Jump to content

Q1SVT

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Q1SVT's Achievements

Apprentice

Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Sounds like the shop has a better option on which seal to use...? because the original seal is available for about $3.00 part # 072 https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=FMX&TransPartsType=FMX
  2. Hello, thank you for your post. I am on my first rebuilding engine process, so about technical things I am not the best. But I will use my stock heads, valves I have are from Alex's parts.

    Tomorrow I need to bring heads to the machinist cause not enough clearence between stem valves and new guides.

  3. I like to use correct-oem parts.... I would use your heads... Those heads can simply be opened to the 2.19 IN, & 1.71 EX [pic is a D3 4V head opened up] BUT a 2.19 1.65 is a better combo for a stockfish build. If you want to stay stockish, Manley makes two valves that work great for flow... A 2.08 Pro Flow Race Chevy, correct length for 351C 4V/2V 2.05 sized [with old heads that have had valve jobs over time it helps to increase size just a very little to get valve back to correct depth], and an EX 1.655 extreme duty. PM if interested.
  4. Yes, it is a Boss D1ZA-CA intake... But ALL 1970-73 Ford 351C OEM 4V intakes are the same castings [runners]. The differences are iron - aluminum, and the size of the spread bore... yes even the 'L' intake is a spread bore, the primaries are smaller than the secondaries. Maisano modified the D1ZA-CA spread to a square bore 850 carb w/ 1-3/4" bores, removed the area between the primary -secondary [increased the intake plenum area, needed for a 383ci+], cut the divider 1/2" allowing the motor to balance the two planes, and allow it to act more like a single plane intake @ 7,000+ RPM. Kind of raises questions on the BS tests of the OEM Ford intakes.... A 351C ci that will run idle to 6,000+ does better w/ a four hole intake [w/correct bore sized to carb] and a 1/4"- 3/8" cutout or spacer... depending of how much you spend @ 6,000+ jm2c
  5. A Boss 351C like build, but a 383 ci @7000 RPM First runs with a Holley Strip Dominator Manifold HP 625 at 7300 Torque at 5600 490 Factory Dual Plane with .500 divider cut down HP 585 at 7000 Torque at 5100 470 https://www.facebook.com/ken.maisano/posts/3224929100891150 Ford generally did not CUT the dividers, they used cutout spacers... Many 351C owners got the 780 carb & spacer from the 1969-70 Boss/Eliminator 302. [see pic]
  6. Good day.... "to fit the transmission" you just need to understand that has to do with the 'lever' used at the transmission... If you look at the new modern auto shifters for the most part they are generic [fit Ford, GM, etc] what is different is cable length, and the lever used for the specific transmission... Okay the most classic auto shifter [since you are going to build a console] is the 1967 Pontiac GTO Dual Gate 'His & Her Shifter'... They are being remanufactured and sold by many outlets... Sorry I had a computer crash, and lost the specific parts Cable & Lever needed.... but it came w/a GM Turbo 400, so that's your key in your research... *** Note, Melfunctions I searched the net and Holley no longer lists the Dual Gate. ...IIRC they had set it up for either GM - Ford/Mopar 'Park Detent' ... I do not know whom is manufacturing the ones available today so don't think they will work with a ford. *** Okay this guy is odd in a good way and builds some interesting auto shifters... No one down under will have one LOL... He worked for a number of the big USA shifter companies, knows his stuff. I've used his three stick models on a couple of custom hotrods & salt vehicles... Brian Kilduff - there are a number of youtube videos out there... https://www.kilduffmachine.com Seems Brian makes them for RHD --- i need one for RHD ( Australia, Japan, England )Select all that apply https://www.kilduffmachine.com https://www.npdlink.com/product/shifter-dual-gate-hurst-fully-assembled-incl-shifter-cable-chrome-top-plate-wood-grain-overlay-shifter-lens-light-housing-and-shifter-ball/194044/10288
