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DSwan

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    Luck, WI
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  1. Thanks Midlife. I was able to separate the plugs by sticking a small blade screwdriver through the small hole where part of the red tab was and prying the two halves apart. I figured it had to come apart one way or the other, and I think I'll be able to use it again when I put it all back together. It just has to be functional, not look pretty because it'll be tucked under the dash anyway. Now it's on to the rest of the column removal. Thanks again.
  2. I'm removing my steering column on my 73 Mach 1 to get better access to my clutch/brake pedal linkage that needs rebuilding and I can't unplug one of the harnesses. I got the grey one that has a right angle bend to it unplugged, but I can't do the other one that is a simple black one to separate. The two sides aren't fused together, I can get a small flat bar between the two sides and then have sprayed some silicone spray between them, but even with a lot of pressure they won't come apart. There's a red tab on the side that was under the locking tab that seems to slide up and down, but I've pushed it both ways and still no luck, all I'm doing is abusing the hell out of the plug housing. Any one have the trick for this? Thanks.
  3. I'm removing my steering column on my 73 Mach 1 to get better access to my clutch/brake pedal linkage that needs rebuilding and I can't unplug one of the harnesses. I got the grey one that has a right angle bend to it unplugged, but I can't do the other one that is a simple black one to separate. The two sides aren't fused together, I can get a small flat bar between the two sides and then have sprayed some silicone spray between them, but even with a lot of pressure they won't come apart. There's a red tab on the side that was under the locking tab that seems to slide up and down, but I've pushed it both ways and still no luck, all I'm doing is abusing the hell out of the plug housing. Any one have the trick for this? Thanks.
  4. Update to everyone who helped me on these pesky issues: After finding the way to test all of the instrument cluster lights, I was able to get all of the lights working - even the turn signals and bright lights indicator. The problem with them not working when I re-installed the cluster into the dash turned out to be the headlight switch. The gas gauge was another issue. I tried to find a remanufactured gauge, to no avail, so I ended up taking mine apart. I found that there's a very fine wire inside connecting the two terminal posts, and one of them was disconnected, probably when I was removing the nut/washers to replace the circuit board and CVR. I found a window defroster wire repair kit at my local auto parts store and it worked to re-attach the wire, then I added a drop of liquid electrical tape to make sure it didn't come loose again. The dash is back to functional again! Thanks again to everyone.
  5. Thank you. Ordered new light switch because all of a sudden the dome light isn't getting voltage.
  6. Thank you. I did that and it showed me the way. I found the ground terminal first, then the branch running to the lights. Easy to change the polarity of the ones not lit, and I even was able to get the brights indicator and turn signals working while still on the bench. I now have to track and find why I'm not getting power to the positive for the instrument lights at the plug and why my gas gauge isn't working anymore. I thought I may have shorted out the constant voltage regulator so I replaced that again, but still not working. I'm going to check the light switch, but I don't think that would have anything to do with the gas gauge. Always something. Thanks again everyone. I certainly appreciate the help.
  7. I don't see any wires on the cluster once it's removed. It didn't have the tach originally. I thought maybe a person could use a battery to check by touching off on the copper runs in the circuit board?
  8. I'm converting my old burned out dash lights to LED lights and was wondering if there's an easy way to test the cluster before installing it to make sure the light bulbs are working okay. I've already installed it once and found some weren't working, and it's a PITA to go back and forth with it. It would be much easier to do if I could hook up a battery and check it first. I tried the link someone posted some time ago and it doesn't pull the video up anymore. Thanks
  9. DSwan

    Lurching Issue

    Found something that was definitely an issue: When I took the car around the block, not only was it bogging at throttle, it also didn't want to start before I pulled it out of the garage and I had to prime it. I got to thinking last night while trying to fall asleep - while cleaning the carb I was spraying it down and noticed something fall out, it was the small brass piece that goes under the primary squirters, so I had put it back in and put everything back together. When I got up this morning I got an exploded diagram of the carb off the net and lo and behold, there's a small BB type ball that is supposed to be under the brass weight called the pump discharge ball; it keeps the gas from being sucked out of the accelerator pump. Knowing I didn't have anything like that around, and also knowing I would be hard-pressed to find one at an auto parts store, I resorted to using a large magnet on a string to drag the cement apron outside my garage and with God's help I found it! Just put everything back together and will try it out in a little while. I haven't done anything with the vacuum advance yet, but will after I make sure the carb is good to go. I also ordered a calibration kit to really dial it in. Thought you guys would get a kick out of that - I sure felt good about finding that little needle in the haystack! I wish the videos I watched on rebuilding the carb would've mentioned to be careful of that when disassembling. Thanks again everyone for the advice.
  10. DSwan

    Lurching Issue

    It has a deadspot from idle and I have the accelerator linkage set to get the most shot of gas.
  11. DSwan

    Lurching Issue

    Well, I went through the carb (Edelbrock 1406), cleaned everything up, paying special attention to the jets and metering rod setup (didn't seem too bad but cleaned it anyway), reinstalled it and it still has issues. I don't have a calibration kit for it so I did the best I could adjusting the idle mixture screws. I put the timing light on it and now I'm confused even more - the vacuum advance from the distributor is on the manifold port and while watching the light on the damper I pulled it off and it didn't change at all. My understanding is that the manifold port gives you vacuum at idle and the timing port doesn't, so like I said I'm confused. I'm setting initial timing at 16* BTDC because that what the Ford info says, but I know this motor isn't stock so maybe I need to do something else with that. I don't have any info on the motor other than it was supposedly built to boss specs. The other thing is that it does have the Pertronix II ignition, so I'm not suspecting that at this point. Should I start looking at Holley?
  12. DSwan

    Lurching Issue

    Thanks for the info guys. Now I just need to squeeze some car time in between the wife thinking doing stuff on and around the house is more important!
  13. DSwan

    Lurching Issue

    Some guys are young at any age, and you're one of those guys! I'm not that far behind at 65, but in my mind I'm still 18, although my body doesn't appreciate me trying to do the stuff I could do back then!
  14. DSwan

    Lurching Issue

    Not sure which model Pertronix it is, going to look into that today. I'm not sure how long it sat before I bought it, the guy I bought it from had other cars he drove and didn't drive this much at all because he was 74 yrs. and the 4-speed scared him. I'll take your advice and go through the carb, never worked on a Edelbrock before but there's plenty of stuff on the web about them. It's been having this issue since I bought it, but I really couldn't pass it up for that because the price was right. I'll try to update as I find out more. Thanks for your help.
  15. Having a pretty severe issue with my car lurching when I'm just trying to cruise. If I'm under throttle it is much better but it's bad if you're just maintaining at a steady throttle. It's a 351-C that has an Edelbrock 630 carb, 4-speed, stock manifold, Pertronix ignition, new wires, new cap, new plugs, good gas. It's got a slightly lopy cam, not sure specs because it's the way I bought it. Any ideas would be helpful.
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