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MKSpeedlab

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Everything posted by MKSpeedlab

  1. Well since the weather has been getting better I was able to start tackling some stuff again. For years the door panels had some quickly put together speaker grilles for speakers that got put in back in the 70's. The speakers were gone but the doors needed some new grilles. So I decided to put in a new set of speakers in the doors, put on some sound dampening, and fix up the door panels a little bit. For the speaker grills I talked to a friend with a 3D printer and we managed to come up with these. Hit them with some SEM paint and I am really happy with how everything turned out. I still need to figure out something to fix the cracks in the arm rests, but for now they are back on so I can work on other parts. But here are some pics of how it all turned out.
  2. My understanding was that the main purpose of sway bars was to allow manufacturers to run softer springs for a nicer ride in street cars. You can soften the springs but in corners the sway bar would essentially increase the spring rate. So trying to balance and give you the best of both. But as we all know, jack of all trades=master of none.
  3. I ended up ordering the Carpenters. Now just working on cleaning up the tail lights and getting all the residue left by the original gasket off.
  4. I used to have pulley slip in my first Fox body Mustang. I was running a flex fan and that thing moved a TON of air. Belt dressing used to be a regular thing with that car to keep the belt from squeeling.
  5. Well I ordered a set of the Vintage LED tail lights for the car so I am going to need to pull them out to install. So it likely makes sense to replace the taillight gaskets when I pull them out. I thought I had seen someone mention an updated gasket on here before so I just thought I would see if anyone knows which gasket is the best one and/or where to get it from.
  6. I had thought about getting something like this Kenwood Bluetooth Amp. I could put the amp in the trunk and keep the controller in the console and just run its own speakers. So you could keep the original stuff in the dash and just use this on its own. https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_113M1824BT/Kenwood-KAC-M1824BT.html?awkw=298183808798&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=190568851671&awdv=c&awug=9001404
  7. Id love to try and make it to one of these at some point. Likely need to make sure everything is sorted and good with the car before I make that long of a trip with it though.
  8. Like TommyK mentioned there isnt much room above the tank in that spot. I went with a hyperfuel kit which is likely a little shorter than the one in your pic, but even still I had to cut an access in my trunk to make it work. Now with that said my trunk floor wasnt in perfect shape anyways, and even when I redo it I will likely keep the access since it will make life better if I ever have to pull the pump (which I have had to do while troubleshooting). Im half way through making a door for it that will have some weatherstripping and a quicklatch to hold it shut. Otherwise if it fits that would likely be a nice way of doing it. I went with the Hyperfuel because it is internally regulated so I didnt need to run a return line.
  9. Been tweaking some custom speaker grills that I was able to get a friend to 3D print for me. Ordered some SEM interior paint which should match a little nicer, but these are turning out really nice. There is one more revision that we came up with that will have some recessed screw holes to make mounting it a little more secure/stealthy. But should look much nicer once all said and done, plus some new Kenwood speakers going underneath.
  10. I have been looking at some coilovers for the front of mine and was looking at the QA1 but I have also heard good things about the Viking ones. Thinking I may try the Viking ones since I can get both the front coilovers and rear shocks for a decent price.
  11. Looking for both parts of the cigarette lighter, the part that mounts in the dash, and the knob. Im hoping to see if I can make something similar to the pic but dont want to hack up the one in mine in case I fail miserably. Must be willing to ship to Canada.
  12. Thats what I had been kind of thinking. Im guessing thats what I will end up doing, just figured Id check if there was something easier that worked.
  13. Well I thought I would post here and see if there is a good/easy spot to get constant power from under the dash. I am looking at installing a second small fuseblock that I could use to connect guages, and maybe an aftermarket radio. Id be using a relay to make it switched, but need a good constant power to use for the relay. Just though I would ask before I try crawling under the dash and poking around.
  14. Thats kinda what I had thought about doing. My Current plan right now is upgrading the strut rods (I really want to get the TCP, but might get something else), refurbing the lower control arms and adding a plate to them to strengthen them, and then for uppers Id like to likely replace them since I know some update the geometry and help out. And then likely either coil overs or some good springs and shocks.
