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mezell29

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Everything posted by mezell29

  1. To answer your question - mine is pretty stock. Here's a good pic:
  2. I'm running an AirGap intake with a Holley 670 Street Avenger carb. Honestly the performer mentioned above (351-2v) is perfect for the street. I had one in the garage but the AirGap came on the car so I just went with it. A little tall in a stock, non NACA hood car. Great combos with room to grow performance-wise.
  3. Plugged line or incorrect float as others mentioned. On Holley many can be adjusted externally. Open the float bowl view screws and see if its filling with fuel. It should be right at the bottom of the inspection hole. That will tell you a whole lot. This Holley video may help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKEonVeOXco This will validate if fuel is getting into the carb.
  4. That's what I am thinking. Right now I am working on plug and play programmable color dash lights to retro-fit any classic. My beta is working currently. This way if you want factory colored lights you can have them, if you want red, white, blue or any color really you can have it. I really want to create some nice, programmable led tail lights and the programming is similar to other projects I have done. Im thinking something that looks like afterburners on a jet!
  5. You are correct. If you look at my pic it is there. It came with the kit I bought. I am not sure its needed however. I saw some installs where it looks like they went around the PS pump and didn't have any top brackets at all. Its 4 bolts on the bottom so... I put it on because I had it.
  6. As luck would have it, I keep every receipt. I used a Duralast 17550 which is what Autozone showed for the car. Fit perfect. I have the cardboard from around the belt in my hand! That said, that's for use with the idler that attaches to the bracket as my car was factory air. If you are looking for the longer one to use without the idler, I am not sure. I agree with you Mister 4x4. As I mentioned my experience was lackluster for sure, however keep in mind that there is a location in TX and FL. FL is original parts, TX is the repro systems, so they have to order from the other one. While I want happy with the service, the product worked well, I was just on my own to figure it out beyond the provided instructions.
  7. Thanks Chuck, The issue was Vapor lock to the point the car would die after a few miles in 80 degree weather. This car has AC. In the Florida heat my under hood temps were high, but operating temps are normal. To answer the next questions this generates - I replaced the Radiator, thermostat, flushed the system. Engine cooling isn't an issue. I have an all new fuel system and placed a phenolic spacer as well as a Holley heat shield and line shields and still had the issue. I tried 2 different mechanical fuel pumps. I tried both metal and rubber fuel lines from the pump to the carb. Whenever you touched the metal line between the pump and the carb, it was HOT! The mechanical pump was always hot to touch and was warming the gas. The AC components not only generate more heat, but also restrict under-hood air flow. My car has the stock hood, not the NACA which I think has more clearance plus you can open the vents up if needed (This is a planned change when I paint). The combination of Ethanol fuels, high road heat, high fuel pump temps, crappy under hood airflow all seemed to contribute, no one item alone seemed to solve it (Ask me how I know). The fuel bowls didn't get overly hot, it was the fuel in the lines vaporizing. Vapor lock is caused by a low boiling point and low pressure lowers the boiling point, so pulling fuel vs pushing makes it worse. What ultimately solved the issue was a combination of things that keep my fuel cool and I haven't had any issues, even in the last several days of 100+ temps. I removed the mechanical pump to stop the low pressure and parasitic heat. I replaced it with an electric pump right at the fuel tank to push the fuel (and pressurize it). In our cars there are 2 metal fuel lines to the pump. The first ends right inside the firewall and is connected with a short piece of rubber tube to the second metal line that exits the engine bay and runs near the drivers front wheel and in to the mechanical. I cut that second circuit out. I connected to the end of the first metal line near the firewall and ran to the carb from the rear of the engine where there is less restricted airflow. LOL, you asked!
  8. I'm sure that's optimistic but I'm stock at the moment and not trying to be crazy. I tried the Carter which was supposed to be quiet and the whine was loud even with rubber mounts so I returned it after realizing the Holly was quieter. I think because I have a vert and the noise comes in through the trunk/top storage area. Still searching for a higher quality *QUIET* pump. I just put a new tank in. If I knew 2 months ago what I know now, I would have done an in tank pump. Now I'm too lazy to pull the tank, drain it, wash it so I dont blow something up while cutting, and spend $200+ . I thought about buying a new tank but this one is 2 months old 😞
  9. I ended up ordering a professional advance Timing Light and the MSD sprint/bushing kit. I went with the Blue spacer and a Light Silver and Blue spring with is just a little higher than 2 silvers. Interestingly I had to create a tool to be able to change the spacer without removing the dizzy - tough to get that nut on otherwise. Set about 12 degrees initial. I haven't taken her out but I definitely saw improvement in the garage (Smoother/faster rev). Will get her out tomorrow morning. Readjusted the Holley as well. I went from 42 plugs to 45, that seemed to help too. Ordered new 10.5mm wires to replaced the 8mm wires. Cam is still in the box. It's been over 100 degrees here and honestly I didn't feel like tearing the motor apart in that. Honestly there wasn't much difference between the Single and Dual pattern Comp Cam I considered (268H vs XE256H). A little shorter intake. vs This motor is all stock and I figured the cost was cheap to get a few ponies ($135). This shouldn't cause any broken valves. Over .5 lift and you can start running into issues. I also did a full compression test. Good compression - 150 to 160 on all cylinders. Well within spec. I know that they put new lower bearings in this motor a few thousand miles ago as I found a receipt. My nemesis at the moment is the 2.75 rear end, but the good news is I discovered it is a 9" rear. This car needs a top soon (plus seals) and paint.
