1971stang

@midlifeThat is exactly what I thought on the 1st installation that the Lock Washer belonged on the Short Bolt for more Grabbing power and surface area, until I started to question myself after looking back at the original nuts and bolts, the original 50y old hardware where I could see the markings of where it was coupled together. The factory long bolt had exact diameter markings for the matching lock washer and in both cases (old and new) the shorter bolts have serrated edges for grabbing power without any additional lock nut or washer. So I tried the installation again putting the Lock Washer on the Long Bolt and it worked better, primarily because the new replacement bolt was actually 1/4" or so longer than the Factory Bolt, meaning with the Lower Bolt loosened just a smidgeon, you could clearly see the top bolt was too long even fully Tightened into the Block Hole with the Block Spacer in place, to really secure the Top of the Alternator properly. The Lock Washer gave it that extra needed 1/4 inch or at least that was my assessment regarding. In truth I started the car with both configurations and it worked fine, so even if I got it wrong, probably wouldn't have been an issue. @Vicus I think you are correct that the Long Bolt gets the Lock Washer. Thank you gentlemen for your Help !

Hi All, I took my old Motorcraft Alternator off some months back and got sidetracked installing Radiator and working on other projects. Anyway I have a new or rebuilt Motorcraft Alternator and new bolts or hardware, but I am not sure which bolt gets the Lock Washer. Does the Long Through Bolt or the Short Adjustable Bolt get the Lock Washer ? The short bolt does have serrated edges for grabbing, so I am thinking the lock washer probably goes up top on the long through bolt for more grab surface area. Sorry for the this kind of question, but want to get it right so the serpentine belt doesn't slip after the installation and most of pictures and diagrams I found on the internet do not show a washer up top with the through bolt either, they show only the bolt itself feeding through the bracket, alternator and block extension, which further confused me. Thank you kindly, David

Hi 7173 Mustangs Forum ! Trying to decide on what Radiator to buy and install in my 1971 Mustang Grande 351c 3-speed Auto. I could keep it fairly original with copper brass core 3-row using ACP or US Radiator: https://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-radiator-3-row-saddle-mount-302-351c-429-1971-1973/p/RAD3813/ https://usradiator.com/product/ford-mustang-1967-69-v8-260-289-302-351-radiator or switch to an aluminum core 3-row using ColdCase: https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/product/71-73-mustang-auto-aluminum-performance-radiator Opinions on radiators seem to vary also, just like politics and grain or non-grain dog food, lol, I was always told Aluminum cools the best, now I found a forum that actually put down the Aluminum with thicker tubbing and put up the Copper/Brass models with the thinner tubbing. https://www.allfordmustangs.com/threads/best-radiator-for-classic-v8-cars.1080543/ "3 core brass, or if you must, 2 core aluminum." "Imps, any radiator is an engineering solution, and a compromise between surface area and flow. The copper tubes are softer in a brass radiator, and can only be made 'so wide' without wanting to collapse. Aluminum, despite being not-quite-so-good at conducting heat, is stiffer. That means a flattened tube can be wider, so it is. Brass tubes are typically 1/2" wide, while aluminum ones are 1". By the time all is said and done, if you went to a 'three core' (three thicknesses of tubes and fins) with aluminum, you have more surface area to cool with (which is good!) but air has a much harder time making it through so you lose too much airflow. Same with 4-core+ brass radiators. So, simply said: 2 core brass is not enough cooling, 4 cores inhibits airflow. One core aluminum is not enough, but 3 is far too much, and too thick." Oh and I found another article which actually indicates the 351c is better off running HOT, less wear and tear on the motor ? I had previously thought 180 degrees was optimal and less than that was okay to run a bit cooler from (170 - 175), but they were saying its okay to run at 200+ to keep moisture out... https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/clevelands/how-hot-is-too-hot-for-a-cleveland-t9549.html *What do folks on this forum think concerning the Radiators I mentioned and have any of you had good or bad luck with any of them ? I received great advice on my last post regarding Seat Tracks, which nobody else really knew about, so figured why not try to ask about Radiators. This is going to be next project right after I install a PA Performance Alternator 1614e ALT56, which hopefully is Clocked correctly or close to 7:30 and I've got their 1G/3G convertor 462802C ATLCK, both sets of wires w/out w/ gauges WALT7A and WALT7B and 14 gauge power wire regular 9404 and electrolytic copper 9405. Supposed to put out 60 AMPs at Idle and 120 AMPs at 2000 RPM, so a step up in the right direction... Thank you kindly, David

