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MKSpeedlab last won the day on June 4

MKSpeedlab had the most liked content!

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About MKSpeedlab

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1972 Mach 1
    351C 4V - C6
    Blue with Blue interior


  • Location
    Alberta, Canada
  • Region

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  1. Figured I would share a bit of an update. This past week/weekend I was able to get her running again with the new EFI setup, and was also able to install the brake parts as it needed a little love. First off though, I was able to get the new tank back in with the drop in fuel pump, although I had to cut an access panel for it to clear. Im going to be making a cover for it, but since the trunk pan isnt in mint condition I was ok with it. Plus it gives a nice way to be able to access it if I need to pull the pump or anything. Which was nice because I had to do some troubleshooting and would have had to otherwise drop the tank twice. But now everything has been sorted out, and I can vouch for Hyperfuel as their tech was awesome helping me troubleshoot. Which means the Holley Sniper EFI is up and running, and all thats left for it is to take it out for some drives to let it start learning. And I have to say that the pertronix was a big success as well. The original distributor is in with the Pertronix Ignitor 2 hiding under the cap and working perfect. I did have to redo the ends on my wires since they were originally for the other style cap, but that went pretty smooth. All thats left for the dist is to get the timing set and hook the vac advance back up. So with that all sorted out we were able to tackle the brakes. It got new calipers, rotors, pads, drums, wheel cylinders, and shoes. One of the wheel cylinders was seized and looks like it popped a seal, and I think one of the calipers may have also been going the same route. So we got it all changed, and an even bigger plus was that the brake warning light went off while we were bleeding everything, so saved having to fiddle with the pin in the proportioning valve. So all thats left for now is going to be doing a quick oil change, putting some new plugs in it, and she should be good to go.
  2. I have been told by a bunch of people to avoid synthetic unless its something specific for older cars. Older vehicles usually want more Zinc in the oil and synthetic doesnt usually have that. That said, Im going to be running Lucas Oil Hot Rod and Classics synthetic and it has more zinc and stuff to make it a bit better for older style engines.
  3. MKSpeedlab

    Foam Gun

    I got one off Amazon that just hooks up to the garden hose. It works ok. As mentioned, the ones that connect to a pressure washer work much better, but in a pinch the garden hose ones work as well. I just found the one from the garden hose was more like spraying really soapy water with a little foam, where as the pressure washer one is more actual foam.
  4. Not today, but over the weekend I got all the brakes done in it. new rotors, drums, calipers, wheel cylinders, and pads/shoes. Its all bled and the brake light went off so Im pretty stoked that I can cross that off the list. Also went through some troubleshooting with the EFI setup and I think I finally have the problem I was having figured out.
  5. Well I figured I would throw up some pics of my past Mustangs. As I mentioned, my dads car got me hooked early on and I have been lucky enough to have a couple fox bodies over the years. The first one was my 1982 GT. I always saw this car on my drive to school and the front end of it was sitting super high because the motor had been pulled out of it. One day I saw a for sale sign and pulled over and talked to the guy and bought it. The engine was in pieces in a couple boxes, trans was in the hatch. My brother towed it home with my parents Topaz, with me in the car, windows rolled down, stereo blasting, having a great time. It had the factory Recaros, T-Tops, and premium sound, who could ask for more. It also came with the set of TRX wheels, so thats why It has some different ones on the back. I needed tires and couldnt find any so threw on a set we had sitting around for a bit. It ended up getting a T5 swap(got rid of the SROD 4 spd), built a motor for it, and just did a bunch of stuff to it. It was probably one of the most fun cars I have driven. Engine went on an engine dyno before going in and made 347hp and 363ftlb. Some friends and I also stripped the car down to bare metal and it went in for a paint job. And also grabbed some new wheels for it when I did that. Eventually the engine got swapped due to some problems, and a roller motor out of a 95 went in. And before I went far to overboard and swap in something bigger I ended up selling the car. But after a bunch of years without a Mustang, I decided I wanted to try and replace that empty spot. I ended up trading a set of wheels for a 81 Mustang which started out as a 4 cylinder auto. We called it the crop duster because it smoked, burnt oil, leaked oil, and was covered in dust and leaves. But big things were planned for it. Pretty quickly the engine came out, and it wound up getting a 331 Stroker and T5 swapped into it. We also swapped out some of the body parts, it got an 82 GT front end, 5 lug swap, 8.8 with 3.55's, custom guage cluster and tons of other stuff. Again, we wound up sanding the car down and priming it, but it never did end up making it to paint. And then life came up and ended up selling my little race car. It never really filled the spot that my 82 did, even though it was more powerful and had a lot of better parts. I tried a couple things after that, did a truck, a SUV, a couple Subaru's (1 WRX 1 STI), a BMW X3 which is my daily/parts getter, and now finally back into the 72 that started it all.
  6. The green/red wire for the voltage regulator worked perfect. Note to self, dont buy relays off Amazon anymore. But after replacing the relay I was using with a quality one its working great.
  7. That said, I likely will hook it to a relay to make sure the EFI is getting a nice clean 12v when the key comes on. I have heard that the EFI systems like things to be as clean as possible without any noise.
  8. Oooo that might work nice, I the car does have the factory ammeter. Although it will likely change the ammeter to a voltmeter at some point. I will check for that wire first.
  9. I when the car had the Edelbrock I also used the throttle position solenoid wire.
  10. Ok, I'll have to see if I can find where the wire he mentioned is located.
  11. Sounds good, I will take a look tomorrow and see what I can find. Im guessing drivers side somewhere near the washer tank? Do you know if the throttle position solenoid would also work since its no longer on the car? I was looking at the wiring diagram and its a red wire with yellow stripes so is that the one your talking about? Its located on the drivers side of the intake manifold.
  12. I was wondering if anyone knows, or maybe they have installed an EFI system in their car, which wire under the hood would work for a keyed power that also stays on when starting. I have tried to look through some wiring diagrams but just gave myself a headache. I was hoping that the throttle position solenoid wire would fit the bit but was having a hard time testing. The car is a 72 although Im guessing there werent too many wiring changes over the years.
  13. So I was going to move around my 72 the other day, and when I hit the brakes it sounded like something kinda broke loose and the pedal got very soft and the brake light came on. Im guessing that maybe one of the stuck wheel cylinders broke free, but in doing so it also looks like it drained the front brake reservoir which Im guessing is why the light came on. Now do I need to do anything besides going through things and bleeding the brakes once Im done? I had already picked up basically everything for the brakes besides the M/C and hard lines. So just wanted to check, as a friend mentioned that a pin in the proportioning valve may have shifted and may need to be moved back. So thought I would check here since it seems like a pretty knowledgeable crew.
  14. Well I got off work a bit early today so figured I would get started on some of the stuff to prep for the EFI setup. As mentioned, I decided to go with the Hyperfuel Retrofit In-tank kit that they have. I like it because it has the regulator built in so I didnt need to worry about running any return lines from the Holley EFI. I didnt have a 4.5" hole saw, but figured instead of just running out to grab one I would try and see if I could make it work with tin snips. And it worked perfect. Less mess inside the tank, and the cut itself turned out pretty much perfect. So I was able to get things in and ready before dropping in the pump hanger and finishing it up. Its a nice little kit and should work perfect for my goals. Once the old tank is out and this one can go in I may need to rotate the pump for clearance, but thats easy enough to do. But overall I am very happy with how it all turned out.
  15. My bad, it appears RockAuto lied to me. They showed a that OS30214T fit Cleveland and Windsor. And I just assumed that maybe the gasket was the same between the 2 engines. I guess I will be looking for a new gasket for mine before I pull it out.

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