapes. Welding them together. Drilled holes where necessary. Welding on nuts. Painted with rust encapsulator. And then installed.
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