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Terry

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Everything posted by Terry

  1. I though this as well, thanks for the feed back I will also provide details and photos as I progress. nearly ready to go. regards
  2. Hi all does anyone know how to remove the cable assy from the drivers side Mach 1 mirror it looks like the cables are crimped in both sides I have removed the actual mirror without breaking it and the cables have tiny ferrules crimped to them. im thinking I may need to mask them up and paint as an assembly? any ideas welcome. regards Terry
  3. Thanks Don i have done this buy building up door edge and cutting back and rewelding trunk edge, and it looks great compared to before my car has no rust anywhere except for a tony hole 1/4 inch in quarter panel which I cut out. thanks Don.
  4. Are these fender fillers for all 71-73 mustangs ? My 72Q code Mach1 never had them so I did not know they existed until now, I did think it was an unsightly gap though.
  5. Thanks guys for your advice I guess I will do the best I can and within my abilities for the best outcome, I will continue to post as I progress Terry
  6. Ok I was told in a previous post the engine and transmission weight may have an impact on the gaps ? I have tried ever adjustment possible with the door I could bring it closer to the quarter panel but at the end of the day the alignment issue will travel with the adjustment either at the quarter or the fender ensuring the top and bottom are aligned. the trunk lid is a bigger issue it can be clearly seen even without the quarter extensions that the is an alignment issue, I can see it has had a rear collision in the opposite quarter panel and rear panel as the rear panel has been replaced and braised in with an oxy maybe this was not a great repair and has led to this alignment issue, note this alignment was never good even prior to me starting the resto process. the quarter panel in question has never had a major impact however does have some issues , the door alignment as well as the trunk alignment but there is also a fault in the curve from the roof line to the quarter extention it should be a nice shallow convex curve as the other side is but it has a wallow in it I will try to get a photo to better explain it at the end of the day I cannot adjust the alignment issues away I can see no other option but to cut and weld to reshape.
  7. Hi David, thanks for your reply, my car is back on its wheels and has no engine or transmission currently as they are being restored, fair comment regarding weight. Fortunately my car has no rust nor has had any major impacts to the body, it did have many smaller dents though but not structural damage, the extra weight should close up the door gap somewhat, what if I use concrete blocks to simulate engine etc. then recheck gaps. ??? since my last post I fitted the boot lid to find quite a bad gap as well, after close inspection one quarter panel passenger side has been spot welded out of square by approx 1/8 this can be seen fairly easily when your looking for it, I attached photo, I plan to fit best I can then cut and weld to improve gap and fit.
  8. Hi All, im in the process of improving my panel alignment for my 72 Mach 1 prior to paint, I have noticed a lot of issues with this. Firstly I have prepared all my panels first by bare metal stripping followed by, dolly repair, 2k etch, filler, then high fill 2k primer. i have refitted the panels to the car at this point to look at the panel alignment with each other, with this I have found misalignment with most, after adjusting the fit multiple times I have locked them into position at the best point I can get through bolting, I still have issues with one of my doors about 1/8 from top to bottom with the gap at the door latch side, I am considering welding the edge of the door slowly to build up the edge to improve the fit ? next the eurethane bumper does not fit well, not sure what I can do with this yet any ideas appreciated, One of the front fender extensions does not fit nice, I would like to bend it about 1/16 but worried about it being brittle and snapping any ideas doing this ? i have noticed the quarter panels do not marry with each other when fitting the trunk lid, maybe 3/16 out on one side , also one front indicator is approx 3/16 out compared to the other side. to me it seems the car was not jigged perfectly prior to spot welding it together I say this as it has never had a major crash only superficial damage. has anyone had similar experience with these issues? If so, how should I tackle them. Regards Terry from Australia.
  9. Thanks, it is what I thought I’ll give it a go.
  10. Hi All, I was wondering how to paint my front bumper being eurethane and was concerned about the paint cracking. is there a process for painting them to prevent cracking, personally I don’t see how you could make 2k paint flexible enough to resist cracking? Would you use plastic bumper primer over a pre stripped bumper then paint 2k as normal? would appreciate some feedback on this one as I’m getting close to having her ready for paint this is where I’m at so far. regards Terry from Australia
  11. Thanks great advice, I have now rebuilt my gear box all the internals we’re in great condition. Thanks for you help doing the diff next. Terry
    Bonnet/hood looks great is it recommended to remove the front bonnet extension prior to painting then assemble afterwards ? mine is below
  12. Thanks great advice, I will attempt to rebuild the box with a rebuild kit from NPD in the U.S. they deliver to Australia in a couple of weeks, I will update my progress. Cheers.
  13. Hi All, I am in the process of restoring my 72 Mach1 Q code and wanted to get other opinions on either restoring my original power steering or upgrade to the Borgeson steering box ? As I’m a bit short on cash I would prefer to restore my original what are your thoughts ? also should I try to restore my disc brake power booster and master cylinder or replace with new ? looking forward to receiving some replies Terry
  14. awesome job hope mine turns out as nice as that. mine is a 4 v 351 with power and air, no ram air though, did you use the original power steering box ?
  15. Looks great on both cars, great job. Not sure which way I will go yet body colour or satin black, black will be a lot easier less prep, no clear coat, minimal maintenance, body colour does look great though mine would be light Pewter. thanks for the photos
  16. I just want to ask about Seam sealer I am using Sikaflex 221 under the car some areas were seam sealed really well and other areas not at all ? made it difficult to understand after I stripped it all off including most of the old paint, I noticed there were chassis components that were plated like a zinc type product these items were not seam sealed from the factory. i just copied what was there before, should I have done that or seam sealed everything in sight ? i still have time to seam seal more before I paint.
  17. Thanks for the advice guys, as I’m painting my car the original colour light pewter I may consider this for the engine bay but not underneath I r think I will go with the Satin of flat black . and my door does look a bit sad, Fabrice your probably right a new door or door skin would be best. i might have a go at the welding though and working it straight just for the practice.
  18. I am rebuilding my 72 mustang and have Brushed, sanded, cleaned, etc the bottom of the car, coated in epoxy etch then epoxy primer now ready for something else to finish I was thinking epoxy satin black same as I’m considering for trunk and engine bay. also found a heap of holes drill and punched into LH door under old filler, I am planning to weld up holes epoxy etch and refill any thoughts or opinions/recommendations/tips welcome
  19. Hi All just another update from Aus,