  7. Yes should always block exhaust crossover unless you drive in winter... That prevents exhaust heating intake/Air... Turkey Pan keeps Hot Old from hitting bottom of intake and heating the air flowing ... LOL, I used both Turkey & the thicker style gaskets... as we did many years ago, did have to mill the flanges. That will screw with the Cleveland experts lol pic included - pink is Pematex on the turkey pan Bottomline, in a street car under hood temps are always high, so AL INTAKES, don't actually differ much from iron. BUT should always run a Phenolic carb spacer to keep carb heatsink down FYI, the performer RPM has same/similar sized intake runners as stock 351C 4V, the performer has/uses the 2V runner cross-section.. same for the Air Gap both designed for Edelbrock Cleveland AL heads [really just 2V heads... Their 2V intake was a smaller runner than stock also...
  8. The intake you have is a very good one... was used on the Torino's & Montego's beccause it made torque. The issue is modern carbs have different sized carb pad bores. Your 750 is a square bore w/ 1-11/16" openings @ intake side. The L intake is actually a spread bore [primary's are smaller than the secondaries & both are smaller than 1-11/16. Old days you could buy an adapter, but here is one that you can open up a little on the intake side to match the L manifold.... Make a cardboard pattern off of your intake and use a Dremall to open it up. A fel pro 60058 base gasket [or two of them] has correct bores and creates an open spacer between bores.. Can have intake bored also... but both changes will out flow/perform Edelbrocks, and other intakes... YES there are those dyno MULE tests... If you read the details THEY use a dyno 850 carb [1-3/4 carb bores !] the two guys knew how that MISMATCH would FK-up air/fuel flow, add an open spacer [air flow is screwed up even more to flow back into a 4 hole intake]... or they are dumb & dumber .... good way to sell intakes ;^) Yes I have questioned the two directly... they just have chosen not to comment ... wonder why LOL [find old 1970-75 car magazines, the L has been written about many times...] .
  9. ... I'm building a Hydraulic master/slave system... WHY because of the SUPER COMP HEADERS>> If you read any Fox Body, or SN95 blogs on cable they do not like them... and more so if you need a heavy clutch pressure plate. But they do use an adjuster and clutch quadrant. BUT the cable systems Do Not work with long tube headers The MDL cable wears @ the end near the pedal... :^( Setup a number of top loaders with Wilwood slaves like in the pic [not mine, just similar, different fork attachment], but the newer style cable mustang fork needs a lever to switch slave from pull/push. So I just need to know if anyone has/can measure the centerlines? thanks
  10. Ever stick weld? Use a 1/4 grinding oval burr, follow the crack 1/8" deep and just past the ends of the crack... https://www.mcmaster.com/4292a65 Get some stick welding rod trade name ENi-CI (Ni99) 3/32" Mc Mster has in in 1/2#, 3/32 dia https://www.mcmaster.com/7973A612/ You can pre-heat little [not require] but liker to heat 200-250 around general area Try to weave the weld back & forth in the 1/4" grove as you run the length in one pass. I use Cronation 211, but they do not sell it in smaller poundages...
  11. Thanks, I knew that... they do not work well with Super Comp Headers and the 79-93 mustang fork ;^) they are pull forks, toploader are push forks. Need measurement/ratio so I can fab a different style unit and use a hydraulic master...
  12. 1971-73 mustang manual clutch equalizer bar linkage Does anyone know the measurement of the: ‘centerline of the equalizer bar to the centerline of the upper clutch linkage hole on the equalizer bar lever’ ? There might be a difference on the clutch fork side, but that one is not needed. Thanks for any help, converting to a manual transmission and do not have access to an equalizer.
  13. Cleveland guys have old motors... the more you deck the heads/blocks and bore cylinders to just fit a piston will kill their longevity fast ... adjust the piston to fit the motor you have. jm2c Cheeper than I thought... retail plus YOUR changes [samples of what they have]. find one close to what you need then alter. My JE's started with 351C flat top changed bore to 4.005, moved pin for long rods, had top cut for custom dish & set compression for a 4V '4' 61.5cc heads.
×
×
  • Create New...