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Everything posted by MKSpeedlab

  1. I learnt the secret of finding parts. Just before finding these I had decided I was going to focus on paying off some bills and trying not to spend so much money on the car. And just like that, when I decide not to buy car parts, poof, car parts I want seem to appear lol.
  2. Besides tinkering on putting the engine back together. I ended up picking up a bunch of front suspension goodies for mine. There was someone on FB Marketplace selling global west upper/lower control arms, and strut rods because they are swapping to a Mustang 2 style front suspension to go with a 2013 Shelby motor swap. So I managed to pick it all up for a good price, and wound up with the disk brake parts, all the steering shafts/tie rods/pitman arm/etc, and even a set of springs. So I will probably wind up selling the parts I dont need to recoup some of the cost.
  3. Ya, just frustrating. Hopefully I can figure something out with them. I was hoping to get the engine buttoned back up and ready to go in over the next couple weeks. So will see what I end up doing.
  4. So talked to TMeyer and it looks like Rollmaster packaged the wrong set in the box. He said the chain is the correct length, but the gears are both the wrong size. And to make it worse, the other 2 sets he has in stock from Rollmaster also have the wrong gears in the box. I just seem to be having no luck putting this thing back together lol.
  5. So after looking more, and some test fitting. Im pretty sure its the wrong timing set. Its supposed to be the CS3091, but when I put the crank gear on, the chain looks WAYYYYY too long. Like if you put the crank and cam gears both on, you likely need to take 1.5" out of the chain. The cam gear has Rollmaster on it, but doesnt show a part number. But needless to say, because I had to hone the crank gear a little to get it on the crank its likely garbage. The Edelbrock one looks like it will work find so I think Im just going to use that and call it a day. But here are a couple pics to show the crank gear stamped on the wrong side, and how long the chain is compared to the Edelbrock one that bolted on fine.
  6. So maybe this is a newbie question. But Im a little confused installing the new Rollmaster timing set. Looking at the pictures on Tmeyers site it makes sense how I would install it. But the timing set I have seems to me like it has the stamps for the adjustable keyways on the wrong side of the crank gear. The side of the gear that is flush(and Im fairly certain goes towards the engine) has the timing marks stamped on it, and the side with the little snout that faces the timing cover has no timing marks showing on it. Am I trying to install it backwards? Im confused now which side actually faces the front. I am assuming it should be like this pic, but the timing marks for the adjustable keyways are wrong then. And Im also now trying to see if I can track down the correct cam retainer plate for it since it came with recessed screws but the cam plate is flat and no tapered bolt holes.
  7. Well before the snow started to hit the ground here I got together with my brother and a buddy of mine to get some pics of all of our cars together. My brother has the 1960 Thunderbird, which he has been putting a ton of work into. He has upgraded the brakes, steering, and put in a C6 and is eventually swapping the 352 for a 390. My friend has the 1967 Galaxy Convertible which is pretty much all original with the 289. Was nice getting all 3 of the cars together and going for a nice little cruise. The second pic is probably my favorite pic of my car from this year.
  8. Well I bit the bullet and ordered a Rollmaster timing set from Tmeyer. Looking at it I agree that it looks like a much nicer piece. @Hemikiller do you happen to have the part number for the pioneer thrust plate? I check Rock auto and they dont have anything for a cleveland. And Tmeyer only showed the Aeroflow ones and I dont love that company too too much.
  9. Im just talking from what I had researched since I thought about doing one on a non conv car. But the gear vendors replaces the tail housing on the trans. So should be tucked up high enough into the trans tunnel that I dont think it would interfere with exhaust.
  10. So I finally got some free time and went to the garage to measure. Its less difference than I had thought.(I guess just looking at it and trying to figure it out with your hand isnt the right way lol). But after putting a flat edge from one gear to the other, the crank gear is still closer to the block. With the best straight edge I could find that fit in the space, I measured and there is about 0.041" to maayyyybbe 0.0625". So Im kinda guessing that I had just over estimated the different when I eye balled it. I am still pondering getting a new set that has a bearing or bronze bushing for the cam gear. But I am guessing 1/16th of an inch isnt a massive worry.
