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Q1SVT

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  1. correction ... my 1970 Jan/Feb 4V is a D0AE-J and it has the extra drain holes. what I'm interested in is a motor disassembly of an original 1970 351C 2V motor and it's casting data and parts
  2. LOL, the picture is your image... from our older posts. have no proof that it's only a 4V block, but I personally only found them on early 4v's 1970ish & boss blocks. Having worked at fords if there was a need for a part they used what ever was available so you could find them on a 2V [a 2 block block is a 2 bolt block]... We in the day looked for 70 4v's only to get all of the better parts... I still have a jan/feb casted motor L block that has the extra holes. If anyone knows how different block cast numbers were allocated across the 4V & 2V motors it would be interesting... other than a 71 Boss L block. Are you saying the front drain hole below the distributor at the valley floor? see picture. flashing happens along the casing parting lines everywhere.. some is remove by hand, most is cut away during machining processes. During engine prep/blue printing you would remove it for a number of reasons, and chamfer oil holes.
  3. Not for performance on a 2V, just better drain back on a street motor... the valley generally drains back on to the crankshaft... extra oil for normal driving is okay, on a high RPM motor will reduce HP, increase windage... What you are seeing on these pictures is 'flashing' from the casting process. This topic is like talking about which 'OIL' is better ... If you are going to completely disassemble the heads then it is good [not needed] to de-bur de-flash the extra iron... and clean the heads... Not going to take them apart the flashing is okay ot leave. If building a performance motor I would take the heads apart and de-flash the metal. jm2c
  4. There are differences between a 351C 2v & 4V heads... The size of the intake runners causes some of the differences, but the main reason is performance. Production 2V heads in the areas you pointed out allow for oil to drain back into the valley faster... Production 4V were designed for more performance, under higher RPM valve springs get hotter, so oil is used to cool the springs. OIL in the 4V head can rise up to a higher point to cool the springs. Only drain back via drain holes in the lower corners & push rod holes... Same for some early 351c 4V blocks had extra hole in the rear corner to allow the valley to drain in cornering G-forces
  5. ALL 1971-73 Convertible Cougars & Mustangs have the engine 1"lower in the bay, same for all 429CJ's... Ford did it by using a different ENGINE PEDESTAL / FRAME BRACKET - CONVERTIBLE AND 429CJ - not the motor mounts, or differences on the engine block attachments. 1973 motor mounts are different but that was due to 1973 safety standards, but the spacing are no different 71-73 RAM-AIR - ford did not change the height of the 351C 4V intakes, and yes Blue Thunder is about an 1" higher. All 351c 2V intakes are 1" higher than the 4V's... and ford offered Ram-Air 71-73 for both 2V & 4V... I am not aware if ford using different bases... or different seals on Mustangs 2V/4V my guess is they just fit either way since there seems to be only one seal part number D1ZZ-9B624-A
  6. good info has been shared... steel planetaries, roller thrust bearings, more clutch disks/plates, etc... Most good stuff is from the E4OD transmission... Depending on what you want/have for rear gearing, many replace the C6 first & second gears from the E4OD 2.71, 1.54 verses C6 2.47, 1.46 ... more gettty up out of the hole w/o a big rear gearing allowing a nicer cruise in 3rd/highway the best torque converter Ford ever offered came in the 429 SCJ [believe you had to order the drag pack] , it had eight stud TC and flex plate, rated 3,000-3300. That sounds hight but a 429 SCJ made a lot of torque lowering the actual stall ... 2,500??? That converter was available after market F33A P1A 10-1/2" had a thick backing ring to fit a standard four hole flex plate here's a video ... funny good old boy talking about C6 rebuild good info
  7. Sounds like the shop has a better option on which seal to use...? because the original seal is available for about $3.00 part # 072 https://transpartsonline.com/TRANS_PARTS_FILE/tpcat.php?TransPartsOnline=FMX&TransPartsType=FMX
  8. I like to use correct-oem parts.... I would use your heads... Those heads can simply be opened to the 2.19 IN, & 1.71 EX [pic is a D3 4V head opened up] BUT a 2.19 1.65 is a better combo for a stockfish build. If you want to stay stockish, Manley makes two valves that work great for flow... A 2.08 Pro Flow Race Chevy, correct length for 351C 4V/2V 2.05 sized [with old heads that have had valve jobs over time it helps to increase size just a very little to get valve back to correct depth], and an EX 1.655 extreme duty. PM if interested.
