Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by MKSpeedlab

  1. It is supposed to be self learning, but it seems to be struggling. Cruising seems to be ok but the off idle response is pretty bad. The car used to be able to light up the tires with the Edelbrock, but with the EFI it almost stalls if you give it too much throttle. Im trying to work with an out of town tuner friend but thought if someone had a good basemap off a cleveland it may help as a better starting point. It seems like its really lean on tip in and then gets rich.
  2. Do you mind if I ask what you have done to your engine? Im running the Holley Sniper EFI and am really struggling with the tune. And was wondering I someone else who has one may be able to share their tune file. All I have done is a Edelbrock performer 4v intake and the EFI (Original Dist with Pertronics so no timing control on the Holley).
  3. Sadly I think mine needs more than a fresh paint job. Im just going to try and figure out which company makes a repro one that works the best and likely get a new one and give it a coat of paint. Im a little torn as when the car was repainted in the 70's, they painted the lower front valence body color along with the splitter. So I feel like If Im doing the Argent splitter, I need to also repaint the lower valence to also be the argent.
  4. Just ignore that poor front splitter. Im hoping to replace it this winter.
  5. I was always really worried about claying a car, but honestly its not too bad. I went to a local detailing shop and talked to them about it and got their recommendations. Its mostly just time consuming, and I wont lie, my hands and arms were a bit tired by the end. But with mine needing a bit more work it likely took me a few hours to clay bar it. After that when we first polished it we did it at a friends house with a Torq polisher he had some finished it with the Meguirs Ultimate, and it looked really good. But I realized I hadnt done as good a job on the second half of the car. So thats when I decided to buy my own polisher and got the Griots one and it works great. I went over the hood again using the Griots Correcting Cream and then their Finishing Compound, and then by hand with their Wax and I was much happier the second time. I think I was much more apprehensive about using a power polisher on it, but it was a good learning experience and Im really happy with the result. The clay was pretty easy, and just take your time with a polisher and it should turn out great.
  6. Not very often I can be the first one to post in a new subforum. But saw this open up and figured I would share my little project with the car over the last little bit. The car had been sitting in a garage with a cover for many years, and the paint was feeling kinda gritty so it definately needed some love. So I ended up picking up a clay bar to decontaminate the paint, and then took some time with a polisher and some friends to finish it up. The clay I used was the chemical guys medium clay with their clay luber. It took likely the whole afternoon to go over the car and the whole bottle of lube but even that alone made a massive difference in the feel of the paint. After that, I ended up picking up a new Griotts G9 polisher along with a couple of their compounds and went to work with those. It took a while but man what a difference it all made. After the compounds we finished the car with just some Meguirs wax and it looks SOOO much better than before. I am going to go over and repolish some of the car since the first time I didnt know as much about what I was doing, and now I feel a bit more confident with the polisher. But definately love the results and it wasnt as intimidating as I thought it originally was.
  7. Well I figured I would do a little update after getting a few more things done with the car as well as taking some time to enjoy it on a charity cruise. I think I mentioned the charity cruise is another thread, but it was a very cool time. It was mostly exotics, but a few older cars and met some really good people. And it was for Kids with Cancer so you cant really beat the cause. I will also throw a link to a short little video from the event. Started off rainy but the day cleared up and turned out awesome. Even got to take the big horse on the police obstacle course(which scared away a bunch of exotics worried about hitting a cone). After that I realized the original alternator was getting a bit weak. Especially with the electric fuel pump, EFI, and likely more things to come. So after doing some research, I ended up going for a 3G alternator upgrade. Normally I would have gone for a 1 wire, but I do like how simple this was, and the parts availability if it ever dies. Tried to keep the wiring fairly inconspicuous, and may try to clean it up more over the winter. I also managed to come across someone local who was selling a radio that he had been running in his 73 Mustang, so I bought the radio along with trim piece for it. Also grabbed a set of tail lights he had, and he ended up throwing in a box of small little parts for the car which is awesome to have. But I not have AM and FM, which is nice because there arent many AM stations around. After a little bit of research it looks like the radio might have been from the later 70's, but it fits in perfect and all I ended up doing was trimming the little piece that comes down in front of the radio so it looked a little better. I did some other stuff as well but didnt get pictures. I had to change the starter as the old one decided it was time for retirement. Which sadly left me seeing her come home on a flat deck since I was kinda stranded. But new starter went in no problems and works like a charm now. Im keeping the old and will likely get it rebuilt so I have it should I ever need. I also changed out the rear springs in the car. I ended up getting a set of the Dayton "Improved Handling" rear leafs which are supposed to measure at 138lb/in and 650lb load. I think they are basically the OE spec for the Mach 1 springs. And besides one of the eye bolts siezing in the sleeve and needing to be cut out, the install went really smooth. I also put in poly shackle bushings and the repro GT shackles, along with new ubolts and eye bolt so everything is basically new and working great. Other than that, an afternoon with a clay bar, some time with a polisher and she is looking shinier than ever. Just looking for more opportunities to take it out before the winter gets here.
