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Posts posted by MKSpeedlab

  1. So after looking more, and some test fitting. Im pretty sure its the wrong timing set. Its supposed to be the CS3091, but when I put the crank gear on, the chain looks WAYYYYY too long. Like if you put the crank and cam gears both on, you likely need to take 1.5" out of the chain. The cam gear has Rollmaster on it, but doesnt show a part number. But needless to say, because I had to hone the crank gear a little to get it on the crank its likely garbage. The Edelbrock one looks like it will work find so I think Im just going to use that and call it a day. But here are a couple pics to show the crank gear stamped on the wrong side, and how long the chain is compared to the Edelbrock one that bolted on fine. 



  2. So maybe this is a newbie question. But Im a little confused installing the new Rollmaster timing set. Looking at the pictures on Tmeyers site it makes sense how I would install it. But the timing set I have seems to me like it has the stamps for the adjustable keyways on the wrong side of the crank gear. The side of the gear that is flush(and Im fairly certain goes towards the engine) has the timing marks stamped on it, and the side with the little snout that faces the timing cover has no timing marks showing on it. Am I trying to install it backwards? Im confused now which side actually faces the front. I am assuming it should be like this pic, but the timing marks for the adjustable keyways are wrong then. 

    And Im also now trying to see if I can track down the correct cam retainer plate for it since it came with recessed screws but the cam plate is flat and no tapered bolt holes. 


  3. On 10/25/2021 at 12:12 PM, Don C said:

    Place a straight edge across the cam gear and see how far off it is at the crank gear. If the crank gear is closer to the block it will continuously pull the cam gear against the thrust bearing, as well as cause side loads on the links.

    Did you check the crankshaft and camshaft free end play? 

    So I finally got some free time and went to the garage to measure. Its less difference than I had thought.(I guess just looking at it and trying to figure it out with your hand isnt the right way lol). But after putting a flat edge from one gear to the other, the crank gear is still closer to the block. With the best straight edge I could find that fit in the space, I measured and there is about 0.041" to maayyyybbe 0.0625". So Im kinda guessing that I had just over estimated the different when I eye balled it. I am still pondering getting a new set that has a bearing or bronze bushing for the cam gear. But I am guessing 1/16th of an inch isnt a massive worry.

  4. 23 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    My solution was to use the Dynomax STs with exhaust cutouts. This setup gives you the flexibility of running relatively quite with cutouts close but then you can control the "volume" by opening the cutouts as much as you want. Find the version of cutouts where you can control the opening manually rather than either fully opened of fully closed. I am typically cruising with the cutouts closed, but when going to a car show or in the track I open them slightly to get the rumble sound and reduce any performance restriction the mufflers and pipes provide. I don't typically run them fully open because it gets obnoxiously loud but then my EFI struggles in ide due to the location of the O2 sensor near the cutouts.

    Edit: to clarify, what I mean with opening/closing the cutout flap "manually" is really via an electric motor, but you can control the motor from inside the car by manually hitting the rocker switch so you control the amount of flap rotation you desire instead of fully open or fully close.

    I dont suppose you have a pic under the car that shows where you put the cut outs? Im planning on making the exhaust myself and right now Im just trying to lay it all out on paper since the engine is out. 

  5. Well while I have the engine out of the car I have been installing some of the parts that I have had sitting on my shelf for a bit. Its a 351C and I finally put the custom grind roller cam in, and when I installed the timing set it seems like the cam and crank gears arent perfectly in line. The crank gear seems to be closer to the block. Its the Edelbrock 7821 timing set for a 351C but I was wondering if this is ok or if i need to do something to get them lined up better. I looked online at summit and some timing sets look like they come with a bushing. Should I be ordering a different timing set? And if so, which one should I be getting. I have looked a bit at the Tmeyer site and they have a bunch to choose from, and same with Summit. 

  6. I wanted to post here since I have been digging and searching and cant seem to find a definate answer. Im going to be doing an AOD swap in my 72 and Im trying to find out if I need to buy a new flexplate. The car is a q code 351 C 4V and it currently has the C6. From my research, the AOD needs a 164 tooth flywheel and after counting, my current flexplate is also 164 tooth and the convertor seems to drop nicely into the holes. So based on what I can tell the original flexplate seems to work, but being completely honest, Im kinda a newb when it comes to auto's. Would just be nice if the spacer and flexplate are both good since it saves me money I can spend on other goodies. 

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  7. I have bought a bunch of replacement parts for my 72 off of Rock Auto and they have never had a problem shipping to Canada. Only time its any problem is bigger items where they want a lot for shipping. And in those cases I will check Amazon or locally first. But all the brake rebuild parts for mine came from Rock Auto besides the front pads since I got Hawk pads and Rock Auto didnt carry them. 

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  8. 39 minutes ago, Sheriff41 said:

    I'm running Hooker headers and have an AOD.  No issues at all and, like Hemikiller stated, the headers are an easy fit from under the car.  If you go with the AOD you may want to look into a lower gear ratio than the stock.  I went from the stock 3.25 gears, which made the car seem sluggish with the AOD, to 3.89 on a TruTrac and am happy with the result.  I would recommend 3.50, 3.70, or 3.89 depending on your goal.

    Already have a set of 3.50 and a limited slip that will be going in over the winter. Thats why I had been looking at the AOD swap. Found a trans for a good price, now just want to see what else I need to do the swap. Mostly curious if you can use the stock shifter since most things I see dont seem to mention the shifter. 

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  9. I wanted to ask here since most of my experience pulling and installing engines has been with fox bodies with 5.0's. Im getting ready to pull the 351C out of my 72. And while Im not too worried about pulling it, I was curious about installing it with long tubes. I have a set of coated Hooker 6915 headers and I want to keep the ceramic in as good of shape as possible when installing. With my 5.0 I used to just leave the headers on, but wasnt sure if I can get the engine in and the headers under the trans if I have the headers on the engine. So just looking for some info if it works, or if the headers have to be installed after the engine is back in the car. May have also sourced an AOD so was also curious if anyone has any experience with these headers fitting around an AOD. 

  10. I figured I would post here before I end up accidentally damaging anything. I have been tossing around the idea of doing an antenna delete because I dont like the huge antenna that is on the car. It has the AM antenna and you can pull out 2 extensions in it and it makes it super long. The problem is that its the tallest thing on the car, and I put a 4 post in my garage and the antenna is getting close to the ceiling. So I was curious if its possible to remove the aerial part of the antenna and put something shorter on, or if I need to remove the whole assembly and just replace it/delete it. 

  11. 3 hours ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    The seats look similar to the SVO seats with inflatable lumbar and the pull out support in front of seat. Also can adjust the width on small of back. Recaro made them for Ford I think. I have an 85 SVO with the leather seats.
    Did you find some original comfort weave material? If so where SMS is out of white that I need.
    Looks great and for sure more comfortable. I am going to check into an auto upholstery course at our local Tech College today. I took before but rusty and need to practice some.

    Unfortunately I couldnt find the original comfortweave. I think in the 5th post I shared a pic which shows the difference between the original and what I was able to get through SMS. Its definately a little different, but its close enough that I dont think many people would notice unless I mentioned it. And they are definately more comfortable and supportive. Everyone seems to love them, and the pull out thigh support seems to get a lot of people talking at car shows. "Its for tall people" was something I heard a bunch over this past weekend at a show. Heres a pic with me parked next to my friends '21 Mach 1. Now we both have Recaros and sequential tail lights lol. 


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