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AzStang71

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Posts posted by AzStang71

  1. On 12/27/2020 at 6:17 PM, Big Red Mach 1 said:

    My car came with factory 8 Track, but the player was DOA. I wanted to keep the look, but integrate Bluetooth. So I bought a board on eBay that can easily power the 4 speakers. I hogged out the guts of the 8 track and installed the board. Now I have my 8 Track look (complete with Pink Floyd DSOM ;) Best album from 1973.), but Bluetooth enabled stereo. Here's some photos of my install, and a short video. The phone can't handle the bass, but it sounds very clean and loud with NO EXTERNAL AMP. This board is the only thing providing the sound. Music is through the phone. I have Android, but this would work with Apple too. 

     

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    OMG 😱 this is so badass that a simple “like” isn’t enough. I bought my weeks ago with a Kenwood deck from like 2002 ish, has aux cord input, but no Bluetooth.  I wish it still had the original radio with 8 track so I could copy you. I think I’ll buy one, non-working, to give it that nostalgic look. What make/model Bluetooth radio did you buy?

    • Thanks 1
  2. 18 hours ago, midlife said:

    That diagram is wrong, in that the main feed into the fuse box should be on the top, not to the left as shown.  The true top, as installed in the car, is on the right side of the diagram.  The fuse for the white/purple line is fuse #6. 

    Ok, so #6 is both turn signals and reverse lights and it turns out previous owner had single pole bulbs in a two pole lamp, causing the short. The original reverse lamps were single pole, but the replacements are two pole. See pic. See how there are two contacts at the bottom? If you put a single pole bulb in here it’ll cause a short and will immediately blow the fuse.
     

    I went through a handful of fuses with the fabricated 20 ft wire with inline fuse so I could figure out where in the line the short was occurring. With the lamp out of the car and completely disconnected, it would immediately pop the fuse. So the lamp was bad, I assumed first, and bought a new one, which also popped the fuse. Then I figured out the difference between the single pole and two pole bulbs and lamps.

    before this project, I knew very little about any of this. I fabricated the 20 ft wire with inline fuse and alligator clips so I could bring power to any point on the car, ie trunk reverse lamps, directly from the battery. I cut the power wire going to the reverse lamps in the trunk, stripped, clipped and connected to battery. The immediate popping of the fuse told me the short was in one of the lamps.

    so, yes, I stumbled through this and did WAY more than was needed, but happy about the knowledge gain from the experience.

    oh, I put the flasher above glovebox back to normal, no more splice into the breaker needed. See pic.

    Thank you for helping me through this. Loving this forum!

     

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  3. 7 minutes ago, midlife said:

    Power for reverse lights comes from the top left fuse.  It goes to the back of the fuse box, then to the NSS/BU switch on the transmission, then back to the back of the fuse box (as a black/red wire) and then out to the tail-light connector. 

    "Top left" is ambiguous, depending on which way you're looking at it. It would be top right on this picture (see attachment). I'll check this fuse first, but then again, wipers work and according to this diagram, reverse lights and wipers are on the same fuse, then again, this car has lots of jury rigging, I can't be sure of anything I haven't verified.  In any case, thank you for the tip, I may have time later today to start chasing the reverse wires!

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  4. 16 hours ago, midlife said:

    Please check your backup lights work; I suspect they will not.  Your wipers also use the white/purple wire, so check them out as well.  That white/purple wire is daisy-chained; when you cut the one line, other items now may not work.

    This white/purple wire (see attachment)? I would imagine daisy chained to a number of things, but this particular branch goes to the signal flasher can, so this branch of the wire is for turn signals only.  Cutting this white/purple line at this point won't impact anything else. This white/purple line is supposed to get power with key in ON position, but it wasn't (still isn't), hence my original issue: turn signals do not operate. I just bought this car, so this is project 1, figuring out just how bad the wiring is. As I look around under dash and under hood, there are cut wires everywhere, and non-stock short cuts, jury rigging, all over the place. I might be served well to purchase a complete wiring harness and redo ALL of the wiring, but that's a major project, and I'd like to get some drive time in before embarking on that. So, in the meantime, I'll tackle each issue as it comes and jury rig if necessary.

    I bet reverse lights are wired to this same white/purple wire and that's why they don't work either. I didn't cause that by cutting this wire, it was already a problem.

    The accessory post on the fuse block gets power when the key goes to ON, so if I can figure out which is the power wire for the reverse lights, I can rewire to the accessory post and then reverse lights will work again!

     

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  5. 15 hours ago, midlife said:

    Please check your backup lights work; I suspect they will not.  Your wipers also use the white/purple wire, so check them out as well.  That white/purple wire is daisy-chained; when you cut the one line, other items now may not work.

    Checked, wipers work still. 

    Everything is working as it should with turn signals, brake lights, parking lights, headlights, hazards, radio, and wipers, both stationary and drive test proven,  thanks to yours and Don C help. Thank you. 

