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Q1SVT

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  1. Steve there is just too much MONEY to be made selling Mustang parts... even 71-73 Info that could affect others ability to make those $$$$ , seems to me to disappear. I purchased my 73 Cougar new and have gone through many different periods of 'knowledge' lol For those that will drill and switch bottom plates and want an OEM look [no bolts] AMK sells rivets for the lower A-Arm ball joint replacement... need to make a tool to cup the rivet top in a press. cannot remember if we had to shorten them... I think not
  2. You did not list the type of car... 73 coup-fastback or convert? The 73 motor mounts and 73 pedestal-frame brackets are different .. Since you have your OEM mounts... drill out the rivets old/new [302/351 wrong ones] 351C Torino/Ranchero and use new engine mount top and your old OEM bottoms and just bolt them back together... it's worked for decades ;^) EDITED, been a long time ago, we used the 351c T&R Mounts to convert them for the cougar/mustang Edited2, I dug into my files, we used the Torino, Ranchero small block mounts. Since 73 Cougars/Mustang use the same mount for the left/driver, and right/passenger sider the trick in the Torino's mounts is to use two right/passenger side mounts [it has the four rivets]. The Torino mounts should have excess spacing with the bottom plate so you can shim about 1/16-1/8" one side and about a 1/4" on the other. number 665 is an OEM C&M mount, the 662 is a T&R right side mount yes, you can drill out the rivets and change the bottom plates between the cougar/mustang and T&R mounts
  3. correction ... my 1970 Jan/Feb 4V is a D0AE-J and it has the extra drain holes. what I'm interested in is a motor disassembly of an original 1970 351C 2V motor and it's casting data and parts
  4. LOL, the picture is your image... from our older posts. have no proof that it's only a 4V block, but I personally only found them on early 4v's 1970ish & boss blocks. Having worked at fords if there was a need for a part they used what ever was available so you could find them on a 2V [a 2 block block is a 2 bolt block]... We in the day looked for 70 4v's only to get all of the better parts... I still have a jan/feb casted motor L block that has the extra holes. If anyone knows how different block cast numbers were allocated across the 4V & 2V motors it would be interesting... other than a 71 Boss L block. Are you saying the front drain hole below the distributor at the valley floor? see picture. flashing happens along the casing parting lines everywhere.. some is remove by hand, most is cut away during machining processes. During engine prep/blue printing you would remove it for a number of reasons, and chamfer oil holes.
  5. Not for performance on a 2V, just better drain back on a street motor... the valley generally drains back on to the crankshaft... extra oil for normal driving is okay, on a high RPM motor will reduce HP, increase windage... What you are seeing on these pictures is 'flashing' from the casting process. This topic is like talking about which 'OIL' is better ... If you are going to completely disassemble the heads then it is good [not needed] to de-bur de-flash the extra iron... and clean the heads... Not going to take them apart the flashing is okay ot leave. If building a performance motor I would take the heads apart and de-flash the metal. jm2c
  6. There are differences between a 351C 2v & 4V heads... The size of the intake runners causes some of the differences, but the main reason is performance. Production 2V heads in the areas you pointed out allow for oil to drain back into the valley faster... Production 4V were designed for more performance, under higher RPM valve springs get hotter, so oil is used to cool the springs. OIL in the 4V head can rise up to a higher point to cool the springs. Only drain back via drain holes in the lower corners & push rod holes... Same for some early 351c 4V blocks had extra hole in the rear corner to allow the valley to drain in cornering G-forces
  7. ALL 1971-73 Convertible Cougars & Mustangs have the engine 1"lower in the bay, same for all 429CJ's... Ford did it by using a different ENGINE PEDESTAL / FRAME BRACKET - CONVERTIBLE AND 429CJ - not the motor mounts, or differences on the engine block attachments. 1973 motor mounts are different but that was due to 1973 safety standards, but the spacing are no different 71-73 RAM-AIR - ford did not change the height of the 351C 4V intakes, and yes Blue Thunder is about an 1" higher. All 351c 2V intakes are 1" higher than the 4V's... and ford offered Ram-Air 71-73 for both 2V & 4V... I am not aware if ford using different bases... or different seals on Mustangs 2V/4V my guess is they just fit either way since there seems to be only one seal part number D1ZZ-9B624-A
  8. good info has been shared... steel planetaries, roller thrust bearings, more clutch disks/plates, etc... Most good stuff is from the E4OD transmission... Depending on what you want/have for rear gearing, many replace the C6 first & second gears from the E4OD 2.71, 1.54 verses C6 2.47, 1.46 ... more gettty up out of the hole w/o a big rear gearing allowing a nicer cruise in 3rd/highway the best torque converter Ford ever offered came in the 429 SCJ [believe you had to order the drag pack] , it had eight stud TC and flex plate, rated 3,000-3300. That sounds hight but a 429 SCJ made a lot of torque lowering the actual stall ... 2,500??? That converter was available after market F33A P1A 10-1/2" had a thick backing ring to fit a standard four hole flex plate here's a video ... funny good old boy talking about C6 rebuild good info
  9. Sounds like the shop has a better option on which seal to use...? because the original seal is available for about $3.00 part # 072 https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=FMX&TransPartsType=FMX
  10. Hello, thank you for your post. I am on my first rebuilding engine process, so about technical things I am not the best. But I will use my stock heads, valves I have are from Alex's parts.

    Tomorrow I need to bring heads to the machinist cause not enough clearence between stem valves and new guides.

  11. I like to use correct-oem parts.... I would use your heads... Those heads can simply be opened to the 2.19 IN, & 1.71 EX [pic is a D3 4V head opened up] BUT a 2.19 1.65 is a better combo for a stockfish build. If you want to stay stockish, Manley makes two valves that work great for flow... A 2.08 Pro Flow Race Chevy, correct length for 351C 4V/2V 2.05 sized [with old heads that have had valve jobs over time it helps to increase size just a very little to get valve back to correct depth], and an EX 1.655 extreme duty. PM if interested.
  12. Yes, it is a Boss D1ZA-CA intake... But ALL 1970-73 Ford 351C OEM 4V intakes are the same castings [runners]. The differences are iron - aluminum, and the size of the spread bore... yes even the 'L' intake is a spread bore, the primaries are smaller than the secondaries. Maisano modified the D1ZA-CA spread to a square bore 850 carb w/ 1-3/4" bores, removed the area between the primary -secondary [increased the intake plenum area, needed for a 383ci+], cut the divider 1/2" allowing the motor to balance the two planes, and allow it to act more like a single plane intake @ 7,000+ RPM. Kind of raises questions on the BS tests of the OEM Ford intakes.... A 351C ci that will run idle to 6,000+ does better w/ a four hole intake [w/correct bore sized to carb] and a 1/4"- 3/8" cutout or spacer... depending of how much you spend @ 6,000+ jm2c
  13. A Boss 351C like build, but a 383 ci @7000 RPM First runs with a Holley Strip Dominator Manifold HP 625 at 7300 Torque at 5600 490 Factory Dual Plane with .500 divider cut down HP 585 at 7000 Torque at 5100 470 https://www.facebook.com/ken.maisano/posts/3224929100891150 Ford generally did not CUT the dividers, they used cutout spacers... Many 351C owners got the 780 carb & spacer from the 1969-70 Boss/Eliminator 302. [see pic]
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