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Kenny nunez

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Everything posted by Kenny nunez

  1. The reason I asked about the cam is if it used the original firing order. Did Edelbrock say which firing order should be used? Your engine is wired with the original 302 order in the picture.
  2. It looks really good. Which cam are you using? 302 or 351
  3. You may have to drill a small hole in the front of each primary throttle plate so that you will not have to turn the idle stop screw so far. The sweet spot is around 1 turn after the screw contacts the lever. If you have a Holley you can accomplish the same thing by adjusting the secondary throttle stop screw. By having the stop screw turned so much the next circuit in the carburetor is cutting in and the ported vacuum is open to the vacuum advance, this effect will happen no matter which carburetor you are using. You can google the process or get a Holley tuning book from Barnes & Noble.
  4. Pull the plugs and spin it over in case water entered the manifold. If the cylinders are dry you may have a worn timing chain. With your finger in the #1 hole bump the engine over and when you fell the compression then with a 1and 1/16” socket turn the engine and line the “0” mark on the balancer with the pointer on the timing cover. Remove the distributor cap and check which way the rotor is pointing in relation to the #1 terminal in the cap. good luck
  5. Do you have the transmission coolant lines and the shift rod from the transmission to the floor shift ? If so e mail ksnunez @cox.net. I am restoring a 71 that has a lot of the wrong or missing parts. Thanks.
  6. Try this , Insert the strut rod from the front and move the bar back and forth which should help break the rubber away from the rusted inner sleeve.
  7. Shift linkage and kick down lever, 71 Mustang. ksnunez@cox.net
  8. I have the wrong shift linkage that is on the C6 in my current 71 Mustang project. The PO has it rigged up with no safety switch and a B&M shifter. I am rebuilding the C6 and need either the correct part or the Ford part # along with the kick down lever. ksnunez@cox.net
  9. Many thanks guys. I will be tackling that soon after I finish rebuilding the C6.
  10. Floor shift to transmission shift lever. ksnunez@cox.net
  11. It is a 2 barrel engine with with a single plane intake. I honestly cannot say much more about it other than it has a mild cam. It idles with 10-12 inches of vacuum and you can hear the overlap in the exhaust. After sitting for 30 plus years it started up with a borrowed carburetor and a replaced fuel pump. I added an Accel ignition module also. The guy had a 750 double pumper on it which I will also sell with the engine, the borrowed carburetor belongs to a friend who’s car is down right now. I plan on pulling the C6 this week to rebuild it so it would not take me long to pull the engine if you are still interested. Thanks for the inquiry, Kenny. 504 427 6905
  12. Ford came out in 62 with self adjusting brakes. I worked at my Dad’s shop after school and the first time I pulled the drums on a 62 Ford I wondered if I would ever be able to get it right, we had an old Cajun guy who worked for us and he bailed me out, and many times on other things. I just did a complete brake job on my 71 and I can still hear that old guy advising me in my head.
  13. The slightly blurry picture is correct. All you need to correct yours is a good pair of pliers or vice grips to grab and pull the spring.
  14. I do not like to “nit pick”but your lower brake spring is not seated properly in the respective locating hole. The whole hooked end has to be inside the hole in the brake shoe.
  15. The engine is running in the car and I plan on removing it soon. I am keeping the C6. 100 lbs on all cylinders plus 50 psi oil pressure. No clicks or knocks. Was garage stored 30 years. Has AC bracket, single plane intake. $500.00
  16. Where is the sensor that senses when the evaporator is about to ice up and controls the compressor clutch. The PO rigged up a toggle switch to manually control the clutch. I will probably pull the AC- heat box to replace the heater core anyway.
  17. Will the body try to “spread out” when I cut out the rusted panel?
  18. This car was originally the green similar to 67 Ford Inverness green or dark moss green the same color as the Bullit color then some idiot painted it white, added a Mach 1 hood, spoiler and stripes. The paint is probably the worse I have ever seen. Cracking, falling off. I hope I can bring it back to the original color. Basically the poor thing is a rag! About 80% of the body is solid, small holes on the passenger side floor, about 18” over the r rear fender lip and a hole in the r rear floor about 3”. The carpet, seats and door panels with a cracked dash are hurting.
  19. The 302 crank broke while it was at a stop sign. He said that there was a noise before but no one could pin point the source. All at once he said it let go and scared the hell out of him and shut it off towed it home and slammed in the 351/C6. The crank broke right in front of 1@5 The 302 has a D71 # on the block. I do not know how many miles the Cleveland has but the fuel tank was causing problems and the brakes were gone so he just parked it in his garage and buried it under what ever did not fit in the car. The plate expired in 88. The build date on the car is 10-70. I had a stern drive shop for 30 + years and one time the Coast Guard brought me a boat with a 302 that broke the crank @ 4500rpm and it destroyed the timing cover. On he pad behind the manifold is F134722. The cast # on the block is D1OE 6015 AA. And also what looks like OK16 The vin #. F05F134722 which definitely proves the 302 is the original.
  20. I just purchased a 71 that came with a 302/ 4 barrel/ c4. Currently has a Cleveland/C6. The block has a broken crankshaft where they all break but it did not damage the block. The block has a D1 number but the intake has a C8 number. It had a valve job at some time and I hope that the heads are the originals. How can I tell if the heads are the originals?
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