    Mustang is progressing well, I have spent many hours on the end of my grinder with wire wheels cleaning up the engine bay and underside, for others thinking of doing this, effective but dangerous with wires flying off the wheel, make sure you wear a  face shield.

    cleaned it up then sanded With 120 grit, high pressure washed with degreaser then detergent, then wax and cleaned many times.

    then painted with 2k etch primer, next 2k high fill, then Satin black.
    I found one bit of rust which I cut out and repaired one the rear quarter lucky was only the one bit in the car.

    im starting on the boot/trunk next I’ve noticed it had a rear end collision at some point  and will need a lot of work to do it properly

    until next time.

     

     

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    1. Terry

      Terry

      Ended up having a go at repairing the door I beat the holes flat as they were punched inwards like a funnel shape I think they may have been used as a form of supporting all the bonds it had in it maybe 1/4 inch thick. Even though it held up well no cracks in it. After welding all the holes I went work beating the door into shape to reduce the bonds required after 4 hours I improved it a lot by stretching the material with a hammer and dolly was difficult though as the door has a heavy cross member on the inside I had to work around. I ended up with a couple of spots that were popping in and out. I managed to resolve these with some heat. After I was finished the bondo was approx 1/8 thick over etch prime so pics.

      do you guys think this will hold up or should I bite the bullet and buy a new door skin, I just don’t have a lot of cash. 
      I also did a lot of work on the front fender looked like a previous accident.

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    2. Terry

      Terry

      Back into it again and decided to go the cheaper easier option and paint engine bay, underside and boot/trunk area 2k satin black turned out pretty good. I can work towards getting her back on her wheels now.

       

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