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Posts posted by jmontes

  1. Well above 2K... 

    Like I said, been through 3 alternators. They all have charged at 14+ volts upon initial install and stay there with all the lights, wipers, A/C, electric fans, and stereo on. They will perform flawlessly for a couple thousand miles and then one day just drop down to 9-12v and stay there. None of them ever go to zero. 

    Voltage checked on the Alt. stud with a multimeter as well as confirmed on the aftermarket dash mounted voltmeter.

  2. 5 hours ago, tony-muscle said:

    I don't know about their alternators but I had bad luck with their steering pump. I think their stuff is not any better than buying a whatever brand from ebay. I have had good luck with my DB Electrical. I also have their starter motor. This brand has very good reviews. However, maybe there is something else in your system that is not working well with the alternator.

    Thanks! I run DB Electrical 1 wire alternators in my boat and have never had an issue... I'll take a look.

  3. 5 hours ago, Galucha said:

    What does your wiring look like from the alternator to the starter relay junction/main harness yellow wire? Sounds like you've got wiring issues somewhere other than the alternator itself.


    Also would strongly recommend running a 100A inline fuse, if you're not already.

    All of the wiring under the hood is all new as i had to add relays to run the EFI, electric fans, and electric fuel pump. The only wire that was reused from the underhood harness was the ignition switch.


  4. 5 hours ago, Bentworker said:

    Are you pressure washing your engine bay or something?  Also- when are you checking voltage?  Most one wire setups won’t start generating any power until the engine is revved a bit to flash the field.

    No pressure washing... Voltage check is well after the car has been running for a bit. It is not an "exciter" issue. Also have a volt meter in the dash... Thanks for the thoughts and response.

  5. Good Morning - I am having a run of super bad luck with Tuff Stuff's 100A 1 wire alternators... since the rebuild, we have gone through 3 of these things in about 7K miles. They all start out producing 14+v but then one day will just stop working. Is there something and these Mustangs that don't like the 1 wire set up?

  6. I have the following parts left over from our 71 build. All engine parts are 351 C 4V

    2 consoles - Both would be considered for parts or repair. One has a clock $50 each

    Alternator and aftermarket voltage regulator - $40

    Edlebrock 4BBL carb - $75

    Edlebrock Torker Intake - $150

    Gauges - $125

    Valve Covers - $30

    Stereo - $25

    Trunk floor and rear sheet metal - repops/brand new $100 for both (local pick-up only) Not sure what brand, came from CJ's


    Buy to pay actual shipping charges. Open to offers. Pics are too big to upload. email me at jmontes75 at sbcglobal.net 

  7. Did some searching... Now that I have the 71 up and running, my son won't quit driving his new ride.  I'll bet he has put 500 miles on it since last Sunday. :biggrin:

    Last night when he got home, the ignition key would not turn all the way back to the arrow. It turns back enough to kill the car, but not enough to take the key out. 

    To complicate things, the car was once an auto that has been converted to a 5 speed. From what I read, sounds like there is a "lock rod" inside the column?

  8. Tony - Thanks for the pictures. My bracket is similar to what you have with the York/Sanden adapter. however, it sits much lower than your compressor. I will try don's suggestion, but ultimately, I think i will fab a fixed idler like what you have and move the whole thing forward to run off the front crank pulley.


    Thanks Don! I will tighten it up and see what happens.






  9. Reviving this one... I installed a CCA kit on a 71 that was missing all the factory compressor brackets. I reluctantly ran the A/C compressor belt off the Alt. as recommended using their supplied Sanden adjustable bracket. After 30 miles the belt melted from getting so hot and came apart. Towed the car home because of course, now I had no alt. Replaced the belt and checked for trueness using a long metal straight edge and made an adjustment to the compressor mount. Belt is still getting smoking hot. Thoughts? Doesn't seem too tight. Got about 1" up and down.

  10. Hello everyone... Is it normal for the turn signals to work when the key is in accessory mode (turned backwards)


    I am having a heck of a time with the new stereo I installed for my son and noticed this while trying to troubleshoot. I some of my searches, it looks like the white/purple stripe that I thought powered the original AM radio ties into the turn signal circuit?? I pulled switched power off this circuit for the new stereo but am now thinking that may have not been a good idea... Lots of crackling through the speakers and the amp goes into protected mode when you turn up the volume indicating it does not like the voltage. The amp is wired direct to the battery with 1/0 to the trunk and a dedicated 6 ga. ground. Only the remote power trigger is tied to the amp from the head unit.


    I am thinking that maybe the remote voltage is whacky?

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