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73FastBk

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Posts posted by 73FastBk

  1. On 2/9/2021 at 1:44 PM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    If you go with OEM be sure and look it over good. They are bad to rust out from the inside in the reinforcement. In the rear, near the hinges and also up front in the middle and along the front edge.
    I have several OEM I am in North Carolina. If you are near one of the suppliers like NPD drive to get it or expect damage in shipment. If you get new repo you do have to arch the hood to fit your fenders then weld the hem and seal it up. Also remove the black e-coat on the outside usually rust under it.

     

    Thank you for tip! That’s good to know especially if when buying online. What do you mean by arch the hood to fit the fenders?  Sounds intense but I may have to go that route 

  2. 3 hours ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    I am a retired automotive product, process and tooling engineer. The metals used in the newer vehicles is very different from the old. Ford used a lot of what is called Bake Hard steel. After the parts are formed and the car goes through paint and the bake oven the steel picks up almost a spring steel property. This was to help prevent door dings. The japanese cars do not use it and you see way more door dings in them. Also pretty much all exterior metal is low spangle zinc coated so not good to weld.
    One issue with repo parts is that they use very low carbon steel so if you lean on the car you can bend the quarter and it not pop back out. The original steel was probably a 1006 cold rolled raw steel. When formed it picks up a little strength because of work hardening. If a whole panel needs replacing a good restoration shop cuts out the date stamp like on a fender and welds it into the repo panel so it look more original.
    Without an english wheel and some experience difficult to make your own patch panels.
    Lots of panels on new cars just cannot have a dent or hit hammered out and fixed just will not work.
    A good friend of mine that has a tool & die shop built temporary dies to form quarter panels out of the Bake Hard steel for Petty racing. They could rub fenders a little harder and not bend in or bounced back.

    Dang that a really good explanation. Thank you for the knowledge drop 

  3. 14 hours ago, Galucha said:

     

    The vinyl itself was about $650 in total. I think I used about 225 sq ft. Squeegees, heat gun, and a roll of knifeless tape was cheap - maybe $50.

    Dang that’s amazing. I know it takes a lot of patience and more than one person to do it. Thank you for the info! You’ve definitely sparked my interest

  4. 3 hours ago, Galucha said:

    I wrapped my daily driver. I'm pleased with how it turned out, but it definitely took more time and patience than I anticipated. Make sure you buy at least 20% more than you think you'll need and go with one of the name brands like 3M or Avery. 

    PSX_20210305_134906.thumb.jpg.9d1b3393c941de5dee5c213d98fa99b1.jpg

     

    How much did the material cost you? Definitely want to do this until I can shed 6-7k on a paint job 

  5. On 1/28/2021 at 6:33 PM, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    That looks like one of those medical problems, lol. I kept two solid plugs to go in the ends of hose.
    BTW if you put new core in and it is aluminum add a ground wire to prevent early failure. Ford sent a service bulletin in the 80's about the issue.

     

    Is the aluminum or copper one better? 

  6. On 2/15/2021 at 4:20 PM, TheDude said:

    FWIW - Here's mine running craigslist 20's all around. Sorry don't have great pics as we've been working on it non stop. 20x9.5s in the back with 315/35/20s and 20X8.5s with 255/40/20s up front. With that wide a tire there is still a reasonable amount of sidewall in the back IMO and looks pretty good. The front sidewalls look to thin. It's at stock height so I think lowering an inch or two up there will make that look a lot better. Eventually I'll probably go 18's or 19's with a taller sidewall. 

    Personally I'd stay away from 17" wheels unless you know exactly what you want and don't think you will want to tweak the fit as there are just far fewer size options in 17s. 

    Also for what it's worth, it handles and rides really good with this setup considering its all stock.

    image.png.0147be529d2b029c35e8e71bbc49d002.png

     

    I need more photos pleaseeeeee

  7. 8 hours ago, Don C said:

    If it was rebuilt with umbrella seals that is a possibility. Another possibility is rust and/or frozen rings. easy enough to pull the valve cover.

    After that I would start with a compression test of all 8 cylinders.

    Another possibility is the intake gasket is leaking,

    Thank you  very much, I will look at those options before having to tear it apart. I just want to make sure I do everything else before pulling the engine out. Thanks again :34713505_1:

  8. Here the quick back story

    Back in 2003 my dad and I bought a used 351C and had it completely rebuilt. I was planning on swapping out the 302 for the 351 in 2004 but I ended up going to college and life got in the way. Fast forward till now.... I took the car to the shop for the swap which included the c6 Tranny. The engine idles perfectly fine and starts right up.

     

    but... once you turn it on, it starts blowing blueish smoke on the left exhaust (no H pipe) It takes about 1 minute warming up before it blows smoke. Do y’all think it’s the valve stems? I figure they might have  dried up after not running for 18 years. I have videos of it as well

  9. 6 hours ago, Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs said:

    I get my paint from NPD and for hard ABS plastic i use the lacquer. You do need to give really good scrubbing with dawn dish washing and hot water then lacquer thinner. When you start spraying if you get fish eyes stop and clean more. two light even coats so you don't fill up the texture. I did these recently and the color match was perfect for the ginger I was doing.
    On finding door panels keep an eye out for crashed mustangs on the insurance yards. I got perfect Ginger interior that way.
    Part of that panel that is behind the seat was not sprayed and you can see matches perfect.
    There is a place in California I think that will rebuild door panels and dashes forget their name. Very expensive.

    20200703_185013.jpg

    20200703_185130.jpg

    20200703_185222.jpg

    20200703_185234.jpg

    Ya I did the same for mine too. Turned out great !!

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