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MKSpeedlab last won the day on June 4

MKSpeedlab had the most liked content!

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About MKSpeedlab

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1972 Mach 1
    351C 4V - C6
    Blue with Blue interior


  • Location
    Alberta, Canada
  • Region

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  1. I think last time I helped a friend swap diffs he just put RTV and no gasket in his. But that was a while ago so I could be wrong.
  2. Ya once they have been run they will likely be harder to get cleaned up and a nice ceramic coating put on. But talk to some shops near you and see what they can do.
  3. Definately curious about this too. Have thought about buying aftermarket but factory is always nice.
  4. As others said, my first thoughts was maybe the previous owner put a locker in it. Usually with one you can feel it kinda ratcheting around corners and definately notice a rear tire grabbing. If it was a welded diff like Jeff mentioned it would likely chirp tires around any corner but you dont usually feel/hear any ratcheting since welding it basically turns it into a spool so it wouldnt have any give. So my best guess is locker or as others have mentioned maybe your diff needs a bottle of friction modifier.
  5. A lot of the generic power steering fluids out there dont meet the ATF Type F, so best bet is to just try and find some ATF Type F and stick to that.
  6. The nice thing is that "usually" if your buying new rotors they may have the race pre installed so you just need to remove your old one, put in seals and the new bearings(after packing them with grease) and then they are ready to go on. Its not a difficult process, but as Bill mentioned, follow a service manual for tightening the hub nut, and make sure you put a cotter pin in. I recently did mine with all new hardware and it was pretty straight forward. Hardest thing was getting the new dust cap on lol.
  7. You can be the Big Blue in the US, I can be the Big Blue in Canada lol.
  8. My bet is also just some air in the system, it took me a while of bleeding it with the wheels off the ground going lock to lock with the engine off. But mine has been good after changing the box to a red head quick ratio box.
  9. Thank you, its a very easy to understand diagram. I had been using this link for trying to do mine but its for a bit older Ford so the isolation post want in there. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/install-high-output-ford-3g-alternator-older-fords/
  10. Found the PDF from Don C by searching a different way. Posting it here. Ford Alternator Wiring v2.pdf
  11. That post that was linked doesnt want to open for me. But from what you have said and what I found in search while looking for that post, Alt to B+ is all I need. And I can just leave the isolation post with the one wire that is there and not run anything else to it. Im waiting on a set of factory guages for the middle that I bought to arrive. Maybe Im being overboard but I wanted to keep the originals untouched and this way I can send off the Ammeter I get to be converted by rocketman to a voltguage. For now I will likely just unplug the ammeter so that it doesnt turn into a cabin heater if i
  12. So in the case of a new 3G alternator, should it still only go to the isolation post since thats what I originally had? Or would it be better to connect the Alternator to the B+ on the solenoid, and run a short 8guage wire from B+ on the solenoid to the isolation post. Sorry, normally I would have gone with a 1 wire but a friend convinced me to do the 3G instead.
  13. Mine is the tach dash and has the guages in the center. (the plan is get the ammeter converted to volt guage) I looked at the wire and when I removed the original alternator harness the one wire going to that block was gone and only the one wire left. And it looks like it goes down the harness. Maybe I need to take a look at my wiring diagram. There is also that thicker yellow wire that is going to B+.
  14. So I am currently doing the same upgrade and decided to do the Ford 3G upgrade. I have 90% of the wiring done, but as said here, the walkthrough I had said that the alternator wire goes to the solenoid where the original went to that block. My block looks different on my 72 and only has a single post where both the alternator and harness connected. Im guessing I need to just run another wire from the B+ on the solenoid to that little block so it powers everything else. But just thought I would check here first. Im waiting a bit anyways to tap the adjuster on the alternator since it wasnt
  15. Thanks, it turned out to be a blast and Im not going to lie, finding out a beat a Viper and Demon through the obstacle course made me pretty happy. My friend who was taking photos of the event got an action photo that turned out really good. And we got to go on a tour of a local car collection and got to see these 2 beauties. The Shelby is also signed by Carrol Shelby.

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7173Mustangs.com is a community forum designed especially for fans and owners of the 1971, 1972 and 1973 Ford Mustang! We are not affiliated with Ford Motor Company in any way.


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