  10. This thread is interesting. I'm making different all kinds of parts including professional quality lighting and I had considered making custom LED Tail lights. I can do my own creation, fabrication and programming. I was thinking about making up something like this to f it my 73 Vert markers. I can program them to change to blinkers, etc. Too modern?
  11. After a lot of research I pulled the trigger on a Comp Cams 268H to wake up my sleepy pony. Turns out I had a 260H on the shelf but after talking to Comp Cams, Summit, My buddy at a BIG local speed shop and the internet, this seems like the best choice for general driving duties. The guy from Comp had a couple 351C Cars and this was his recommendation for my use/setup! Just thought someone else might find this useful!
  12. I bought my 73 about 2.5 months ago. When I was shopping there was a 73 coupe with Mach 1 stripes and NACA hood that he has priced at $9000. I told him I was interested but wasnt quite there on the cash. He told me it was priced there because it was a rare Mach1. I laughed and bought another car - way better deal as its a convertible and unmolested and I paid less than his $9k. His car is still for sale. He's also a dealer.
  13. Awesome. I have an eddy performer f351 2v sitting in the garage. Maybe I'll swap this weekend and see how it goes if I can get gaskets. I looked at the cam I have on the shelf, looks like a Comp Cams 260/260. Thought about stuffing that in as well since its just sitting there. Trying to source a 9 inch rear that I can get some better gears in. 3.10 maybe
  14. Getting ready to replace the top on my 73. My first convertible. I'm thinking about going with canvas vs vinyl. I like EZ-on but having trouble finding their tops. Open to any recommendations for brands and materials. Vinyl vs Canvas? I've scoured the web and lots of references, however I'm curious to hear from my Mustang brethren since our cars are unique! Thanks in advance - all opinions welcome.
  15. Thanks c9zx. Ordering that spring kit now. Any recommendations on the right springs and spacer?
  16. Its not the drain you need to clean, its the inside of the evaporator to remove any oil, metal shavings, etc. You can buy this at any local parts store - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/interdynamics-certified-a-c-pro-power-clean-flush-1.06-lbs.-ca-compliant-ca-1/7010021-p?product_channel=local&store=9511&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=9511&gclid=CjwKCAjw88v3BRBFEiwApwLevTL6Wu5ll4MzLyZ7L4dwm4O_PssOVEeYvPNP9xWN6sEjq5M_2VSu_xoCtUQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Remove your expansion valve and run this through. It has a rubber nozzle you just press up to it. Catch in a pan and dispose of the waste. Run dry compressed air through to dry it out. I let mine sit overnight open to fully dry. About $17 minus any discounts. Advance has 20% right now. One can and its good to go. Ran a can through my condenser because it looked perfect, but realized there was some corrosion inside and just replaced it. Thats how I ended up doing it in pieces. If I could do it over I would have bought the kit like yours and saved. I also looked at the pic of your kit - it looks like they have a one piece liquid line so that's a big savings also.
  17. Its basically the same thing, except from original air. And I went cheap and then wanted to change more parts costing me more than the $800. Mine was CAA. I had no trouble doing it in a day. Clean your evaporator with that expensive cleaner from any auto parts store and vacuum it for an hour before filling. Weight your refrigerant at whatever they tell you and you will be fine. Let me know if you have questions.
  18. Thanks jpaz, good advice. I'm curious about the carb comment. Yes I spent a bunch but I'm open to suggestions if something is better. At some point I'm going to test the BG Demon just because I'm curious and know its like new. Just for reference, running: Edelbrock RPM AirGap intake MSD 8350 Ready to Run Dizzy Accel Coil Honestly when I build the other motor, I'll also swap to a C6 or AOD. Thats what I did in my last 73. A fresh built C6 only cost me $1100 with torque converter. My thought is to keep the original motor original bagged in the garage in case I ever want it all stock for show. Was looking at 408 stoker kits today. $1000 bux at Summit - pistons, rods, bearing, crank. That other motor was tanked and then I went a different direction - still bagged in the garage. I'll have to get it out to the machine shop.
  19. I thought about this too - I have a MSD with a rev limiter but the OP had a Pertronix. Unless that unit is bad somehow. I ran one in another car without problems but a failing unit could cause it. I am really curios about the solution to this one. I do a lot of really techie stuff and I have to solve a mystery!