Reupholstered my back bench seat and front bucket seats in my 1971 Mustang Grande, installed new seat tracks and can't remember how the one separate spring connects to the track or seat and perhaps it doesn't make much difference really, but does anybody know the correct spring configuration for the track opposite the lever track or what two points to attach the spring correctly ? Searching for this information on the web only seems to yield 60's pony car results, no '71 - '73 pictures or videos is why I am asking. Picture would be nice !

I recently removed the Steering Column to replace the Plastic End Bushing and Shift Linkage Bushing and was going to do the rag joint or steering coupler also, but my factory Ford one was still in great shape and worked better than the new part, so I simply reused it and then connected back to gear box more easily and also installed a new Scott Drake Turn Signal Switch, but still have the original Ford Turn Signal Switch and Wiring Harness in very good shape. Anyway also replaced glass fuses and everything works fine except the Buzzer, which only Buzzes when the Driver Door is Open, but not when the Keys are in the Ignition in Accessory, On or Off, the Buzzer keeps on Buzzing until the Driver Door is Shut and any Ignition position seems to be irrelevant regarding. Also found out that the there are (2) Ground Wires ontop of the Glove Box metal sheet, one is part of the Buzzer Relay Switch and Wire Connection Harness along with the Hot Wire, the other Ground is connected to a different bolt on the glove box, which confuses me. *To cut to the short, the Buzzer only Works at all when both Grounds are connected to the Buzzer Relay Switch or End Terminal. Is that Odd ? So my choices seem to be Keep the Buzzer Functional only with Driver Door being ajar with both Grounds hooked up or DisConnect the one separate Glove Box ground and let stay Silent for ever more. or I can try and figure out why it worked for 15 years and all the Sudden Stopped when working on the Steering Column and Fuse Box. The only other thing I did was install additional Chrome Mounting Screws into my Custom Kick Panel Enclosures for Speaker Pods, but I don't think I drilled into any existing wires or any thing like that...was very careful and everything seems to be in tact. Ideas anybody regarding what makes the Alarm Buzzer only work with the Driver Door and not be in Synch with the Ignition Turn Switch, is there possibly a small ball joint or bearing on the outskirts of the ignition switch that I missed that needs to be popped out and connect to something perhaps ? Oh I forgot I tried another NOS Ford Alarm Relay and that was dead in the water upon initial installation, so waste of money there, even cleaned its terminals...:-( Only the original Relay seems to Buzz and again only with (2) Grounds hooked up and the Driver Door Open, I got frustrated today, so will look again tomorrow, Thanks !

Okay sure if you could take some pictures, that would probably be helpful. I removed the center bolt and unplugged the green block, but that was as far as I got, seemed like the black fuse block or end housing wasn't going anywhere from that point aside from about (1/2" - 1") leway. So was wondering what all more I needed to do to actually free up the housing, then remove from car and insert the original fuse clips into the new block housing when it arrives.

When you say Clip that Disconnects Engine Harness from Dash Harness, does that mean the Fuse Block should pull right out after Disconnect ? I've unscrewed that Center Bolt before, and unplugged the male and female green blocked shaped wire connectors, but the black fuse box block, cover or housing and wire harness were still closely tied together, which I thought was by way of the metal fuse clips or prongs and that they needed to be individually gently pried inward to free the block up. Wasn't sure either if that was enough and might further have to cut some wires etc...Be nice to also free up some of the wire harness or loom to be able to move the box around a bit, the factory fit is very tight indeed and no leway to really maneuver it much in any direction. I've basically never messed with a factory fuse block or box before, aside from adding my own after market boxes for accessories...

