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Posts posted by DSwan

  1. Update to everyone who helped me on these pesky issues: After finding the way to test all of the instrument cluster lights, I was able to get all of the lights working - even the turn signals and bright lights indicator. The problem with them not working when I re-installed the cluster into the dash turned out to be the headlight switch. The gas gauge was another issue. I tried to find a remanufactured gauge, to no avail, so I ended up taking mine apart. I found that there's a very fine wire inside connecting the two terminal posts, and one of them was disconnected, probably when I was removing the nut/washers to replace the circuit board and CVR. I found a window defroster wire repair kit at my local auto parts store and it worked to re-attach the wire, then I added a drop of liquid electrical tape to make sure it didn't come loose again. The dash is back to functional again!

    Thanks again to everyone.

  2. Thank you. I did that and it showed me the way. I found the ground terminal first, then the branch running to the lights. Easy to change the polarity of the ones not lit, and I even was able to get the brights indicator and turn signals working while still on the bench. I now have to track and find why I'm not getting power to the positive for the instrument lights at the plug and why my gas gauge isn't working anymore. I thought I may have shorted out the constant voltage regulator so I replaced that again, but still not working. I'm going to check the light switch, but I don't think that would have anything to do with the gas gauge. Always something.

    Thanks again everyone. I certainly appreciate the help.

  3. I'm converting my old burned out dash lights to LED lights and was wondering if there's an easy way to test the cluster before installing it to make sure the light bulbs are working okay. I've already installed it once and found some weren't working, and it's a PITA to go back and forth with it. It would be much easier to do if I could hook up a battery and check it first. I tried the link someone posted some time ago and it doesn't pull the video up anymore.


    • Like 1
  4. Found something that was definitely an issue: When I took the car around the block, not only was it bogging at throttle, it also didn't want to start before I pulled it out of the garage and I had to prime it. I got to thinking last night while trying to fall asleep - while cleaning the carb I was spraying it down and noticed something fall out, it was the small brass piece that goes under the primary squirters, so I had put it back in and put everything back together.  When I got up this morning I got an exploded diagram of the carb off the net and lo and behold, there's a small BB type ball that is supposed to be under the brass weight called the pump discharge ball; it keeps the gas from being sucked out of the accelerator pump. Knowing I didn't have anything like that around, and also knowing I would be hard-pressed to find one at an auto parts store, I resorted to using a large magnet on a string to drag the cement apron outside my garage and with God's help I found it! Just put everything back together and will try it out in a little while.

    I haven't done anything with the vacuum advance yet, but will after I make sure the carb is good to go. I also ordered a  calibration kit to really dial it in. Thought you guys would get a kick out of that - I sure felt good about finding that little needle in the haystack! I wish the videos I watched on rebuilding the carb would've mentioned to be careful of that when disassembling. Thanks again everyone for the advice.

    • Like 1
  5. Well, I went through the carb (Edelbrock 1406), cleaned everything up, paying special attention to the jets and metering rod setup (didn't seem too bad but cleaned it anyway), reinstalled it and it still has issues. I don't have a calibration kit for it so I did the best I could adjusting the idle mixture screws. I put the timing light on it and now I'm confused even more - the vacuum advance from the distributor is on the manifold port and while watching the light on the damper I pulled it off and it didn't change at all. My understanding is that the manifold port gives you vacuum at idle and the timing port doesn't, so like I said I'm confused. I'm setting initial timing at 16* BTDC because that what the Ford info says, but I know this motor isn't stock so maybe I need to do something else with that. I don't have any info on the motor other than it was supposedly built to boss specs. The other thing is that it does have the Pertronix II ignition, so I'm not suspecting that at this point.

    Should I start looking at Holley?

  6. Some guys are young at any age, and you're one of those guys! I'm not that far behind at 65, but in my mind I'm still 18, although my body doesn't appreciate me trying to do the stuff I could do back then!

  7. Not sure which model Pertronix it is, going to look into that today. I'm not sure how long it sat before I bought it, the guy I bought it from had other cars he drove and didn't drive this much at all because he was 74 yrs. and the 4-speed scared him. I'll take your advice and go through the carb, never worked on a Edelbrock before but there's plenty of stuff on the web about them. It's been having this issue since I bought it, but I really couldn't pass it up for that because the price was right. I'll try to update as I find out more.

    Thanks for your help.

  8. Having a pretty severe issue with my car lurching when I'm just trying to cruise. If I'm under throttle it is much better but it's bad if you're just maintaining at a steady throttle. It's a 351-C that has an Edelbrock 630 carb, 4-speed, stock manifold, Pertronix ignition, new wires, new cap, new plugs, good gas. It's got a slightly lopy cam, not sure specs because it's the way I bought it. Any ideas would be helpful.

  9. I also live in the country and besides our house we have a camper at a seasonal site. Over my many years of dealing with the vermin issue, I've used sticky traps (don't like because they don't kill the mice immediately and they drag the traps around), snap traps with peanut butter, mouse hotels that let them in but not out (don't like for the same reason as the sticky traps), and my favorite - a 5-gallon pail with a rod thru the top lip supporting a plastic jar smeared with peanut butter and a ramp to get up to it. I put an anti-freeze/water solution in the pail so the dead critters don't stink so bad if I don't get to them. Very effective and it keeps killing mice without having to reset it like most traps. I still use snap traps with peanut butter as they are also quite effective. Also agree with an earlier poster - don't leave your doors open! Last fall I had a gopher find it's way in and it took several days before he decided to leave one day when I coaxed him out with a trail of peanuts and an open door.

    Mouse trap.jpg

    • Like 2
  10. Hi everyone! 

    Just signed in today to hopefully find answers as well as networking with other Mustang owners. I bought a 73 Mach 1 last summer and am new to Fords, as I've always had either GM or Mopar cars in the past (back when they were available and cheap!). It's a Q code 351C with top loader 4-spd and 9" conventional rear. It needs some minor things to make it mine. 


    Mach 1.jpg

  11. Hi, I'm looking for help on where to put the tire pressure and emissions stickers on my 73 Mach 1, built at the Dearborn plant. I've tried to find the answers by looking at for sale cars, but they vary. I've seen the tire pressure sticker on the passenger side door and driver's side door. I've seen the emission sticker on the cowl (passenger side), and on the shock towers. Any help would be appreciated.

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