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About Terry

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    Is that a Mustang?


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  1. Thanks, it is what I thought I’ll give it a go.
  2. Hi All, I was wondering how to paint my front bumper being eurethane and was concerned about the paint cracking. is there a process for painting them to prevent cracking, personally I don’t see how you could make 2k paint flexible enough to resist cracking? Would you use plastic bumper primer over a pre stripped bumper then paint 2k as normal? would appreciate some feedback on this one as I’m getting close to having her ready for paint this is where I’m at so far. regards Terry from Australia
  3. Thanks great advice, I have now rebuilt my gear box all the internals we’re in great condition. Thanks for you help doing the diff next. Terry
  4. Hi Terry,

    Answer to your question regarding bonnet extension being removed.....Yes, and same goes for rear quarter extensions..left and right side. This will allow for good coverage in those areas when paint is applied. 

    Bonnet/hood looks great is it recommended to remove the front bonnet extension prior to painting then assemble afterwards ? mine is below
  5. Thanks great advice, I will attempt to rebuild the box with a rebuild kit from NPD in the U.S. they deliver to Australia in a couple of weeks, I will update my progress. Cheers.
  6. Hi All, I am in the process of restoring my 72 Mach1 Q code and wanted to get other opinions on either restoring my original power steering or upgrade to the Borgeson steering box ? As I’m a bit short on cash I would prefer to restore my original what are your thoughts ? also should I try to restore my disc brake power booster and master cylinder or replace with new ? looking forward to receiving some replies Terry
  7. awesome job hope mine turns out as nice as that. mine is a 4 v 351 with power and air, no ram air though, did you use the original power steering box ?
  8. Looks great on both cars, great job. Not sure which way I will go yet body colour or satin black, black will be a lot easier less prep, no clear coat, minimal maintenance, body colour does look great though mine would be light Pewter. thanks for the photos
  9. I just want to ask about Seam sealer I am using Sikaflex 221 under the car some areas were seam sealed really well and other areas not at all ? made it difficult to understand after I stripped it all off including most of the old paint, I noticed there were chassis components that were plated like a zinc type product these items were not seam sealed from the factory. i just copied what was there before, should I have done that or seam sealed everything in sight ? i still have time to seam seal more before I paint.
  10. Thanks for the advice guys, as I’m painting my car the original colour light pewter I may consider this for the engine bay but not underneath I r think I will go with the Satin of flat black . and my door does look a bit sad, Fabrice your probably right a new door or door skin would be best. i might have a go at the welding though and working it straight just for the practice.
  11. I am rebuilding my 72 mustang and have Brushed, sanded, cleaned, etc the bottom of the car, coated in epoxy etch then epoxy primer now ready for something else to finish I was thinking epoxy satin black same as I’m considering for trunk and engine bay. also found a heap of holes drill and punched into LH door under old filler, I am planning to weld up holes epoxy etch and refill any thoughts or opinions/recommendations/tips welcome
  12. Hi All just another update from Aus,

    Mustang is progressing well, I have spent many hours on the end of my grinder with wire wheels cleaning up the engine bay and underside, for others thinking of doing this, effective but dangerous with wires flying off the wheel, make sure you wear a  face shield.

    cleaned it up then sanded With 120 grit, high pressure washed with degreaser then detergent, then wax and cleaned many times.

    then painted with 2k etch primer, next 2k high fill, then Satin black.
    I found one bit of rust which I cut out and repaired one the rear quarter lucky was only the one bit in the car.

    im starting on the boot/trunk next I’ve noticed it had a rear end collision at some point  and will need a lot of work to do it properly

    until next time.











    1. Terry


      Ended up having a go at repairing the door I beat the holes flat as they were punched inwards like a funnel shape I think they may have been used as a form of supporting all the bonds it had in it maybe 1/4 inch thick. Even though it held up well no cracks in it. After welding all the holes I went work beating the door into shape to reduce the bonds required after 4 hours I improved it a lot by stretching the material with a hammer and dolly was difficult though as the door has a heavy cross member on the inside I had to work around. I ended up with a couple of spots that were popping in and out. I managed to resolve these with some heat. After I was finished the bondo was approx 1/8 thick over etch prime so pics.

      do you guys think this will hold up or should I bite the bullet and buy a new door skin, I just don’t have a lot of cash. 
      I also did a lot of work on the front fender looked like a previous accident.




    2. Terry


      Back into it again and decided to go the cheaper easier option and paint engine bay, underside and boot/trunk area 2k satin black turned out pretty good. I can work towards getting her back on her wheels now.




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