    My reverse lights don't work, though. Reverse lights might be next project to figure out. I'll start with testing the bulbs, then start chasing wires from there.

  6. 34 minutes ago, 73' mach 1 said:

    Wow?!?

    On the other hand, if I was to choose between your factory original center console and the direct fit replacement, and they were the same price, I might pick the direct fit replacement, because it would look brand new. Used factory original vs replica, pros and cons to each. Trying to do a restoration project with factory original parts is cool and all, but exact replicas have that brand new look. I guess it just depends on the buyer. There might be some people that will pay extra for factory original, but you may have to wait a long time for that buyer to come along. On the other hand if you priced yours at half what the replica costs, that would make it sell fast.

  7. Fair market value? Hmmm. Supply and demand would dictate, I would think. 
     

    here is an aftermarket center console direct fit, not original:

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-center-console-assembly-black-1971-1973/p/CON79/

    $630! so, you’d think that an original factory console would be worth more, right? 
     

    I suggest putting it all for sale on eBay. Start high end: like $800 for the center console. Research each part by searching and seeing what it’s going for.  If it doesn’t sell right away, then lower price until it does, depending on how long you want to hold out for top dollar.

  8. See uploaded image, the radio is now wired directly to the battery with a 10A fuse inline. I didn’t replace the radio. Now radio stays on and no shorts are occurring when turning. At this point, everything is working as it should with turn signals, brake lights, parking lights, headlights, hazards, and radio. I learned it’s important to do a drive test too and check all the lights in all combinations of brake, lights on/off, making turns, and need a spotter to tell you if anything isn’t working right. Thank you 🙏 everyone for pointers :). I should delete that YouTube video now,  as it could lead someone else down a dark path. Don’t follow my lead! OMG 😱 wiring nightmare: shorts everywhere. Can hardly believe I got it all working.  The only downside is I had to splice into the breaker above the glovebox to make the turn signal  flasher can have power, resulting in turn signals work even with car off, just like the hazards. The turn signal can not getting power, even with the car running, was the original issue, but i didn’t realize that until much later, after replacing the whole turn signal apparatus, cross wiring, replaced both flashers. By the time I figured out how to splice the turn signal can into the always on breaker, I had cross wired the hazard power and front right, which led me down a dark path....  but I have emerged, I saw the light, went towards it, and phew 😅. Thank you Don C and midlife.

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  9. 14 minutes ago, Don C said:

    Have you had someone look at the front turn signals when you apply the brake, to make sure they don't come on with the brake lights?

    This was happening when I had jumpered the right rear into the right front, but I’m all good now on the turn signals, all 4 work as expected, with and without brakes.

    So this is why to NOT wire them together! When brake is applied, both rear get power and this will cause the right front turn signal to come on too.

     

  10. 10 minutes ago, Don C said:

    Have you had someone look at the front turn signals when you apply the brake, to make sure they don't come on with the brake lights?

    This was happening when I had jumpered the right rear into the right front, but I’m all good now on the turn signals, all 4 work as expected, with and without brakes.

    So this is why to NOT wire them together! When brake is applied, both rear get power and this will cause the right front turn signal to come on too.

     

  11. 17 hours ago, midlife said:

    Well, you surely have a mis-wired mess.  White/red is power for the 4 way flashers.  Orange/white should be orange/blue which is right rear.  As you suggest, the two wires seem to be switched, possibly at the turn signal connector junction. 

    You also didn't address why the input to the flasher can needed to be jumpered to the green/red wire.  The 4 way flashers is now probably getting power from the main flasher can. 

    Ok, I switched the white w/red stripe and the white w/blue stripe and put the orange back to normal and now everything works as it should. What a mess. So the front right turn signal wire (white with blue stripe) got mixed up with the hazard power wire! Yikes 😱. Glad that’s over. Still had to jumper the turn signal flasher into the always on breaker, so now both my hazards and turn signals work with the car on or off.

    drive test revealed that when I turn on the right turn signal and then turn the wheel right, radio shorts out and reboots. It’s an aftermarket kenwood with aux and usb, but not Bluetooth. With lights on and braking, brake lights and head lights and turn signals all work properly thru the turn. I must have another short. Ugh 😫.

    I’m thinking about getting a new stereo that has Bluetooth and wire it directly to the battery, with an in-line fuse.

     

  12. https://youtu.be/G6BaT01PjyY

    Just posted this YouTube video and was wondering if anyone wants to discuss. 
     

    Here’s a pic of the 71:
     

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    So, turn signal repair ended up a little jury rigged, but they work now, all 4. We’re proud of ourselves (my son and I) for making them work. Wondering if anyone else has had such a crazy adventure getting turn signals to work again? What do you think of the front right jumpered into the rear right wire? It works, but is this going to over amp the wire? 

     

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