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Animal Lawyer

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Animal Lawyer last won the day on November 15 2020

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About Animal Lawyer

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    Mustangs are cool

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  1. In my (seemingly) never ending saga to change to d0ae heads, the set I thought I bought fell through, but I have found a set D0AE-N heads I n California. The problem is getting them to NY. while seller wants local pickup he is willing to consider shipping, but neither of us have any idea how to pack and ship them safely. Initially thought of boxing them separately but UPS/Fedex are not known for being careful and having them dropped, thrown etc can’t be good for them. open to any suggestions. also any idea of cost north cal to Long Island ny
  2. Thanks, what is the best way to access the blower case? Do I need to disembowel the entire center stack or is there an easy way in for this repair?
  3. My blower motor (1973 factory ac car) has only one speed, so I believe it's time to replace the resistor. I found this part # D3FZ-19A706-A but I also keep seeing the scott drake reprop C8ZZ-19A706-A part number (with 4 contacts) at different dealers, some say it fits only 69-70, others say 68-73. Are they all the same or which do I need? Also, where is the resistor located behind the dash and what is the easiest (requiring the least disassembly) to change it?
  4. In the realm of I feel stupid, I went back and opened up my map light and found I had 12v on one side and a good ground on the other, leading to the epiphany that the bulb had burned out! So too the both courtesy light bulbs, and, lo and behold, the fuse on the back of my kenwood double din. Oops. Seems so elementary to check the bulbs, I guess all 4 quitting simultaneously made me look for a conspiracy. Im sorry for wasting everyone's time. Thank you for directing me back to look for the obvious answer
  5. So, I pulled the radio and tried the hot lead grounded to the brake pedal, nothing, then I tried a known good line and still nothing. I changed the ground to the cigarette lighter and both had power. So I opened the hood and checked ground to the block, good and to the fender and cowl, all good. Seems I have good ground in the engine compartment but not inside the car? This I really don't understand. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions? Do I run a ground directly from the battery to the two courtesy lights, the map light and the radio?
  6. I guess I will pull the headlight switch and start there. Weather kept me from troubleshooting yesterday, when I get a few minutes (I really hate how work interferes with my car time) I will pull the radio to check for power there and the light switch to check for power at the black/blue and green/yellow wires at the switch.
  7. do you know where that wire goes? Are the door switches completely separate or do those wires join with the black with light blue stripe wire before connecting to the courtesy lights>
  8. A few observations and a few questions: Since the issue my dash lights are working better (brighter) but I am assuming that is as a result increased voltage due to the headlights no longer drawing current from the switch. The dash lights are still not quite bright enough, but if I turn the dimmer past the detent for the interior lights they become even brighter than the max setting (just before the detent). The courtesy lights & map light are inop whether I open the door or turn them on using the light switch. I therefor I am thinking it must be a ground problem, (otherwise one
  9. gauges, all are working, as an added bonus, taking the headlights off the switch wiring has the added benefit of increasing the instrument lighting, I can actually see the gauges at night, now
  10. thank you, that diagram in actually readable and has an index (as opposed to the scott drake ones)
  11. I will check it tomorrow, does anyone have a diagram (or, even better a list, of what wires are attached to each terminal of the solenoid?
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