  20. I did it myself. The only original part is the evaporator. They tell me they are better quality than anything modern if you can reuse yours. That came from the CAA techs. Years back I started playing with AC (Compressor changes, Flushes, etc). This was my first full system. Pretty smooth however: I live in the Tampa Area not for from Classic Auto Air. I even drove over there to get parts and talked to the guys. I'm pretty easy going and getting help was difficult. I ended up chasing parts. Short version, I placed an order from them for pickup and almost a week later they couldn't full it. I cancelled and ordered from NPD (1.5 hours away in Ocala) where it was in stock. Then I decided to replace the condenser and drove over, they were nice enough. I had ordered the liquid line from NPD and they only sent me one part. I drive up on a Saturday to get the second part and realized both ends were male. I spent over an hour trying to figure out how they sell this and it doesn't connect, the NPD guy didn't know either. Ultimately I figured out you also need a $60 quick disconnect valve that has 2 female ends. Nothing in their documentation mentions this and as far as I can tell it doesn't come in the kits. I messaged CAA about this on Monday as well as a couple questions about the amount of R134 and placed a couple calls and never got a reply. I really feel like they should have known since I was working with a senior tech. The no reply was just poor customer service since I also talked to someone on the phone and they gave him a message and they met me in person on the Friday before I did the install. Parts wise and functionally I am happy with the quality though. Everything fit fine with the original brackets and pulleys. My AC is cold. Here's a thing to know, my original air liquid line is 2 pieces. Their reproduction lines are better quality, however it takes 3 pieces, a long line that connects to the evaporator, a short line that connects to the drier and a quick disconnect that connects the lines. About $200 for all 3 parts. As far as evacuating the system, I have a good set of gauges, I just rented the vacuum from a local auto parts store for a few days. Its all very low tech. My advice, if you do it replace everything under the hood. Don't try to save a buck and re-use anything. The old R12 oils, o-rings and lines wont play well with R134. They expansion valve was $22 from O'Reilly Auto. I just checked, with everything, Tax included I spent just under $1100 doing it myself. I would definitely recommend their kit, but don't rely on good tech support. Anything you really need to know you can find online or ask someone here! Hopefully I wont have to test customer service, but if I do its just a 30 minute drive. Good Luck!
  21. I just finished my AC in my Vert - Ice Cold. I didn't replace anything under the dash (Except the blower motor because it was noisy). I just replaced the items under the hood and retained the factory under-dash gear - but my car was factory AC. I'm guessing you bought the full kit?
  22. I do have one other idea based on something new mentioned - You have the operational ram air. Have you tried running without that, maybe put on a open air filter? I saw you tested it, but perhaps the issue isn't fuel starvation but maybe there's some vacuum issue under load that is allowing all the flaps to close and its starving for air under power. Maybe a failed or disconnected vacuum canister. The FMX has nothing electronic in it, its just a big hydraulic pump. Failure = not shifting or slipping. Anything that would limit rpms at this level would make horrific noise. I even tried a search on the web and couldn't find a single reference to a non-electronic transmission causing the conditions described, always the reverse due to slippage. These cars are simple air pumps honestly. Air/Fuel in, combustion, Exhaust out. To oversimplify, The vacuum indicates the engine is in good condition as stable vacuum in a strong range. Your exhaust is free. This leaves 2 options - air/fuel or ignition. Something is failing under load or heat. Could be as simple as not having a resistor on a coil that requires one and the coil overheating. Bad plugs, wires, cap, timing, etc. Or both the current and replacement part have the same problem. Replacing with another one will produce the same results (Ask me how I know). I even considered a rev limiter (My MSD has one) but the OP has pertronics. My money is on fuel. In the garage the car can keep enough fuel for revving above the 3k rpm mark. Under load at steady speed the engine consumes more fuel and its not happening. I had similar issues and had just replaced the entire fuel system - tank, lines and carb. Nearly $1000 so there shouldn't have been anything wrong. I had put on a gauge and pressure was stable 6.5 lbs. It would run for awhile but lose power after a few miles. I could run it in the garage for hours without issue. Out on the road, it would die again after a few miles. Turned out after 2 weeks of testing and trial and error to be vapor lock caused by a number of smaller problems. The fix required removing the clear fuel filter (They cause a low pressure condition)removing the mechanical pump, installing an electric pump at the tank to pressurize the lines, a heat shield, spacers and insulating lines in the engine bay. Granted I live in a much warmer climate but just drove almost 100 miles yesterday in 95+ heat with the AC on and haven't had an issue since I made those changes. Stick will air, fuel, spark and you will track it down!
  23. I ended up using a Holley Mighty Might like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Holley-12-426-Mighty-Might-Electric/dp/B00JS18DXS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=holley+mighty+pump&qid=1592743149&sr=8-1 The Mighty Might sometimes is silent and other times it sounds like a jackhammer. I think its louder when less fuel is consumed and the pressure is higher like at start up. But honestly sometimes I dont hear it and other times I do. Was overall better than the Holleys or Carters and just $50. I tried the Carter which seemed to have a reputation as the quietest but I couldn't stand the whine. I also mounted it on rubber so thats what got left in unless I find something better.
  24. What DonC said. Mounted mine to the rear frame rail with a rubber bushing. on the outside as the exhaust runs inside. My biggest complaint is the noise. I tried several and the Holley was the quietest. You'd think they could make a quiet pump. 😞
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