  11. I dont suppose you have a pic under the car that shows where you put the cut outs? Im planning on making the exhaust myself and right now Im just trying to lay it all out on paper since the engine is out.
  12. I have Dynomax Super Turbos and they sounds good, but ironically I find them a little too tame. So Im planning on making the switch to the FlowFX mufflers over the winter.
  13. No it didnt, Ill see if I can figure things out and measure it. I also emailed edelbrock to see what they say.
  14. No I havent, I dont have a dial indicator and had never used one before when doing a cam change. Everything else about the short block is original and has never been touched. Only thing I was doing it putting in the new cam.
  15. Well while I have the engine out of the car I have been installing some of the parts that I have had sitting on my shelf for a bit. Its a 351C and I finally put the custom grind roller cam in, and when I installed the timing set it seems like the cam and crank gears arent perfectly in line. The crank gear seems to be closer to the block. Its the Edelbrock 7821 timing set for a 351C but I was wondering if this is ok or if i need to do something to get them lined up better. I looked online at summit and some timing sets look like they come with a bushing. Should I be ordering a different timing set? And if so, which one should I be getting. I have looked a bit at the Tmeyer site and they have a bunch to choose from, and same with Summit.
  16. The plate im hoping to use is the original one off the car. But if I do have to buy a new one I will definately make sure its the correct balance.
  17. Im assuming that for that I can seat the convertor fully in, and measure the distance from the mounting holes to the bell housing, and then measure the flex plate bolt spacing to the spacer plate, and it all should match up or be very close?
  18. I wanted to post here since I have been digging and searching and cant seem to find a definate answer. Im going to be doing an AOD swap in my 72 and Im trying to find out if I need to buy a new flexplate. The car is a q code 351 C 4V and it currently has the C6. From my research, the AOD needs a 164 tooth flywheel and after counting, my current flexplate is also 164 tooth and the convertor seems to drop nicely into the holes. So based on what I can tell the original flexplate seems to work, but being completely honest, Im kinda a newb when it comes to auto's. Would just be nice if the spacer and flexplate are both good since it saves me money I can spend on other goodies.
  19. I have bought a bunch of replacement parts for my 72 off of Rock Auto and they have never had a problem shipping to Canada. Only time its any problem is bigger items where they want a lot for shipping. And in those cases I will check Amazon or locally first. But all the brake rebuild parts for mine came from Rock Auto besides the front pads since I got Hawk pads and Rock Auto didnt carry them.
  20. Already have a set of 3.50 and a limited slip that will be going in over the winter. Thats why I had been looking at the AOD swap. Found a trans for a good price, now just want to see what else I need to do the swap. Mostly curious if you can use the stock shifter since most things I see dont seem to mention the shifter.
  21. Good to know, I had thought that if they could go in with the engine I could throw a couple towels in the engine bay to keep them from getting too banged up. But thats good to know they go in pretty smooth from underneath too.
  22. I wanted to ask here since most of my experience pulling and installing engines has been with fox bodies with 5.0's. Im getting ready to pull the 351C out of my 72. And while Im not too worried about pulling it, I was curious about installing it with long tubes. I have a set of coated Hooker 6915 headers and I want to keep the ceramic in as good of shape as possible when installing. With my 5.0 I used to just leave the headers on, but wasnt sure if I can get the engine in and the headers under the trans if I have the headers on the engine. So just looking for some info if it works, or if the headers have to be installed after the engine is back in the car. May have also sourced an AOD so was also curious if anyone has any experience with these headers fitting around an AOD.
  23. That may be the route I go for now. I had thought about seeing if a Fox body antenna could work but this one would be nice since it appears to be a direct bolt in.
  24. I figured I would post here before I end up accidentally damaging anything. I have been tossing around the idea of doing an antenna delete because I dont like the huge antenna that is on the car. It has the AM antenna and you can pull out 2 extensions in it and it makes it super long. The problem is that its the tallest thing on the car, and I put a 4 post in my garage and the antenna is getting close to the ceiling. So I was curious if its possible to remove the aerial part of the antenna and put something shorter on, or if I need to remove the whole assembly and just replace it/delete it.
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