  9. Yes, it is a Boss D1ZA-CA intake... But ALL 1970-73 Ford 351C OEM 4V intakes are the same castings [runners]. The differences are iron - aluminum, and the size of the spread bore... yes even the 'L' intake is a spread bore, the primaries are smaller than the secondaries. Maisano modified the D1ZA-CA spread to a square bore 850 carb w/ 1-3/4" bores, removed the area between the primary -secondary [increased the intake plenum area, needed for a 383ci+], cut the divider 1/2" allowing the motor to balance the two planes, and allow it to act more like a single plane intake @ 7,000+ RPM. Kind of raises questions on the BS tests of the OEM Ford intakes.... A 351C ci that will run idle to 6,000+ does better w/ a four hole intake [w/correct bore sized to carb] and a 1/4"- 3/8" cutout or spacer... depending of how much you spend @ 6,000+ jm2c
  10. A Boss 351C like build, but a 383 ci @7000 RPM First runs with a Holley Strip Dominator Manifold HP 625 at 7300 Torque at 5600 490 Factory Dual Plane with .500 divider cut down HP 585 at 7000 Torque at 5100 470 https://www.facebook.com/ken.maisano/posts/3224929100891150 Ford generally did not CUT the dividers, they used cutout spacers... Many 351C owners got the 780 carb & spacer from the 1969-70 Boss/Eliminator 302. [see pic]
  11. Good day.... "to fit the transmission" you just need to understand that has to do with the 'lever' used at the transmission... If you look at the new modern auto shifters for the most part they are generic [fit Ford, GM, etc] what is different is cable length, and the lever used for the specific transmission... Okay the most classic auto shifter [since you are going to build a console] is the 1967 Pontiac GTO Dual Gate 'His & Her Shifter'... They are being remanufactured and sold by many outlets... Sorry I had a computer crash, and lost the specific parts Cable & Lever needed.... but it came w/a GM Turbo 400, so that's your key in your research... *** Note, Melfunctions I searched the net and Holley no longer lists the Dual Gate. ...IIRC they had set it up for either GM - Ford/Mopar 'Park Detent' ... I do not know whom is manufacturing the ones available today so don't think they will work with a ford. *** Okay this guy is odd in a good way and builds some interesting auto shifters... No one down under will have one LOL... He worked for a number of the big USA shifter companies, knows his stuff. I've used his three stick models on a couple of custom hotrods & salt vehicles... Brian Kilduff - there are a number of youtube videos out there... https://www.kilduffmachine.com Seems Brian makes them for RHD --- i need one for RHD ( Australia, Japan, England )Select all that apply https://www.kilduffmachine.com https://www.npdlink.com/product/shifter-dual-gate-hurst-fully-assembled-incl-shifter-cable-chrome-top-plate-wood-grain-overlay-shifter-lens-light-housing-and-shifter-ball/194044/10288
  12. Yes should always block exhaust crossover unless you drive in winter... That prevents exhaust heating intake/Air... Turkey Pan keeps Hot Old from hitting bottom of intake and heating the air flowing ... LOL, I used both Turkey & the thicker style gaskets... as we did many years ago, did have to mill the flanges. That will screw with the Cleveland experts lol pic included - pink is Pematex on the turkey pan Bottomline, in a street car under hood temps are always high, so AL INTAKES, don't actually differ much from iron. BUT should always run a Phenolic carb spacer to keep carb heatsink down FYI, the performer RPM has same/similar sized intake runners as stock 351C 4V, the performer has/uses the 2V runner cross-section.. same for the Air Gap both designed for Edelbrock Cleveland AL heads [really just 2V heads... Their 2V intake was a smaller runner than stock also...
  13. The intake you have is a very good one... was used on the Torino's & Montego's beccause it made torque. The issue is modern carbs have different sized carb pad bores. Your 750 is a square bore w/ 1-11/16" openings @ intake side. The L intake is actually a spread bore [primary's are smaller than the secondaries & both are smaller than 1-11/16. Old days you could buy an adapter, but here is one that you can open up a little on the intake side to match the L manifold.... Make a cardboard pattern off of your intake and use a Dremall to open it up. A fel pro 60058 base gasket [or two of them] has correct bores and creates an open spacer between bores.. Can have intake bored also... but both changes will out flow/perform Edelbrocks, and other intakes... YES there are those dyno MULE tests... If you read the details THEY use a dyno 850 carb [1-3/4 carb bores !] the two guys knew how that MISMATCH would FK-up air/fuel flow, add an open spacer [air flow is screwed up even more to flow back into a 4 hole intake]... or they are dumb & dumber .... good way to sell intakes ;^) Yes I have questioned the two directly... they just have chosen not to comment ... wonder why LOL [find old 1970-75 car magazines, the L has been written about many times...] .