Trying to find information or instructions on how to Remove and Replace only the Black Fuse Block (cracked & chipped) on a 1971 Mustang, pictures always welcome also. The Fuse Clips or Pins look okay (no rust) and the Wiring Harness also looks fine (in tact and everything works), but the Fuse Block itself is Chipped and Cracked in several places exposing the Metal Clips, so was able to find a Grade A Used Fuse Block from WCCC and was searching the Internet/Web for videos, instructions, forums, pictures anything I could possibly find on replacing the block procedure/process, but coming up completely empty. I am not sure if I can just Gently Pry the existing Fuse Clips out and remove a few Nuts including the Center Bolt or if I was going to have to Cut Wires, which I really don't want to do and so forth...

So nobody has used Distinctive Industries ? That is what I pulled out of my 1971 that has been installed and held up for about 15 years... Like I said, all the research I have done reveals (2) main points. 1) TMI is more accurate for MACH I's and has the correct for Piping (Extruded Welted Chord). 2) DISTINCTIVE was more durable for Daily Driver and didn't fall apart, rip or tear as easily. Thanks everybody for your input and feedback !

I am trying to decide between Distinctive Industry and TMI for Standard or Deluxe Seat Upholstery complete set on a 1971 Mustang Coupe w/ Medium Green interior. I believe I like the "Standard" better than the "Deluxe" because I have had deluxe for 15 years and don't like the color difference, plus the "Comfort Weave" is pressed vinyl and not true comfort weave and lastly the standard look nicer to me. But I am NOT sure which brand makes a better quality product to be honest and most Forum entries on this same Topic or very Dated circa 2004 timeframe... Apparently back then TMI was more accurate reproduction for "Show Car" w/ better piping (extruded welting chord piping) and Distinctive was better overall quality with thicker vinyl and padding (but w/ wrapped vinyl piping) for "Daily Driver". But back then both were actually made in USA, now Distinctive is made in Mexico, according to Label Tag's that I found on the web. Distinctive has been around since 1969 though and are generally carry a cheaper price tag. I actually called CJPony and they told me Distinctive was still better quality than TMI and that they sell allot more of their brand, they also said TMI was better for Custom Colors regarding Mach I's. Have any of you Classic Mustang Owners perhaps used both companies or sets of Vinyl or has anybody actually compared these (2) side by side to note the key differences ? Which one wears better and which one looks better ?

Well I was told that all of the '71 - '73 Coupes / Grandes only came with (1) Driver Side Torsion Bar or Rod, the Mach I's had (2) Shorter Rods Driver and Passenger. So I am not sure how or where to acquire a Passenger Side Torsion Bar, but I found the Driver Side Torsion Bar. If anybody has a LH & RH bars or BOTH rods for a 1971 Mustang Grande, please Email me at 1971stang@gmail.com and I will Buy them. The one existing Torsion Bar that I have was adjusted from Bottom to Middle Groove or Notch on the Hinge on the Driver's Side and although it does work a bit better (not slamming shut from a soft breeze), the Deck Lid or Trunk only Opens up 1/2 way or so on its own accord. I guess I will need to try the Top Notch, but not sure if that will work properly or not. The way I get them installed is by using (2) Zip Ties on the Notched Side to keep the bar in place and then I use a Pipe Wrench and Rag to twist and insert the other end into the Hole, just enough so it stays put, then I gently tap it place with a Hammer...Tried using the Car Jack and that didn't work and don't have a Seal Puller...The Cougar tool looks like its only Designed for Cougars and not Mustangs...And yeah I wear heavy duty gloves to keep from getting pinched and goggles, better safe than sorry and that bar snapped out of place a few times from tension release when I lost my grip with the pipe wrench, which can be dangerous situation if not protected...Anybody got (2) coupe bars or further installation advice, please do post to this forum or email me is fine or you can text me (512) 796-2444. Thanks !

Where did you get the Torsion Rods or Torque Springs from ? I can't find them anywhere for a 1971 Mustang Grande Coupe, unless you buy the entire DynaCorn Deck Lid kit for $400...??