  15. You must have used regular grease, you need to use high performance brake grease lol. Mine is purple for added braking.
  16. Personally for my Holley EFI I ran a relay that is activated by the terminal wire at the solenoid. This way the Holley gets power directly from the battery since I have heard that these Holley kits can be very cranky if the power isnt nice and clean or if there is any RFI. I had actually been looking at picking up some RF blocking wire loom just to go through things and make sure to eliminate any chance of RF.
  17. Do you by chance have any pics of the one piece headliner installed? I have a hole in mine that luckily is under the visor, but you post kinda caught my eye when you said it gives a little extra headroom.
  18. If the fox body Recaro's I am going to be putting in are any indication, the seat tracks are swappable between fox body Mustangs and ours. The problem I found when I test fit the Recaros is that they sat pretty high. The Recaro's had a spacer at the bottom I was able to remove but then I needed to make new mounting holes in the seat base. I could likely also pick up a set of adaptors to mount my now lowered Recaros to the original rails, but the price just seems too high for what it is. And the nice thing is that mine are now mounted about as low as they possibly could be. I just still need to take them in to get them recovered.
  19. I put a set of Hawk HPS pads on mine when I went through the brakes last year. I feel like they work really good and in the one little mini autocross I did with the car they worked great, even managed to lock up all 4 wheels trying to stop into the stop box lol. It was an "spirited" run that run.
  20. I did it because I like the idea of it not spilling coolant on the ground should it get too warm. Not that it ever happens, but just preventative. Plus if I do ever take it to the drag strip they require an overflow so you dont puke coolant on the track. So simple enough and doesnt bother me having it.
  21. This is what I ended up doing. Was able to use existing threaded holes which was a bonus.
  22. Ya Im having them gone through. What I was told by the local shop is that Speedmaster has been working to improve the quality on their parts. He said he got to go down to see where they assemble them and the valves now appear to be sourced from Manley(although not their top of the line valves). I have no dilusions of them being amazing, but I just couldnt make something like the Trick Flows work right now. I had already planned on new springs to go with this cam likely, the heads are actually at the shop right now getting spring pressures tested because they agreed that the springs are usually on the soft side. So maybe I will get them to give me a price on better valves and check the seats while im at it.
  23. Is it goes all the way in but wont tighten or take any torque my bet is either stripped or maybe someone broke one before and drilled/tapped it bigger at some point.
  24. Well since winter set in a little while ago, projects on the car have slowed down but not stopped. I finally got around to installing the new RCC Innovations volt guage, and besides wondering if i cooked it when I installed it, it looks great. Just not thinking, I had run a new wire to the positive side of it to provide the positive, but for some reason I completely spaced on also needing to run a new ground. So I remedied that but it seems to sit in the middle of the guage and bounce around a bit even though it should be up in the mid 14's according to my Sniper EFI display. I also started some more mods under the hood. I have been piecing together parts to build a 408 Stroker, but right now a lot of the parts are ones that can be bolted on to the current motor for some extra fun. I started with electric fans which are now mounted, but need to be wired to the Holley Sniper, which freed up a bunch of space now since there is no more big shroud or metal fan. And the parts that are going to be going on the motor are a set of Speedmaster 220cc heads, matching intake, along with a mix of goodies from Comp and ARP, and finally the Hooker headers that I got at the beginning of the year and had modified with Vbands instead of the 3bolt flange. I had also wanted a set of black finned valve covers like these, but these came up locally for cheap, and couldnt help but grab them. I also ordered a roller cam and lifters from Cam Research, the new bump stick will be 272int/280exh .520 lift and 112LSA. I just wanted something to make it a good cruiser for now so they said they were focusing more on torque than high rpm hp. Should all make this thing a blast to drive. But now for some pics.
  25. Any complaints about the TCP ones? Did it change the ride much? As I said the car is mostly a cruiser, but it will likely see some corners every once in a while. I looked at some of the ones you mentioned, and right now Im really liking the TCP design compared to some of the others with a more basic rod end.
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