  14. ... I'm building a Hydraulic master/slave system... WHY because of the SUPER COMP HEADERS>> If you read any Fox Body, or SN95 blogs on cable they do not like them... and more so if you need a heavy clutch pressure plate. But they do use an adjuster and clutch quadrant. BUT the cable systems Do Not work with long tube headers The MDL cable wears @ the end near the pedal... :^( Setup a number of top loaders with Wilwood slaves like in the pic [not mine, just similar, different fork attachment], but the newer style cable mustang fork needs a lever to switch slave from pull/push. So I just need to know if anyone has/can measure the centerlines? thanks
  15. Ever stick weld? Use a 1/4 grinding oval burr, follow the crack 1/8" deep and just past the ends of the crack... https://www.mcmaster.com/4292a65 Get some stick welding rod trade name ENi-CI (Ni99) 3/32" Mc Mster has in in 1/2#, 3/32 dia https://www.mcmaster.com/7973A612/ You can pre-heat little [not require] but liker to heat 200-250 around general area Try to weave the weld back & forth in the 1/4" grove as you run the length in one pass. I use Cronation 211, but they do not sell it in smaller poundages...
  16. Thanks, I knew that... they do not work well with Super Comp Headers and the 79-93 mustang fork ;^) they are pull forks, toploader are push forks. Need measurement/ratio so I can fab a different style unit and use a hydraulic master...
  17. 1971-73 mustang manual clutch equalizer bar linkage Does anyone know the measurement of the: ‘centerline of the equalizer bar to the centerline of the upper clutch linkage hole on the equalizer bar lever’ ? There might be a difference on the clutch fork side, but that one is not needed. Thanks for any help, converting to a manual transmission and do not have access to an equalizer.
  18. Cleveland guys have old motors... the more you deck the heads/blocks and bore cylinders to just fit a piston will kill their longevity fast ... adjust the piston to fit the motor you have. jm2c Cheeper than I thought... retail plus YOUR changes [samples of what they have]. find one close to what you need then alter. My JE's started with 351C flat top changed bore to 4.005, moved pin for long rods, had top cut for custom dish & set compression for a 4V '4' 61.5cc heads.
  19. just my 2 cents... 70 4V cost to purchase plus refurbish $$$, same for 2V aussie [I just had a set done $3,000, all good parts] So I would keep the 73 4V, fyi you can have them redone with 4V CC valve sizing, yes just had a guys head done. he had a 72 & 73 CJ heads [miss match] The 70 intake is a good one, for performance check carb to intake bores ... 750 carb square bores are 1 11/16, 70 . can be bored out to size of cab ... The L looks like a square bore but is actually a spread bore ;^) Open chambers just need more compression. If you have newer pistons you can just order news pistons same size. YES custom pistons will be about $1,000 - 1,200, BUT if you do the math for 70 4V CC heads ... FYI, JE Pistons has what is 'in stock', or made to order. So they are not completely custom, just pay a couple of dollars per change, bore, move the pin to fit rods, pressed pin, set compression etc... the ones you'll want are the Boss 302 pop-ups with your changes. Get to keep and use OEM parts too ... with more Vroooom pic D3-head, 70 L intake, aussie 2v cc edited to add Boss 302 pistons in a 351C no talk actual things DONE
  20. NOT all changes are a good thing... When did Ford Motor Company drop out of racing? Under high speed/loads oil can/does build up... makes it tuff to flow out the front. Those block were gold to those that knew [bean counters just cut steps, to save money]. Like I inferred in the prior post, 70-M code motors came with performance parts oil pan baffle, extra drain back holes, VC drippers, the rocker posts could be cut & drilled for 7/8 rocker studs, Higher compression heads 61.3 - 64... Oh and Bunkie had been fired and Mr 'I' did not like what was done to 'HIS' stangs lol Yes company politics play a roll in things
  21. I am late to this thread... first congratulations on finding correct dated motor... I have an early Jan 70 motor, so I am always interested in them [most C data skips over that year], So, I have two questions, do the valve cover internally have the boss 302 style drippers? Does the oil pan have what people refer to as the 351c CJ baffles? [lol the came w/70 M code motors first] and does your block still have the extra valley drain oil holes? [someone posted the pic of them early in he thread]. Thanks for anything you can share ...
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