  8. I think last time I helped a friend swap diffs he just put RTV and no gasket in his. But that was a while ago so I could be wrong.
  9. Ya once they have been run they will likely be harder to get cleaned up and a nice ceramic coating put on. But talk to some shops near you and see what they can do.
  10. Definately curious about this too. Have thought about buying aftermarket but factory is always nice.
  11. As others said, my first thoughts was maybe the previous owner put a locker in it. Usually with one you can feel it kinda ratcheting around corners and definately notice a rear tire grabbing. If it was a welded diff like Jeff mentioned it would likely chirp tires around any corner but you dont usually feel/hear any ratcheting since welding it basically turns it into a spool so it wouldnt have any give. So my best guess is locker or as others have mentioned maybe your diff needs a bottle of friction modifier.
  12. A lot of the generic power steering fluids out there dont meet the ATF Type F, so best bet is to just try and find some ATF Type F and stick to that.
  13. The nice thing is that "usually" if your buying new rotors they may have the race pre installed so you just need to remove your old one, put in seals and the new bearings(after packing them with grease) and then they are ready to go on. Its not a difficult process, but as Bill mentioned, follow a service manual for tightening the hub nut, and make sure you put a cotter pin in. I recently did mine with all new hardware and it was pretty straight forward. Hardest thing was getting the new dust cap on lol.
  14. You can be the Big Blue in the US, I can be the Big Blue in Canada lol.
  15. My bet is also just some air in the system, it took me a while of bleeding it with the wheels off the ground going lock to lock with the engine off. But mine has been good after changing the box to a red head quick ratio box.
  16. Thank you, its a very easy to understand diagram. I had been using this link for trying to do mine but its for a bit older Ford so the isolation post want in there. https://www.hotrod.com/articles/install-high-output-ford-3g-alternator-older-fords/
  17. Found the PDF from Don C by searching a different way. Posting it here. Ford Alternator Wiring v2.pdf
  18. That post that was linked doesnt want to open for me. But from what you have said and what I found in search while looking for that post, Alt to B+ is all I need. And I can just leave the isolation post with the one wire that is there and not run anything else to it. Im waiting on a set of factory guages for the middle that I bought to arrive. Maybe Im being overboard but I wanted to keep the originals untouched and this way I can send off the Ammeter I get to be converted by rocketman to a voltguage. For now I will likely just unplug the ammeter so that it doesnt turn into a cabin heater if i run the car.
  19. So in the case of a new 3G alternator, should it still only go to the isolation post since thats what I originally had? Or would it be better to connect the Alternator to the B+ on the solenoid, and run a short 8guage wire from B+ on the solenoid to the isolation post. Sorry, normally I would have gone with a 1 wire but a friend convinced me to do the 3G instead.
  20. Mine is the tach dash and has the guages in the center. (the plan is get the ammeter converted to volt guage) I looked at the wire and when I removed the original alternator harness the one wire going to that block was gone and only the one wire left. And it looks like it goes down the harness. Maybe I need to take a look at my wiring diagram. There is also that thicker yellow wire that is going to B+.
  21. So I am currently doing the same upgrade and decided to do the Ford 3G upgrade. I have 90% of the wiring done, but as said here, the walkthrough I had said that the alternator wire goes to the solenoid where the original went to that block. My block looks different on my 72 and only has a single post where both the alternator and harness connected. Im guessing I need to just run another wire from the B+ on the solenoid to that little block so it powers everything else. But just thought I would check here first. Im waiting a bit anyways to tap the adjuster on the alternator since it wasnt threaded and I dont want to have to use a nut and bold.
  22. Thanks, it turned out to be a blast and Im not going to lie, finding out a beat a Viper and Demon through the obstacle course made me pretty happy. My friend who was taking photos of the event got an action photo that turned out really good. And we got to go on a tour of a local car collection and got to see these 2 beauties. The Shelby is also signed by Carrol Shelby.
  23. Figured I would share on here. Yesterday I got to go on a charity drive to raise money for the Kids with Cancer society. The event called Horsepower for Hope was able to raise $263k without costing a penny to run thanks to donations. We were broken into teams with a bunch of checkpoints all over the city and my team was mostly exotics, but also had a older Restomod 66 Corvette and a 69 Camaro that was on a Corvette chassis. I managed to get some video of some a bunch of the cars and everything. And at the end of the day/video, we got to take the cars on the local police obstacle course. I wasnt expecting much but was blown away with how it did. Looking forward to doing more stuff like this in the future. Im definately glad I had put the quick ratio steering box in it. The end of the video is the obstacle course if you want to see that part.
  24. Mine got a new starter today. Old one would only turn things over once in a blue moon. Also pulled the retrofit fuel pump out and redid the clamps and line on it again since it pushed off the line yet again. Trying crimp clamps this time.
  25. Right now mine has Lucas oil Hot Rod oil in it which has the extra Zinc, but I also picked up a case of AMSOIL Z-Rod oil that will likely be the diet for mine from now on.
  • Create New...