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Animal Lawyer

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Everything posted by Animal Lawyer

  1. I bought the car for a fun street driver. Wanted the q code (but a bit more power & compression would be nice (Ok a lot more would be even better)). My mechanic wasn’t able to adequately rebuild the 4300d leading to a swap to 1970 square bore manifold, 670 afm SA carb and dura spark II and hookers. I’m adding working ram air and subframe connectors (Tinman). suspension and brakes redone by P.O., may swap in close ratio ps box. Not sure yet if I want to pull engine and rebuild, so, looking at most cost effective bolt ons for now. Trying to stay with pump gas, too
  2. I just started looking at the aussie heads, I just added a 1970 4v cast iron intake manifold and hooker 6915 (4v) headers. Would I have to swap those to 2v, too to use the aussie heads? btw i am saving all original parts to be able to return to stock
  3. Any idea what I should expect to pay for a set of D0AE-6090-N heads?
  4. Any idea about how much a set of D0AE heads should cost? I will definitely be looking to make the swap. How big a job is the timing swap and are the results worth the effort/cost?
  5. Newbie question - stock 1973 Q code (351c4v) mustang convertible. I have read much about the 1970 closed chamber heads over the open chamber heads I presently have. Is there any advantage and can I swap heads to the cc without changing pistons? Assuming I can do it (I am not sure if the 1973 pistons are compatible (clearance wise) with the 1970 heads) is it worth the effort? What will I gain and what will I lose? Stock 351c 4 speed with 3.25 9" ls rear.
  6. Does anyone have the dimensions of the center console rectangular clocks? Mine is missing and I was looking at 2 alternatives (besides the $200 battery operated quartz upgrade). First, how hard would it be to simply buy a 12v clock mechanism and transplant it behind an original clock face and hands. or If the dimensions are close, substituting a vdo rectangular (such as was used in the volvo or mercedes)? I want a clock there (I am wired for it) but cannot justify $200 for the quartz upgrade
  7. I have a great Kenwood double din nav radio with cameras and bluetooth and sirius that I took out when I blew up my Z and would love to install it in the stang, but won't hack up the original bezel to try. So, before I go purchase a good bezel to try to hack up for a double din install, does anyone already have a hacked up bezel they might want to sell inexpensively?
  8. I have a great Kenwood double din nav radio with cameras and bluetooth and sirius that I took out when I blew up my Z and would love to install it in the stang, but won't hack up the original bezel to try. So, before I go purchase a good bezel to try to hack up for a double din install, does anyone already have a hacked up bezel they might want to sell inexpensively?
  9. Is there any way to reach the articles listed above, the links all return 404 errors
  10. 1973 Q code 351c-4v distributor with the 4 speed was dual point dual vacuum advance
  11. and wiring it this way will allow the tach to work? Thank you if it does I will see about returning the pertronix and ordering these
  12. I will get a photo on monday, I cannot find a good used oem dual point distributor and am unsure what parts I need to go to duraspark II (the more I read about it, the less I understand) I keep seeing posts about parts or harneesses being unavailable except at junkyards. Is there a complete kit available at a reasonable price (anyone have a known good setup to sell or swap for a new pertronix II rtr <grin>? One of my issues is I need to keep the resistor wire for my tach to work. If it weren't for the ram air I would just go to a smaller (13"-14")aftermarket air cleaner
  13. I changed intake to a 1970-71 cast iron manifold and a 670SA carb, (ditching the height wasting egr plate). My distributor was shot so, after being unable to find a good oem dual point dizzy, I bought the Pertronix II rtr (tech at Pertronix said this one will fit). Installed, regapped and engine finally runs great, until I try to button it up and discover the dizzy is too tall for the air cleaner to fit. As I am in the midst of adding ram air I need the room, is there a different pertronix II distributor I can swap that will fit with the air cleaner or is there another workaround that will acc
  14. Thank you, that gave me a real laugh, something I needed today.
  15. so I finally bit the bullet and bought the naca hood, ordered the scoops, locks and mounting kits, still need to decide which blackout scheme (Boss or Mach 1) and get the stencil, cut the lock holes and get the ram air kit (Classic has it on sale right now with discounts and free shipping that bring it down to about $60 less than Ohio Mustang's price (basically save the $50 shipping cost). While I prefer supporting a smaller community involved business... (My wife already feels I am way too far invested into this project). Oh well, boys and our toys...
  16. I am leaning towards the naca hood (I found a brand new one up in your area Hemikiller that I may pick up this weekend for $150. (someone ordered it and then never installed it). I wouldn't cut my original hood if I went shaker, I would buy a repro. None of the changes I am making require permanent modifications to the car and I am saving all removed parts (in case anyone wants to restore it after I'm gone). I like the way the naca hood with the blackout looks on the yellow (see photo, not my car, but the shaker has always appealed to me in all its iterations (especially the hemi cudas and cha
  17. I expect to have the car back next week from resolving the immediate mechanical concerns (swapping to 1970 manifold, holley 670 cfm Street Avenger carb, Pertronix II rtr distributor and hookers, as well as redoing the factory air)) Now I need to decide what (visible) mods I want. I want ram air, just cant decide whether to go NASA hood (which while visually correct for this year, was not available for the 351c-4v) or go shaker (ala 1969 stang). The car is and will always be a driver and pleasure vehicle. I don't intend to race (other than the occasional parkway indiscretion) and I understand t
  18. I had the same problem on an earlier 300zx I owned, finally used a bit of quick curing epoxy, stayed on. Sometimes you just need a bigger hammer.
  19. 1973 Q code I am swapping in a 1970 square bore manifold, need suggestions as to best carb, was looking at Holley Street Brawler 750cfm, elec choke, mechanical secondaries (about 100-150 less than the double pumper with same specs) though I am open to other suggestions. I need to keep the height close to stock as I intend to add either a nasa hood with ram air or the shaker intake. secondly, dizzy is in poor shape, need to go to electronic, am considering petronix II rtr replacement dizzy with the petronix 1.5 ohm coil using the original resistance wire in order to keep original tach, I d
  20. I just bought a '70 manifold w/o the channel Ford Cast # D0AE-9425-L Ford# D0AZ-9424-C Date: (0L12) 1970 November 12th need to have it media blasted. Now need to decide on a carb, I need to get away from the 4300D (will keep it as a wheel chock (or for a future owner if they want to restore it back to original)) Open to suggestions, intend to add ram air nasa hood (though the earlier shaker is also quite appealing), also need to decide on whether to go long or short on headers and depending on which, which brand? I am leaning towards Hookers, but am open to other idea
  21. I just got a set of original styled steel wheels that are missing 2 of the enter cap retaining disks (the flat steel disks almost the diameter of the caps with 2 screw holes that go on the inside of the wheels to hold the center caps on). Does anyone have any they would be willing to sell at a reasonable price?
  22. I have a 73 vert and when I put the front windows down there is a lot of clunking and rattling (though none when they are fully opened or closed). I am told by my glass shop that there is a small plastic grommet in the regulator that degrades and falls out. Can anyone confirm this and are the grommets available? As the windows work and are aligned I would prefer not to have to replace both of the entire regulators to get the new grommets. Any insights would be welcomed. Rich
  23. Is the nasa hood still available? if so, what condition and how much?
  24. manifold still available? will the manifold fit if I want to add ram-air? (I understand height is limited) How much to ship to 11746?
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